G-Teched my 1.6TD - Baseline Runs - page 7 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #90 by fspGTD on 29 Jun, 2005 09:49
• Great looking powdercoat!
  
  How was the #4 oil squirter broken?  Was the tube broken off shooting oil the wrong way, or was it not shooting oil at all?  That is a very interesting find...
• #91 by 935racer on 29 Jun, 2005 11:50
• I have no idea if the squirter was working or not. I remember when I was pullign the block apart I was like holy *** #4 is done, than I pulled the oil squirters out and I was like oh #4 oil squirter is toast, the tube pointing towards the piston was broken right off. I just got the block back fromt he machine shop from hot tanking so I am gonna go bead blast it now and get it all prepped for powdercoating.
• #92 by fspGTD on 29 Jun, 2005 12:28
• Quote from: "935racer"

  the tube pointing towards the piston was broken right off.

  
  
  :shock:  Now I wonder how that could happen!  Someone must have been inside the engine before I suppose?
• #93 by 935racer on 29 Jun, 2005 12:49
• Well right before I sold the engine to mark I put a new oil pump in it and replaced the intermediate shaft races, so I had looked at the bottom end before, but it doesn;t appear to have ever been rebuilt before. The thing is I cleaned the pan out good when I sold the engine to mark, and when I ripped apart the engien I found that little tube for the squirter in the oil, so I was wondering if somehow the extreme heat busted the little bugger off. I dont; see hoe it could be hot enough for that but who knows man. I am gonna get mark to take some pictures of the busted oil squirter, I ordered the new ones and they are supposed to be here tomorrow. Now back to prepping marks block for powdercoating
• #94 by andy2 on 29 Jun, 2005 17:22
• I've had my 1.9 twin turbo (k14,HX30) running for a couple of weeks now and as I got her broke in I would up the boost a little and at 28-29 psi and I havn't uped the fuel any from 100% more than stock and I'am having problems with my steel HG and I'm using 12.9 grade capsrews to hold it together at first I toruqed them to 70 ft-lbs and after having coolant blow out of my resivor I cranked them down to 90 ft-lbs and Its holding up alot better but I still think its not 100% as well as this there was a little oil in the coolant and I also believe that the crankcase was being pressurized too.So you can see
  what possible issues there is to come up against. I do believe that 25-26 psi is a comfortable safe max for this setup.Mine can hold 29 psi through a couple of gears but can not sustain it for long enough, thats before the re torqued head :roll: .I'm going to push my beast a bit more each day and see if she holds,If not I'll have to pull it apart and do somthing about it.
  
  My old 1.6TD on 24 psi put out aprox 120-125 crank HP (G-teched)
  So far this 1.9TD engine feels like 130-135 with more to come :wink:
• #95 by QuickTD on 29 Jun, 2005 18:18
• Quote

  I've had my 1.9 twin turbo (k14,HX30) running for a couple of weeks now

  
  
  The cats outta the bag now Andy...
• #96 by malone on 30 Jun, 2005 01:15
• Quote from: "andy2"

  I'am having problems with my steel HG
  <snip>
  My old 1.6TD on 24 psi put out aprox 120-125 crank HP (G-teched)
  So far this 1.9TD engine feels like 130-135 with more to come :wink:

  
  
  Thanks for sharing your experience. Did you modify your 1.6TD and 1.9TD head? Do you have head studs? Do you think you should have done an o-ring?
  
  How do you figure crank HP via G-Tech numbers? G-Tech reports net horsepower, which is lower than wheel and crank HP. What formula did you use to come up with crank HP?
  
  I forgot to mention that my rods will be shot-peened. It is surprisingly inexpensive so it will be nice to get them done before the block goes back together.
• #97 by malone on 30 Jun, 2005 01:15
• Oh, andy2, if you could post pictures of your twin turbo install that would be great. I'd love to see it.
• #98 by malone on 30 Jun, 2005 01:21
• Here are a couple pictures of the oil squirters. On the right is #4:
  
  
  Close-up of #4:
  
  
  My 1.6TD block after being hot-tanked. The factory green paint was stripped away:
  
  
  
  
  Sand blasting:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Giving it a baby shower (chemical cleaner, actually):
  
  
  Powder coating:
  
  
  
  
  After 30 minutes in the oven:
  
  
  I think it looks great so far There are a few splotches on the block so a second layer of powdercoat will be applied. Then it finally will go to a machinist for cylinder boring, o-ringing, etc.
• #99 by andy2 on 30 Jun, 2005 14:05
• When Giles and I G-teched the 1.6 powered jetta It weighed around the same as Brysons 91-92 jetta,mine is a 91 jetta also.We just used his weight as a pretty close estimate.And I got 110 hp readings from the G-tech (Wheel hp).I've driven a couple chiped TDI's (110-120hp I think) and my old beast would just out do them.
  
  I'm sorry to say I have no pics ,Now with the engine in the car its pretty well hid and can not be seen well with all the plumling etc.If I have to pull the engine for o-ringing I will do my best to get some pics.
  
  I don't want to Hijack this great thread and I'm probably to lazy to start one but Bruce AKA QuickTD played a huge role in this project.He baiscally walked my dad(master fabricator) and I through this project via PM's,Which worked quite well I should add.Bruce has not yet seen the finished project either,So at the next area GTG we will have some pics regardless I'm sure.
  
  We figured the Steel HG would hold with some good bolts and It still might be ok.I will report on how its holding up.
• #100 by 935racer on 30 Jun, 2005 14:11
• The chemical cleaner is actually a primer for the powder coat process. I just pulled the block out of the oven and damn, its nice! I'll put another coat on it today and and that should clean it up a bunch more. Definately the most pimpin 1.6 block around.
• #101 by malone on 30 Jun, 2005 14:31
• Sweet, Dave.
  
