Saw the vid. I'd bottle-feed: from (and back-to) a clean container, to separate the filter and long lines from the variables. Ensure there is flow through the IP.I'd also verify the basics:No air in linesCold-start lever pulled12V at GPsThen, I'd check compression and timing.
Crack the nut at the pump at number 3 to see if there is fuel there. If so move to top and crack that one until fuel comes to the nut. But really if you have it at three others the fourth shouldn't matter. It will be difficult to start but not impossible.
I'd take the injector lines off the IP and watch the delivery valves while someone cranks the engine... fuel should sequentially spit from each delivery valve. Keeping fuel off the hoses is easy using shop rags.I'd remove any delivery valves that don't spit (being careful to not lose the guts) and test again.Sucking from the bottle needs to be more specific... fuel needs to be flowing to the IP and from the IP *without bubbles* at about .5 liter/min when the engine is cranking. (About 1 liter/min @1000rpm)The picture is a useless water-separator which most folks remove and replace with fuel line. They get brittle with age and leak air into the line.
get rid of that water separator.
Are you sure about no air in the fuel filter? Or the little screw on top being loose? With that much air in the lines you may have a seal problem on the pump. Running on the Gatorade bottle will tell you that. To get fuel into and air out of the IP I use a big syringe for mixing 2 stroke oil. The diameter of the hose just fits in the out bolt hole and I can see air in it as the plastic is clear. I pull air and some fuel in then let the fuel drain back in. Then pull on it some more till I can see fuel all the way to the top of the pump. Granted that does not get it all but 98 percent of it. With air like you have in the lines I doubt it will run proper. And why is it blue? Purge? Or koolaid