-
#15
by
Gizmoman
on 23 Jun, 2013 09:00
-
The bell housing and starter tip may still need a little clearancing for the pressure plate.
Hmm, OK.
Could that be the reason it wont stab in?
I used an alignment tool for the clutch plate when I torqued down the pressure plate - should slide right in. I also blocked one wheel and rotated the other - no luck.
-
#16
by
libbydiesel
on 23 Jun, 2013 09:11
-
No, that's not the reason. Probably the reason it won't go in easily is because of the clutch slave/throw out bearing. Put a c-clamp on the clutch release lever to hold it all the way UP and it will slide in easily.
-
#17
by
Gizmoman
on 23 Jun, 2013 09:18
-
No, that's not the reason. Probably the reason it won't go in easily is because of the clutch slave/throw out bearing. Put a c-clamp on the clutch release lever to hold it all the way UP and it will slide in easily.
OK - I'll do that.
-
#18
by
Gizmoman
on 23 Jun, 2013 09:40
-
Worked great and went in about 1/2" and stopped.
Do I remove the clamp now? It would seem that I am pushing the throwout bearing against the pressure plate at this point.
-
#19
by
Gizmoman
on 23 Jun, 2013 09:54
-
That did it - took off the clamp (I used bailing wire instead) and it went in pretty easily with a clamp on the bottom and one of the bolts. I didn't force it at all.
Libby, will I have to get it running before I find out about the clearancing you mentioned?
Also, it seems odd that the Gee-Bee hose ends to the radiator pipes are so much larger that the new SS ones I just installed (same diameter as stock). Also, the connector on the back (end) of the head is much larger than the 5/8 heater hose. Isn't that what it goes to?
-
#20
by
libbydiesel
on 23 Jun, 2013 13:00
-
I would recommend installing the engine to trans bolts and starter. Then rotate it by hand a few times. If you don't feel anything, then bump the starter a couple times. Then pull it apart and see if there is any clearancing necessary.
-
#21
by
Gizmoman
on 23 Jun, 2013 13:35
-
I would recommend installing the engine to trans bolts and starter. Then rotate it by hand a few times. If you don't feel anything, then bump the starter a couple times. Then pull it apart and see if there is any clearancing necessary.
Will do - thanks. Already have most of the bolts in and the carrier bars as well. I'm hoping that there's no issues but I guess I'll find out. If you had to clearance, I will most likely as well. I should have read your post first.
I'm done with this for the weekend - havta move some furniture for the in-laws.
-
#22
by
Gizmoman
on 04 Jul, 2013 09:05
-
OK,
Engine back out and sure enough, there's two very small areas of interference (as you said there may be).
One is on the bottom of the timing arrow and the other is on a bump next to the timing hole - again, just as you posted.
I hope hitting those with a grinder takes care of it. It seems odd that my fully charged dual batteries wouldn't turn it over more than one rev.
-
#23
by
CRSMP5
on 04 Jul, 2013 09:18
-
thats why you supposed to turn by hand..
i watched guy pull engine 3x and pan.. cause he screwed up main shaft length then thinking bottom end locked.. back in 96...
-
#24
by
Gizmoman
on 04 Jul, 2013 09:30
-
thats why you supposed to turn by hand.. i watched guy pull engine 3x and pan.. cause he screwed up main shaft length then thinking bottom end locked.. back in 96...
I did turn it by "hand" - well a 2 foot breaker bar. It seemed a bit stiffer that what it was on the stand but I just figured it was additional drag from being hooked up to the tranny.
I also didn't modify my main shaft length - it's still stock. Am I supposed to? It seemed to slide in fine after I fiddled with the clutch lever.
-
#25
by
CRSMP5
on 04 Jul, 2013 09:52
-
no no listen to me on main shaft length.. libby should know that one.. when people put diesel bell housings on the non diesel tranny the main shaft has to be shortened...
your issue is 02a flywheel crap..
he figured out his mistake when he learned loosing up all bolts to tranny 1/2 turn allowed stuff to turn again...
but libby said turn by hand as you tighten it up.. so thats why.. he learned long ago on that silly stuff..
the engine really should roll over nice by hand.. if you need a cheater pipe.. id rethink your work... cam cap, main cap is on backwards.. something.. any engine ive rebuilt i can turn by alt with wrench/socket where v belt no slip...
-
#26
by
Gizmoman
on 04 Jul, 2013 12:00
-
no no listen to me on main shaft length.. libby should know that one.. when people put diesel bell housings on the non diesel tranny the main shaft has to be shortened...
your issue is 02a flywheel crap..
he figured out his mistake when he learned loosing up all bolts to tranny 1/2 turn allowed stuff to turn again...
but libby said turn by hand as you tighten it up.. so thats why.. he learned long ago on that silly stuff..
the engine really should roll over nice by hand.. if you need a cheater pipe.. id rethink your work... cam cap, main cap is on backwards.. something.. any engine ive rebuilt i can turn by alt with wrench/socket where v belt no slip...
I am listening - libby said nothing of the shaft shortening - just clearancing of the bell housing and the nose of the starter
-
#27
by
CRSMP5
on 04 Jul, 2013 12:03
-
no no as in no do not... ignore mainshaft... unless you built custom tranny too..
-
#28
by
Gizmoman
on 04 Jul, 2013 12:13
-
no no as in no do not... ignore mainshaft... unless you built custom tranny too..
Got it.
I clearanced the bellhousing and the starter nose where it seems to be touching. Man I hope this is all the clearancing i need. I tried to find libbys post and photos - no luck.
Stabbing this in is a bit of a chore with my home made setup.
Edit - I found the link
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=549444
-
#29
by
libbydiesel
on 04 Jul, 2013 12:32
-
Your trans was already set up for the AAZ engine so you shouldn't have to mess with the input shaft. The gasser transaxles have an input shaft that is approx 11mm longer and so if fitting a diesel bell housing to gasser trans you need to call a rabbi.