Resealed IP not pumping any fuel?

[TylerDurden]

The usual advice before/during IP service is to take pictures of the orientation of the parts, so they can be restored to previous settings.

This is particularly true for index marks on accelerator shaft. Another component that must be replaced in exactly the same orientation is the governor shaft that screws in from the front of the IP... it is important to count the turns it takes to remove the shaft and use the same turns to replace it. Otherwise, IP no worky: no start, or surging, or runaway can result.


The ebay link shows an IP for a generator engine. They have a different governor than vehicle engines. Another member is advertising an IP in the WTS/WTB: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=34345.msg324994#new

[jhax]

I understand that now. I measured and replaced the gov shaft. Just not the cable spring. So how far and in what direction must I twist the shaft and how do I twist the shaft enough to get it to stay where it needs to be?

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[damac]

are you the person that resealed it?  kind of scary that you started messing with all that other stuff.

did the pump work before you got it?

i would try and put back the parts just mentioned where they were originally including the fuel screw.  below is an old picture of mine that im showing just to see if we are talking about the same part?

you have to watch it with this in that you can get no throttle one way, on the other end when you start the car it can rev to the moon. 

i can't say for sure my picture is correct for your pump, BUT for whatever reason every single pump i have now come across that was working and i put back into service has been orientated this way.

[jhax]

That is exactly what I'm referring to. if you look at these pictures both these notches are oriented very similarly pointing toward the main shaft. I assume that the governor springs can only be oriented toward one side of the vertical shaft. How does one keep that rotational pressure on the vertical shaft while placing the throttle control over the top of it? Is the coefficient of friction between the o-ring on the vertical shaft and the inside wall of the copper bushing high enough to hold the governing springs taught? Yes I resealed it and yes it ran prior. It is the original pump in my car.

[jhax]

I did mark the position when I took it apart but the diesel must have gotten on the paint and washed it off. Next time Ill just scribe it.

[libbydiesel]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140741285359?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 the pump in question. after doing some reading i have concluded that this will most likely work in my car since the aneroid is only used for altitude compensation. Anyone want to buy my pump? All new seals...huh huh? The only thing that concerns me about this pump on ebay is this statement..."NOS means new old stock. These are items that are still in new and unused condition that have been on the shelf or in storage for a number of years." perhaps the seals could be worn?

That pump can be made to work, but the shaft is the larger 20mm size and the timing advance curve is wrong.  You'd need a custom machined injection pump sprocket and to swap the 1.6 timing advance parts in.  IMO, in the long run you'd have more bang for buck by getting an actual VW pump.

[jhax]

Well that won't be necessary because we have fuel coming through the outlet ports. I turned the vertical governor screw counterclockwise and the throttle spring housing sat right on the splines. My next question is how much fuel is supposed to be exiting the ports. It seems like pressure is low. I read somewhere that it should be 1300psi at the injector nozzles. How fast should fuel be exiting the pressure valves?

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[TylerDurden]

If you have the lines off the IP, fuel comes out in tiny little spits, like a drop each time. (An injector attached would make that little spit into a "FFFFFTT".)

[jhax]

Okay I have the marks at the end of the governor lined up with the middle of the three tick marks on the throttle bracket much like the last picture in the series of the three pictures I posted earlier.

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[jhax]

Good news! All lines filled at the injectors. Bad news! I snapped the post on the number 4 glow plug that holds the wire to the copper strip. So now I have to wait until tomorrow to get a new glow plug. Thank you all for your help. Lesson of the week, don't just mark the throttle lever and governor post with white out, scribe it.

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[ORCoaster]

Fire it up anyway. The heat from the cylinder next door will make it light in a bit.  Come on we want this thing running by nightfall.  Oh, too late.

Try it anyway.  As long as the GP is still solid and not losing compression it should start.  Just like starting with one less GP to warm up.

[jhax]

Haha right, one f the disadvantages of living in a small town in northern CO. No glow plugs on hand at any auto parts stores. Ill just wait until tomorrow, it is a pain in the ass taking #3 plug off, switching it for #4, putting 4 into 3 and placing the copper wire back over it and vice versa. I like to keep my audience riveted!

[TylerDurden]

This could be interesting.

I'd make sure the cutoff solenoid is working before trying to start it.

[fatmobile]

 Right, if you took the plunger out the only way to stop the engine is let loose the clutch with the brake on and kill it.
 If the RPMs take off you are in trouble, especially if you are in a garage.

[jhax]

Tested the cutoff solenoid today before putting it back in. That little magnet sucked in that sleeve real quick when we hooked it up to a battery.