Franken-TD for an '84 Coupe: Like i need another hole in my build thread

[samuraij]

Thanks for the kind words. I'm having a hard time not being sick of the whole thing. Limits my ability to go get dirty in the hot sun.

The other thought i had was an intake air temperature sensor, which for now could go in the coupler since it's already tapped, and in the future i could add it to the intake manifold.

not important though. I'll leave the gauge in the cluster and just fasten it with some plastic or fiber washers to insulate it from the pads on the flex circuit. for now.

I feel the pain! I've been poking away at mine since March now.  I WANT IT DONE!

[TimpanogosSlim]

Thanks for the kind words. I'm having a hard time not being sick of the whole thing. Limits my ability to go get dirty in the hot sun.

The other thought i had was an intake air temperature sensor, which for now could go in the coupler since it's already tapped, and in the future i could add it to the intake manifold.

not important though. I'll leave the gauge in the cluster and just fasten it with some plastic or fiber washers to insulate it from the pads on the flex circuit. for now.

I feel the pain! I've been poking away at mine since March now.  I WANT IT DONE!

Yeah. And some of my friends are done with their (Very different) projects. One of 'em has a real mean looking nissan s12 now. so 80's it hurts.

[TimpanogosSlim]

In answer to your VDO gauge question, I believe you can find an oil temp sender that will work. You need to know the gauge sweep in degrees (90, 270, etc) and you need to know the temp your gauge has as a max. Find a sending unit that fits your specs and it *should* work.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/vdo-gauges/department/gauges-accessories/part-type/gauge-sending-units/gauge-type-application/oil-temperature?N=400267%2B4294951097%2B4294927084%2B4294944919

The spare temperature gauge is a 120c 90 degree sweep, so it looks like 323-095 will likely work as an oil temperature gauge. I'll have to puzzle a bit over where i could plumb it in. Possibly tee off of the turbo oil feed. it's how that is tricky.

Thanks for the tip.

[libbydiesel]

My #1 power tool for finishing projects is my ipod equipped with an audiobook.  It's like watching a movie inside my head and when the 'movie' is over I look around and am always amazed at what the my 'other self' got done in the mean time. 

[TimpanogosSlim]

Doing some additional work today.

Have bought the wrong size hose for my oil cooler twice now. Gates LOL 3/8 doesn't begin to fit, 1/2 is loose enough that i question whether i can seal it with a clamp. I guess i go back and enquire as to a 5/16?

Turbo hot pipe is finalized.

Broke off a brass nipple in the 2nd sensor port i added to my oil filter housing. I guess we have settled the question of whether the aluminum is strong enough for hand-tapped 1/8 npt?

Discovered a nugget of joy in the fuse panel while pulling EGT and boost through the firewall:



Seriously, Russ? Seriously? I know Dayton didn't do that.

That yellow wire goes through a firewall grommet, across the engine side of the firewall to the passenger side, and is loosely draped across the diesel hard lines on it's way back to the lift pump.

Unfused.

[TimpanogosSlim]

Here's my charge piping:



Note the brass dingus poking down from the coupler - this is where i can put a watermeth nozzle. easy peasy.

In other news, under close examination the cluster that came in the car brings to mind the phrase "hacked by a blind woodsman". I also note that the title clearly states "vehicle is exempt from odometer requirements" suggesting that this isn't even the original cluster and the mileage on it is meaningless. I think I'll install the gasser cluster w/ it's modified tach and it's pristine speedo.

[samuraij]

Where did you get that small collar for the water/meth injection? I have seen larger stainless ones and such, but I'm curious as to what you used. 

[TimpanogosSlim]

It's sold on ebay as a coolant temperature adapter. I got the one specified for 36mm radiator hose, fits perfect with the 35mm 45 degree hoses. has a 1/8 NPT port. And a screw for a ground wire.

They come in a variety of sizes, but i don't see them as big as the 2" inlet on my race pipe.

Like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321376279452

The hose clamps that come with it are the worst junque. The worm gear skips when you start to get tight. i threw them away.

[libbydiesel]

You could fairly easily cut that intake volume in half without negatively affecting flow by having your intake connection do a quick 90 bend toward the back.

[TimpanogosSlim]

You could fairly easily cut that intake volume in half without negatively affecting flow by having your intake connection do a quick 90 bend toward the back.

Agreed. But after cutting the race pipe to a nub I'd have to have it turned again to put a bead on it for the silicone, and at this length i don't think it's a big deal right now.

I'd probably get charged a full hour for machining. That's at least $65 out here.

[samuraij]

It's sold on ebay as a coolant temperature adapter. I got the one specified for 36mm radiator hose, fits perfect with the 35mm 45 degree hoses. has a 1/8 NPT port. And a screw for a ground wire.

They come in a variety of sizes, but i don't see them as big as the 2" inlet on my race pipe.

Like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321376279452

The hose clamps that come with it are the worst junque. The worm gear skips when you start to get tight. i threw them away.

Thank you. Aviation clamps FTW! 

[TimpanogosSlim]

and anyway, aren't 90 degree turns frowned on in charge piping?

admittedly my friend with a big turbo 1Z in his caddy has less going on in that path.

[TimpanogosSlim]

Further excuses:

1: I'm planning ahead, eventually I'll find an intercooler configuration that will work, and at that point a few inches here and there are nothing compared to the jog to a front mount IC.

2: If i wanted to go all out I'd cram a water-to-air right behind the intake manifold and then pay a fabricator to give me a smooth 180 degree into the PD130 manifold.

3: When i add watermeth injection, it will need that 20 inches or so in order to absorb heat, cool the intake, and increase the oxygen density in the combustion changer. It's said that during WWII the nazis had already mastered the art of direct injection, but never got anywhere with water injection on forced induction aircraft engines because they assumed direct injection was best. Our guys, on the other hand, were doing 83psi with multiple superchargers + watermeth injection.

4: I am lazy.

5: I am running out of excuses.

[libbydiesel]

Ah, I didn't know you didn't make it yourself.  As far as beading goes I do my own.







I don't think two reduced radius 90° turns are any worse than your u-bend.  I'd certainly have more concern about intake volume than a couple 90° turns.  You could still run a silicone 90° right on the race pipe and then another to go toward the turbo.  Anyway, what you have will work and the additional lag probably won't be particularly noticeable.  Carry on.

[Diesel_Zuk]

Is that bead tool homemade? I see it's a pair of crapsman vise grips.