Resealed IP not pumping any fuel?

[jhax]

Well, I got everything all together and back on the car. All timed...Flywheel timing mark, #1 lobes up, mark on IP sprocket lined up with the notch on the passenger's side of the metal cover that is between the physical block and all sprockets.

What I've Tried in order:

1) poured clean diesel fuel into the pump through Return Banjo Bolt (I assume this is what others refer to as priming the pump)
2) poured clean fuel into Supply line which is firmly attached to the Supply Banjo Bolt
3) blew on send line to force fuel into feed banjo while keeping 'excess' or smaller barb on the banjo bolt open (fuel comes out of return barb)
4) Cracked air drain line on top of fuel filter
5) made gravity feed and attached supply line

Things that remained constant while trying these methods:

1) WOT
2) injector hard lines were NOT threaded into tops of injectors
3) no sign of fuel coming out of air bleeder on top of fuel filter
4) air bubbles in feed line would not move toward injection pump (regardless if the supply line was connected to fuel filter or not)

Other things to note:

1) IP sprocket mark is one tooth to the left of the mark on metal plate (was like this before I changed TB several months ago, hasnt changed since)
2) Delivery valves for cylinders 1 & 2 are moist, 3 & 4 dry
3) all 4 hard lines are dry on injector nozzle side
4) When rotating the engine to assure timing heard a loud "click" sound but everything seems in order. When turning engine over (starter) no noise like loose metal jingling around anywhere (inside IP or other). Ill take the top of IP off tomorrow to see if everything is in order.
5) According to the bentley the woodrow key on the IP shaft is supposed to be pointing UP in line with the mark on top of the IP body (just behind the governor adjustment screw). I have read that the key should be at 3 and 9 o'clock. The key is aligned with all other keys and notches inside the pump correct? Mine was pointing at 9 o'clock when I lined everything up and put the pump lock in place.

Hopefully this is enough information to help me get pointed in the right direction. I have read a few threads on the subject but there isnt much out there pertaining to this particular issue.

Thank You,
Justin

[TylerDurden]

The port on the fuel filter should remain closed, or it lets air into the system. I'd close that fitting.

The easy and best way to prime the IP (for me) is to simply pull fuel through the entire supply side and IP with a mighty-vac attached to the line from the OUT bolt. Zero air from tank though IP that way.
 

[TylerDurden]

Loud click does not seem normal. If a proper air purge does not result in fuel delivery, I'd pull the IP and check it on the bench.

[745 turbogreasel]

Use a meter or test light to verify 12V is working in both run and cranking states?

[jhax]

Thanks I'll check those out. Car ran prior to IP reseal. The loud click happened when trying to rotate the IP clockwise via the 19mm nut because it was 180 deg out. To me the click sounded like the nut tightening on the shaft. I assume it's okay to suck up fuel in the vacuum in order to make sure air is out? Should I keep my injector lines completely unscrewed like they are? I assume you take the banjo bolt off and stick your vacuum right in the hole?

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[TylerDurden]

The tip on checking the 12V supply to the cutoff solenoid is a good idea.

Re the vac on the OUT banjo fitting, I use a long-ish piece of clear tubing or the catch container usually supplied with the vac. I would not let diesel get into the vac.

[jhax]

I assume the 12v supply is switched at key on?

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[745 turbogreasel]

Start and run are  not the same inside the ignition switch, just one can be failed.  ie,. while cranking  the IP might  get no power, but might start as you let off the key if the engine was still turning fast enough.

[jhax]

Well we get 12v to the solenoid. Got the lines and injector pressurized via an air compressor in the tank. No air in the supply line. Watched the IP fill IP until I saw fuel coming out of the return line coming from the banjo bolt. My next question is how to go about the injector lines? Tighten them down at the pump head and tighten them down on the injector side but leave them all cracked, tighten down two and leave two cracked tighten three and leave one cracked?

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[TylerDurden]

I'd just leave them all loose at the injectors and see if they wet themselves.

[jhax]

Alright and if they remain dry what would the next logical step be. Oh I opened the top of the pump and drained as much fuel as I could and rotated the engine by hand and nothing seemed to be out of order inside the pump too.

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[jhax]

Just tried again. No small air bubbles inside the supply line are moving toward the pump. 10.5v on the solenoid while cranking.

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[jhax]

Tried again with a charged battery and same result. Not pulling fuel through supply.

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[TylerDurden]

I'd feed fuel from a jar, take a spare IN bolt and put it where the OUT goes, put a hose on it back to the jar and crank. The IP should pump a buttload of fuel through it. That should validate the lift section of the IP.

If the lift section is working, I'd bottle feed with the OUT bolt in place and pull the plunger out of the cutoff solenoid... see if the hardlines get fuel while cranking.

[jhax]

Okay so to reiterate. Put a one nipple banjo bolt in place of the two nipple banjo bolt on the return side. Place a section of hose one end on the one nipple banjo bolt and the other inside a jar full of diesel. Gravity feed the pump through the return line? If fuel is sucked in then the lift section checks out. If fuel does not flow from the jar into the pump then something is wrong with the lift part? If the lift part checks out. Remove the one nipple banjo bolt and place a fuel hose directly inside the hole on top. Remove the plunger from the cutoff solenoid and crank the engine. If fuel comes out of the injector lines the cutoff plunger is the issue. Correct?

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