Resealed IP not pumping any fuel?

[TylerDurden]

Almost... bottle feeding is simply supply the IP from a jar and return the output fuel to the jar.
I'd use an IN bolt (in place of the out bolt) for the test, since it doesn't have a restrictor.

If there is good fuel circulation, the lift-section of the IP should be ok.

So then, put the OUT bolt back in place and pull the plunger from the solenoid... as you correctly understand, successful delivery to the hardlines means the solenoid is jakey.

[jhax]

Alright tried your loop method and no fuel flowed from the return banjo bolt while cranking. I verified that the plunger is moving in and out via dial indicator. What do I keep reading about this vein pump?

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[jhax]

I was reading on another forum about how the vein pump can seize. The vein pump being the metal cross looking doo-dad that holds the can plate in place via two slots. The veins are the little metal rectangular things that are slotted on one side and there are four of them. The other forum said to check the vein pump open the timing plug and look inside due the hole. If the plate is not spinning there is something wrong with the vein pump.

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[TylerDurden]

Methinks it's "vane" pump:


It is possible to forget or lose the key:


If you let the mainshaft drop during the reseal, the key can fall out.

Vanes can stick, but usually only from sitting or gummy WVO. It might be possible to see the vanes from the IN port. I'll check and be back in 10 min. I have an IP on the bench.

[TylerDurden]

Nope, can't see the vanes from the inlet bore. You can see fuel going up and down tho.

[jhax]

Okay I just checked to confirm that the shaft inside the pump is rotating via the dial indicator hole.

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[TylerDurden]

That's the plunger, you should see it turning and reciprocating, if so, then at least that's ok, but it can't tell you the status of the lift section.

The lift section seems to have an issue:


Did you happen to take out the roller ring, vanes or mainshaft during the reseal?

[jhax]

Yes I took out everything and started at just the housing like the guy who did the walk through.

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[jhax]

I also used very little assembly grease on the components including the spacer in between the end of the plunger and the can plate. Would that be an issue?

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[TylerDurden]

If the washer dropped into the case it's a real big problem, but the lack of supply is deeper in... like if the key in the pic above is not in place, no fuel pumpy.

Stuck vanes or lost key... I'm at a loss for any other scenario.

Hmmm...
Both these orings get replaced?

[ORCoaster]

Okay so to reiterate. Put a one nipple banjo bolt in place of the two nipple banjo bolt on the return side. Place a section of hose one end on the one nipple banjo bolt and the other inside a jar full of diesel. Gravity feed the pump through the return line? NOPE to this!  Both lines go in the jar and you are looking to have the IP pump pull the fuel in like normal and then spit it back out from the Out side into the jar or jug.  

If fuel is sucked in then the lift section checks out. If fuel does not flow from the jar into the pump then something is wrong with the lift part? Bingo,  Give that man a dollar!


If the lift part checks out. Remove the one nipple banjo bolt and place a fuel hose directly inside the hole on top. NOPE again.  He said to replace the IN bolt you subsituted for the Out.  Set it up as it was, with the two nipple one and send the fuel back to the tank.

What he wants you to do then is take off the fuel solenoid and remove the spring and the check valve part.  This will make it so fuel will always flow through the pump, esentially manually over riding the electric on or off capability of the solenoid itself.  This will eliminate the possibility that the valve itself is a problem in the system.  

Remove the plunger from the cutoff solenoid and crank the engine. If fuel comes out of the injector lines the cutoff plunger is the issue. Correct?   Yes!!!!

It has been my experience that when one takes apart the internals of the pump and you get down to the Vanes or those little squares of metal that get pushed out of the slots up to the edge of the body of the IP and circulate the diesel, one must lube them up in some manner.  You can coat them with diesel but that might dry up and then you have the square sticking again.  I put a coat of Valenine on those parts,  The diesel eats it up and is not a problem.  I do the same with that little spacer disc on the end of the pump shaft and most times that is how I get those little tiny springs to stay put when I am at the final assembly part where you are replacing the head on the shaft.

The whole thing is upside down and the sticky stuff keeps the springs from falling out of the holes in the head.  

DAS

[ORCoaster]

Did you take that fuel regulator that is being shown in the picture apart?  That may cause you to have low internal pump pressure and not appear to be pumping enough volume. 

[jhax]

If by fuel regulator you are referring to the last picture Tyler sent through then no. I did not take that out. Do the orientation of each of the parts inside the pump have to be a certain way (ie the key on the cam plate NEEDS to be facing the top of the pump)? Or does the orientation of the pump internals not matter since they are all keyed? I am just going to take everything apart and re do it. I have assembly lube that I can put on the vanes. Which way are they supposed to slide (in and out if I am looking down into the pump housing from the injector side, or up and down 'closer and further away to the inside diameter of the housing)? Because everything floats until you put the main shaft in (with the woodrow key on the shaft) correct?

I really do appreciate all of the help. Thanks Guys

[TylerDurden]

Best to keep the keys pointing up, so when you put the camplate in, the nubbin is pointing up too... otherwise it's easy to get the IP 180^o out.

The vanes move away from the centerline of the mainshaft.

[libbydiesel]

I had one pump that I rebuilt that would not pull fuel when cranking over the engine.  I spent a fair amount of time messing with it until I finally put an electric lift pump in place.  With the lift pump going the engine started immediately.  I then removed the lift pump and it continued to work fine pulling fuel as it normally should.  My explanation is that the vanes were not pushing out at cranking speed but worked fine once the revs went up to normal engine running speeds.