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#15
by
theman53
on 17 Jun, 2014 16:21
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I need the battery the start the engine, run the circulation pump for the intercooler ice water, electric fuel pump, and to provide voltage to the gauges. Before a run starts, and after it is complete, I also want to run the electric radiator fan.
I will have a look at the G60 conversion possibilities.
Thank you,
Steve.
FWIW I had a bad alt for about a week and didn't know it as I do not have a volt gauge in car and the red light didn't work. I drove it over 450 miles before realizing the cranking was getting slow. I ran the heater, 100w H4 lights, and everything as normal *stock electric rad fan* as I didn't know. If you put it on a charger between runs and keep it topped up you will never need that alt. is what I am getting at. The gauges and fuel cut off work down to about 7v, so you can kill that battery before it wouldn't run the truck. And since we don't really have ignition draw it would take many hours of operation even with a fan to get there, you should be done in less than 4 minutes
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#16
by
Renax
on 18 Jun, 2014 04:03
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Well, depends much of the size battery, but if every pound counts i would have no Alt and a really small battery. Just start it with jumper cables and then don't kill it.
Check how much power you really need, its really not much!
To have a battery powerful enaugh for a several cold starts in a row would be a waste here?
Sent from my cheapchinaphone using Tapatalk
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#17
by
Gizmoman
on 18 Jun, 2014 06:01
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Nothing in the article listed says anything about Poly V belts which I have read are more efficient than toothed belts.
Also what advantage do you think you gained by installing ball bearings on the IM shaft? 1/4 of a hp?
Wasn't looking for HP gains really, just thought I'd share the concept.
I agree with libby's idea of no IM shaft at all - just an idler sprocket with bearings inside. If a guy machined a new steel "cap" with a stub shaft that fit tight into the block (sleeve bearing removed), the two bolts that hold the cap on would be sufficient.
Everything was turned on a lathe. The shaft is really quite soft - cast iron IIRC.
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#18
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 18 Jun, 2014 06:49
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..... The gauges and fuel cut off work down to about 7v, ...........
But they will not be accurate. They will read much lower than actual.
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#19
by
Jetmugg
on 18 Jun, 2014 09:29
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Shedding battery weight is not a goal. At Bonneville, additional weight does not hurt, and often helps. Power output and aero drag are the biggest factors. Getting the truck lower, and delivering as much HP to the wheels are the fundamental goals.
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#20
by
RabbitJockey
on 18 Jun, 2014 11:36
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..... The gauges and fuel cut off work down to about 7v, ...........
But they will not be accurate. They will read much lower than actual.
right, the voltage regulator for the guages brings voltage to 10 volts, so sometime before the battery goes below 10 volts the gauges will no longer read accurately. this is on the factory cluster, aftermarket could be totally different.
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#21
by
theman53
on 18 Jun, 2014 13:47
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I was just saying that I did a weeks worth of starts and drove almost 500 miles before I noticed hard starting. I am implying that he would be fine with ditching the alt and charging between runs. He has all autometer sport comp iirc and do not know what they would do at those volts for sure. Both my same autometer and stock gauges seemed to keep going relatively to each other, but I have no clue as to what voltage I dropped down to.
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#22
by
libbydiesel
on 18 Jun, 2014 21:51
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Shedding battery weight is not a goal. At Bonneville, additional weight does not hurt, and often helps. Power output and aero drag are the biggest factors. Getting the truck lower, and delivering as much HP to the wheels are the fundamental goals.
I understand that aero drag and power output are much more significant, but additional weight increases rolling resistance. How can that help?
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#23
by
Jetmugg
on 19 Jun, 2014 06:49
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The salt is traction limited. For higher powered and faster cars, they have problems staying "hooked up". More downforce is needed when traction suffers. Aero downforce means much more drag than static downforce (weight). A lot of Bonneville cars intentionally add weight to maintain traction. Fast roadsters (like 32 Fords and such) can weigh as much as 6 or 7 thousand pounds in race trim. 1/2" thick steel plates built into the floor pan, lead filled cage tubes, water ballast are all common techniques.
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#24
by
libbydiesel
on 19 Jun, 2014 07:32
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That makes sense. Thanks.
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#25
by
idi-tracker
on 19 Jun, 2014 19:21
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I would also look at trying to loose some rotational weight, for every 1-lb of rotating weight you can shed its worth the equivalent of 7-lbs of standing weight. So if you have a wheel/tire combo that is 30-lbs as a set, and manage to get it down to 25-lbs as a set, you basically lost 35-lbs of weight that you need to get in motion, and keep it there. The drysump system is also a good place to pick up some horse power & reliability. But you must be careful of some issues that could poke up, if you are able to pull any vacuum in the crankcase, you could pull the oil away from the wrist pins (so get them DLC coated just to be safe), also some seals are not drysump friendly. They will actually pull off of the shaft they seal against and leak, or cause dirt to pass. (if you are able to get a crankcase vacuum, normally with a 3 stage its hard to get crankcase vacuum, but you may see a slight amount since the area you are pulling from is a small crankcase area)
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#26
by
Jetmugg
on 20 Jun, 2014 05:47
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I am definitely keeping my eyes open for dry sump goodies for next season. For Speed Week in August, I'll be using the larger oil pan, windage tray, and extended pickup tube. A reliable supply of oil, added capacity, and more ground clearance are the big benefits.
With respect to roaring weight, that's another area where more weight is often used to add stability (inertial stability). Many Bonneville wheels use solid steel centers welded to steel rims. Bonneville racing tires are also very heavy, and are regularly 8, or even 10 ply.
Land Speed Racing is not the same as drag racing. The long course at B-ville is 5 miles long, and traction is a limiting factor.
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#27
by
idi-tracker
on 20 Jun, 2014 14:45
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#28
by
Gizmoman
on 20 Jun, 2014 16:02
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I am definitely keeping my eyes open for dry sump goodies for next season. For Speed Week in August, I'll be using the larger oil pan, windage tray, and extended pickup tube. A reliable supply of oil, added capacity, and more ground clearance are the big benefits.
With respect to roaring weight, that's another area where more weight is often used to add stability (inertial stability). Many Bonneville wheels use solid steel centers welded to steel rims. Bonneville racing tires are also very heavy, and are regularly 8, or even 10 ply.
Land Speed Racing is not the same as drag racing. The long course at B-ville is 5 miles long, and traction is a limiting factor.
Really appreciate your detailed explanations - Interesting stuff
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#29
by
Jetmugg
on 20 Jun, 2014 18:15
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I've used a bunch of Gary's stuff.. http://www.drysump.com/Volkswagon.htm
Thanks.
I've looked through his website, but still have a lot to learn about what pump and mounting setup will work for my application. Are you running a dry sump setup on any VW 4-bangers?
Steve