  I seem to have trouble calling High Perf Engines while at work. Is it cool if you call them and ask about bores & o-ringing? Or just find out if they'll be open this Saturday morning/afternoon and I'll take the block & pistons there. Thanks
  
  

  Quote from: "andy2"

  I got 110 hp readings from the G-tech (Wheel hp).I've driven a couple chiped TDI's (110-120hp I think) and my old beast would just out do them.

  
  
  That must've been a fun fabrication project. If I recall correctly the official WHP figure by VW for a 2.0 16 valve is 108whp. It's rated at 134bhp (crank). With my G-Tech a stock 2.0 16v reported between 95 and 100nhp (net or G-Tech HP), and then 108 - 110nhp with a 91 octane chip, intake, and exhaust upgrade.
  
  If you're getting 110nhp and the vehicle data is accurate, you probably have at least 135bhp.
  
  Anyway, 110nhp in a light car will likely outrun a chipped AND nozzled TDI (120 - 130nhp), or at least keep up with it, which is quite impressive.
• #102 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 02 Jul, 2005 17:16
• Hi Malone
  I've just read your sad thread (I've been absent for a little while; although probably not missed! )
  Could I just make a few diagnoses?
  1. Looking at the picture of #4 piston and gasket it doesnt look like it was definitely blown at the point ringed by Jake... The oily smearing could have happened whilst lifting the head.... I can see the same grey 'seal' underneath the smear that's around the rest of the gasket...
  
  2. You say you lost some water? Well as pointed out by someone water has a far greater SHC than pure anti F... About twice infact IIRC...BUT with a boiling point of 100 deg C at atmospheric and maybe 120deg C or so at 14.5lb/sqin compared with 200 deg ballpark for pure AF; A sustained push of the car soon gets the water up to its boiling point. So a coolant mixture is a compromise in SHC's and BP's
  [I used to run all my gasser VWs on about 1% glycol no problem]
  When I first got into diesels about 4 years ago I happened across an old boy who had spent a lot of time on these 1.6 TDs and he said the anti f  mixture was almost essential as their operating temperature was too high for water when under load and you will push water out through the filler cap.
  3. As you water was undoubtably boiling and evidently #4 bore has the least coolant around it then it was probably not helped by 'cavitation'.
  
  4. Looking at the crown of the piston I see it is ultra clean AND dry with a heat 'tidemark' in the middle where at the speed you were going it was getting  'ucking  hot' due to an  (unfortunately) perfect combustion.
  This may well have been the cause of the 'well fitted' piston to smear against the bore.
  
  5. Assuming you didn't have ring damage; could your blow by have been caused by a combination of ring gap allignment (On another site I've thrashed this out about ring rotation and the possible benefits of pin locators) and with your super boost maybe the doubling or so of peak pressures at TDC creating the high blowby?
  
  Anyway that's my spouting over... I await the wolverines making a meal of me ;o)
  
  Whilst I've got peoples attention ...
  What's the usual causes of  individual hydraulic lifter weakness after 20000 miles?
  
  Mark the Miser UK
  
  
  

  Quote from: "malone"

  Yeah, it was definitely a blow-by.
  
  Bad news: scored cylinder walls.
  
  Good news: the head gasket is in one piece :roll:
  
  
  
  
  
  The following are pictures of the worst cylinder:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The head just sitting in the back of the Golf:
  
  
  
  
  Live & learn.
  
  A few options to get the car running again:
  
  1) Bore the block to get rid of the scores. Can run 79.5mm (1.9L) pistons. A 3mm bore should clear the damage well. New bearings, new gaskets. I'm probably looking at $3,300 CAD for all new parts including a head rebuild w/ 3-angle valve job. It will become a pratically new engine with good performance potential. I won't be doing the complete rebuild labour myself as I'm not proficient enough for that task.
  
  2) Get an used 1.6TD longblock with pump & turbo for $1,000 CAD. It has 180,000km and comes with warranty. I can sell the pump and turbo so in the end it may cost me roughly $500 CAD. I should ask if their warranty lasts more than 3 days
  
  I'm currently exploring other options.
  
  Option #1 is appealing at first, but I'm not in the best financial position for that right now, and it's discouraged by the fact that I can import a low km euro PD130 or PD150 complete longlock for the same price delivered to my door. The PD has better fuel economy (for the power) and more power potential. On the other hand, if I ever switch to a PD, I might be bothered by the fact that all the time & money spent on the 1.6TD swap has gone down the toilet in just 3 days. I'll be happier to have a 1.6TD again and get back on the road soon. Further, I need to work on my Jetta TDI project.
• #103 by malone on 03 Jul, 2005 19:01
• Thanks for your input, Mark. I don't see this as a sad thread; I'm happy that we have the chance to rebuild my TD motor - this is what I've been wanting for a while. FYI that doean't mean I blew the original 200k km motor on purpose :oops:   :lol:
  
  The engine problem also made me more aware (i.e. pushing the engine without a EGT gauge isn't the brightest idea) so I'll be more careful this time.
• #104 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 04 Jul, 2005 00:35
• Quote from: "malone"

  Thanks for your input, Mark. I don't see this as a sad thread; I'm happy that we have the chance to rebuild my TD motor - this is what I've been wanting for a while. FYI that doean't mean I blew the original 200k km motor on purpose :oops:   :lol:

  
  
  Ha,
  I get sad when I wear a tyre [tire]? out :shock: