-
#105
by
malone
on 07 Jul, 2005 15:05
-
Ha,
I get sad when I wear a tyre [tire]? out :shock:
That just reminded me; the Golf's front tires are almost bald
. I'm thinking of replacing the current steelies with new wheels; 15x6.5" or 15x7.0" Rota Slipstreams, which are somewhere from 11 to 13 pounds each (without tire). Low price, too. Winter tires will go on the steelies later for cold season.
O-ringing is a little more difficult to find than I thought. Dave went to BD Power today (
www.dieselperformance.com) and they said hardly anyone has o-rings small enough for a 1.6TD block because the bores are unusually small. A couple other machinists we contacted also do not have the proper size o-rings.
It seems that this may be more hassle than it's worth. The metal 1.9L headgasket and Raceware headstuds should be fine with 26-30 PSI of boost.
So now the block is going back to the machinist today or tomorrow to get the bores, etc. done ASAP. Hopefully it'll be done by Friday so Dave can start reassembling the block this weekend.
Stiffer HD valve springs are being ordered @ Techtonics Tuning for the 1.9L head.
-
#106
by
Josh
on 19 Jul, 2005 21:44
-
Hey all,
Doesn't a hydraulic head consume a significant percentage of power? As I recall, most folks interested in performance TD tuning go for a mechanical head.
But I've not been around for a while; has this idea been refuted?
Thanks,
-Josh
-
#107
by
malone
on 07 Aug, 2005 18:06
-
-
#108
by
fspGTD
on 11 Aug, 2005 09:12
-
Lookin' good mark! Can't wait to see how this turns out...
PS - You might be thinking about using those H-beam rods like from the 240 hp caddy about now, eh? :wink:
-
#109
by
malone
on 11 Aug, 2005 21:43
-
Lookin' good mark! Can't wait to see how this turns out...
PS - You might be thinking about using those H-beam rods like from the 240 hp caddy about now, eh? :wink:
Thanks and yes I'm tempted to buy upgraded rods and have the pistons ceramic coated, and so on, but the budget and time constraints won't allow them. Anyway I'll be happy to have the peak power/weight ratio of a VR6 (approx. 140whp in my case).
It's said that OEM 1.6TD rods will break at above 290lb-ft. My OEM rods are shot-peened but I'm not exactly sure how much of a difference it makes. Raceware con rod bolt/nut kit included. If I can make 250lb-ft @ wheels @ 4,250 RPM, then 200whp is achieved and I'll be very surprised! Honestly though, as long as it's fun to drive and gets me somewhere, I'll be happy
-
#110
by
malone
on 11 Aug, 2005 21:47
-
I have a custom air/water intercooler. It was originally for my 1.9L TDI engine that I recently sold:
I may choose the air/water instead of the aforementioned air/air FMIC by Precision Turbo & Engines. The air/water intercooler has the following advantages:
1) Far easier IC plumbing from turbo to intake manifold, composed of two straight steel pipes and some silicone connectors. Less fabrication work means my Golf will be back on the road sooner.
2) Stealth factor.
3) Shorter plumbing and smaller intercooler core = significantly less internal volume = slightly faster pressure/boost response.
4) Possibly more efficient cooling than a FMIC for short power bursts, which is typical of most people's (incl mine) driving style. Includes 1/4 mile drag racing, which ice-loading may be useful.
If heat soak is ever an issue, i.e. during a long and hard highway race (I rarely do this), simply adding more water or installing a larger radiator will reduce that. In other words, this is a more scalable system than a FMIC.
Today I just rolled over 400,000km in my girlfriend's 1984 Volvo, which still runs great:
-
#111
by
malone
on 11 Aug, 2005 21:48
-
Here's a rather crude photoshop of the charge air path:
-
#112
by
malone
on 11 Aug, 2005 21:52
-
In case I forgot to mention, I also have the SDI intake manifold pictured above.
A TDIClub.com member with the same SDI intake reported having a boost leak in the upper black portion (plastic) at 18 PSI. Note the blue sealant on the sides of the black intake in the previous post.
So this will likely be a temporary intake. Four mandrel bent metal runners & a pressure box (cylinder) may replace the plastic upper portion once I'm ready to turn up the boost. Velocity stacks in the pressure box would be nice, too.
-
#113
by
vwmike
on 12 Aug, 2005 17:49
-
So, what exactly is the difference between the PD 100, PD 130, and the PD 150?
-
#114
by
Maarten
on 13 Aug, 2005 01:55
-
Turbo, injectors, ECU and with the PD150 strenghtened rods and pistons.
Do I read correctly that you use the 1.9 head (from a AAZ engine or?) on the 1.6? I thought a 1.6 head has better proportioned exhasut valves compared to the 1.9?
-
#115
by
QuickTD
on 13 Aug, 2005 06:49
-
TDIClub.com member with the same SDI intake reported having a boost leak in the upper black portion (plastic) at 18 PSI. Note the blue sealant on the sides of the black intake in the previous post.
I helped finish the installation of Daves (TDImeister's) SDI manifold. The boost leak actually turned out to be at the junction between the aluminum part of the manifold and the head. The SDI manifold interfered slightly with the TDI exhaust manifold. Because of this the manifold was not pulled in tight against the head and there was a leak at the manifold gasket. The plastic part of the manifold did not actually leak. The blue silicone was put on there to assist in finding the original leak. With the manifold "clearanced" a bit the problem was solved.
I'm not sure how much boost the SDI manifold would withstand. Although it didn't leak in Daves car, having seen it, I don't think I would trust it with more than 25 psi. Good intercooling would likely be instrumental in helping the plastic manifold survive.
-
#116
by
fspGTD
on 13 Aug, 2005 09:08
-
Those long runners should help get a big turbo up and going sooner, but I don't think the lower portion of that manifold will fit in a 1.6lTD, with the stock turbo position being so high and close to the head. I hope you can make it work!
-
#117
by
malone
on 13 Aug, 2005 17:39
-
-
#118
by
dubCanuck1
on 13 Aug, 2005 21:22
-
Why did you have to modify the firewall? Were you using the VNT-15 or something different? The reason I ask is because I'm doing the ALH swap into my 89 Golf and will be clocking the turbo up like yours was. I'll be using the stock turbo that comes with the engine (might update to the VNT-17 later).
I'm hoping to not have to do that to mine if possible.
-
#119
by
935racer
on 14 Aug, 2005 12:24
-
The pd 130 and 150 are the same except for ecu and turbo. I will might have to mount marks turbo upside down to clear the intake manifold. I am litereally int he middle of port matching and polishing the intake to the head, and the exhaust manifold as well. The actual port design on the 1.9 head is a lot better and the intake side is much larger. However the exhaust on the 1.9 almost seems smaller, by like a mm. But to match the exhaust maniold I'll be taking that much out anyways. The head will be going to the machine shop tomorrow to get the valve seats ground and a couple other goodies. Hopefully it wqill be back at the shop here by wednesday or so and than I can reassemble the head with the heavy duty valve springs and race ware headstuds and 1.9 metal head gasket. Than A custom grind a colt cams and I'll throw the pump on and all the other powdercoated goodies and it will be rockin. Especially witht he 4 puck cluytch and 6 pound flywheel!
