i love people who say you should drive your car right away... its pretty much just an emissions gimmick.
of course the main reason that the car is heating up faster is because of the added friction from not having enough circulating oil lube the motor... i don't know if i really like that idea...
Back in the 70's I spent a lot of weekends crewing with friends fooling with stock car racing (not exactly NASCAR). Our engines were small block Chevy's and the piston of choice was the TRW forging. That piston used an alloy that expanded a lot, we'd typically use 6 thou to 7 thou clearance -- less was better -- you'd support the top ring better and make more horsepower longer -- but going tighter made warm up real critical...if you gave a cold engine too much fuel the piston would expand while the block was still cold which would cause the skirts to skuff/collapse ...time to rebuild. These little diesels have amazingly tight piston clearance ... I keep the rev's up for oil flow but keep the engine very lightly loaded to keep the heating rate slow enough so the block has a chance to catch up until the engine can establish normal running clearances. I'm careful to do this in NC where it doesn't really get very cold ... but I suspect it's even more important where many of you live ... a hot piston in a cold bore with 1 thou of design clearance is a bad idea. I don't just let it idle for the reasons given above by others but I'm sure careful to keep the fuel down until I have normal temperatures and normal clearances. Just my 2 cents don't really have any ultra cold experience.
1500 watts should suffice, and not even make my 3000 watt inverter flinch.
Quote 1500 watts should suffice, and not even make my 3000 watt inverter flinch. If you're going to run this thing from a 12v battery, why not use a 12v heating element? That way you get rid of the losses/inefficiencies of the inverter. Duraterm glow plugs would make a good heater, VW uses them immersed in coolant in the TDI as supplimental heat, you can too. Half a dozen glow plugs would pull the same current as the 1500watt heater (~100-125amps) and require a bunch less wiring.
Why not have the glow plugs cycle on and off to increase their life? Or hook them up with a pump so that the cold oil keeps the glow plugs cooler
Armed with this alarming information, I've built a little test oil heater. It's very simple, just a regular block heater welded into a 1.5" hole in the back of the oil pan. I filled the pan with the appropriate amount of oil and plugged it in.
I use a magnetic oil pan heater that pops onto the bottom of the pan.
I bought a thirty dollar Kat's oilpan warmer several years ago, and it's kept my oil warm ever since. Cheap, easy to install, and excellent quality. Great idea, though.