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#105 by TimpanogosSlim on 18 Mar, 2014 06:49
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But also not true.A turbo can be mounted at the oil level. The drain should feed above the oil level in the sump to avoid hydraulic back-pressure, but because the oil is pressure fed, the return can flow slightly uphill. If the return line is too large in diameter, the crankcase pressure might overcome the feed pressure.
ah, that is clever.
I was referring to the mbc
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#106 by Alcaid on 18 Mar, 2014 07:07
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From that last picture drain looks OK, I'd say run it and see. Yes there is an o-ring and a piston ring sealing the oil from the compressor housing but piston ring will leak with too high oil pressure so check for oil on compressor wheel after first test runs.
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#107 by RabbitJockey on 23 Mar, 2014 12:04
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u drive it yet?
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#108 by 745 turbogreasel on 23 Mar, 2014 13:47
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In all honesty, I think the 5/8 ID hose (and matching port in the pan) will get-er-done.
if you find you do have issues, its an easy experiment with some 5/8 clear tube and a camera. -
#109 by Gizmoman on 23 Mar, 2014 17:07
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Thanks for checkin in. No, I spent the weekend fabing up an intake canister out of 16 ga for a huge filter and finishing the WAIC mount. I'm still waiting for some silicone elbows from Ebay before I can run piping. As usual, I'll post plenty of pics as soon as I have something worth showing.
As for the clear drain hose - good thought, I also thought the same and found some high temp stuff at McMaster - too spendy though. Besides, it would be black in no time. I really think the drain will do fine. The Holset is made to boost to 30 psi bone stock so I believe the seal and ring affair Alcaid mentioned earlier should hold the oil in check at 20. I don't recall the K-14 having a seal on the compressor side and I was pushing it past it's limits. -
#110 by Gizmoman on 29 Mar, 2014 14:51
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I was very disappointed to receive my 2-1/2" elbows on Thursday only to find that they sent 2-1/2 to 2" reducer L's
I have a new set on the way (from a different vendor) and added two 45's as well just to make sure I have everything I could possibly need to pipe this up.
In the meantime, I finished fabbing an intake cannister from 16 gauge for a huge round filter I picked out at the local AutoZone - this way I know it will always be in stock when I need one.
I welded two cam latches that pull the two halves together nice and snug.
I still need to build the new intake manifold but with no elbows, I don't want to chance making it wrong. -
#111 by theman53 on 29 Mar, 2014 15:42
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I have 1/2 a garage of parts for this reason. I ordered x part and they send y or I ordered a 45 and I get a 90...so frustrating, especially when I was building most of the car it was a 20 minute drive away. I would lose the time going over and finding the wrong parts there. At least you could get something done.
It is like eating an elephant, you just have to do it one bite at a time. -
#112 by Gizmoman on 29 Mar, 2014 16:02
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I did some searching locally and theres no place to get the elbows so I am stuck relying on the web (and the wait for shipping).
I heard Amazon was going to start delivering by drone
I had to make the filter anyhoo so there's no time lost actually. I'd just really like to get this thing running. -
#113 by Gizmoman on 06 Apr, 2014 17:13
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Well, there goes another weekend.
It took all of it to make this ugly contraption. Good thing I don't tig weld for a living or I'd starve to death. The casting stayed flat which amazes me with all the heat I poured into it.
Here it is mounted while I locate the intake port from hump hose off the WAIC. In the photo, it looks like the silicone elbow goes to the end of the pipe but actually, it goes under it.
A shot from underneath
The WAIC tucked into the pillar
The pipe to the new air cleaner
That's it. Hopefully I'll make some real headway next week.
Still have to run new water hoses to the WAIC, install the new intake for the last time, install the exhaust manifold for the last time, the silicone adapters and pipes, finish piping to air cleaner, tighten everything up good, fab a brace to the turbo/manifold, install new oil and start it up. -
#114 by Gizmoman on 08 Apr, 2014 06:08
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Couldn't stand the ugly welds. Besides now that it looks better I'm certain I added at least 8 HP
So, theman, do you think I'll get more torque out of these tubes? They are 1-1/4" ID. The main tube is slightly angled making the runner length vary from 9-1/2 on #1 to 8-1/2 at #4. -
#115 by theman53 on 08 Apr, 2014 17:11
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It will definitely be an improvement. I could not believe what it did for me. I would have tried to keep them equal, but just like mine, no matter what you do it will be better than stock.
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#116 by Gizmoman on 12 Apr, 2014 18:31
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Things seemed to work out today and I actually drove it around a bit.
Here are some shots. . .
Overview
Piping is about as short as it can get without mounting the IC to the engine
The run to my new air cleaner worked out well. I used up all the 45 pipe bends or it would have been cleaner.
Had to remove the tail light to mount the IC. Inside the bracket on one of the mount bolts, I have a rubber lined clamp holding the rear water line so it doesn't get kinked. The mount itself is also mounted on rubber. When the engine is running the IC is ice cold - whoo-hoo!
I re-did the MBC and had to make a fitting to match the fairly large ones on the turbo.
Then I welded an attachment to the steel fitting and mounted it so I can get to it easily. Once I slowly work it up to 20 psi I doubt I'll adjust it again.
Took it for a quick spin - maybe a mile, and brought it home to check for leaks - sure enough, I have one around the 900 plastic mount for the block vent. I changed the O-ring on the base (it was pretty hard and flat) and the one to the transfer tube as well which appeared to have a nick in it. Still leaks and there's so much going on in that area, it's hard to tell from where. If anyone has some pointers, please chime in.
I wish I could say how great it runs but I never got it opened up. The EGT's do seem much lower than they were and the boost comes on every bit as quick as the K-14. I never went over 7 psi though and till I can get it on the freeway, I'm not sure of the improvements yet - but it feels good.
I was tempted to drive it for a bit anyway but I'd rather not fog everything up with oil from the leak. I hope it doesn't take all day tomorrow to find/fix it. -
#117 by TimpanogosSlim on 12 Apr, 2014 21:05
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Excellent. looking forward to hearing how it performs when you get that leak figured out!
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#118 by Alcaid on 12 Apr, 2014 23:31
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Looking good
now fix that leak and turn up the boost 
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#119 by 745 turbogreasel on 12 Apr, 2014 23:37
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Don't use plastic
I re-did the MBC and had to make a fitting to match the fairly large ones on the turbo.
Took it for a quick spin - maybe a mile, and brought it home to check for leaks - sure enough, I have one around the 900 plastic mount for the block vent. I changed the O-ring on the base (it was pretty hard and flat) and the one to the transfer tube as well which appeared to have a nick in it. Still leaks and there's so much going on in that area, it's hard to tell from where. If anyone has some pointers, please chime in.
Get nice plump orings form Ace.
Could one of the bolt holes go all the way through, making you need a thread sealer?
Check that plastic fitting real good for cracks too.
What is the cooling air path to the IC?