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#30
by
8v-of-fury
on 05 Mar, 2013 20:26
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SO CAL!?!?
What do you even need a block heater for!? LOL!
What is your lowest yearly temperature?? 45f?
As for glow plugs, even though it only gets to "45" here (So Cal), having only three of four working almost doubled my crank time in the morning. After all, this is an IDI not DI and needs a bit of help.
I never said the use of Plugs wasn't necessary.. My IDI's need the plugs to start even during a 25C + summer. IDI needs 4 properly working plugs to fire properly.
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#31
by
Gizmoman
on 06 Mar, 2013 05:41
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I never said the use of Plugs wasn't necessary.. My IDI's need the plugs to start even during a 25C + summer. IDI needs 4 properly working plugs to fire properly.
Thanks for pointing that out. All I was saying that I was surprised that only one bad GP can cause starting issues.
I'm learning a lot about this engine from this forum. Actually, I wasn't aware that DI engines didn't rely on GP's as much as IDI's till now.
Speaking of GP's, one of mine had the tip missing. Do they slowly disintegrate, or come off in chunks? (scary). I recall the top of one of my pistons looked like it had small pebbles bouncing around in there - possibly bits of glow plugs?
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#32
by
wolf_walker
on 06 Mar, 2013 09:23
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I never said the use of Plugs wasn't necessary.. My IDI's need the plugs to start even during a 25C + summer. IDI needs 4 properly working plugs to fire properly.
Thanks for pointing that out. All I was saying that I was surprised that only one bad GP can cause starting issues.
I'm learning a lot about this engine from this forum. Actually, I wasn't aware that DI engines didn't rely on GP's as much as IDI's till now.
Speaking of GP's, one of mine had the tip missing. Do they slowly disintegrate, or come off in chunks? (scary). I recall the top of one of my pistons looked like it had small pebbles bouncing around in there - possibly bits of glow plugs?
Quite possible. Check the injector spray pattern on that hole(and the others).
I've seen these motors survive a lot, isn't ideal, but they keep on trucking.
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#33
by
745 turbogreasel
on 06 Mar, 2013 12:04
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My D24 was hard to start with only 2 glows working
Eroded tip is abnormal.
If you go to the VW dealer, and they give you a free glow plug, it's because the fed your motor one on accident.
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#34
by
8v-of-fury
on 06 Mar, 2013 13:33
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Did you ever use Ether on it?
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#35
by
Gizmoman
on 06 Mar, 2013 18:42
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I never used ether on it but the PO may have. It was set up for WVO but I've taken all that off including the 20 gallon tank. I did try to run it on the WVO a few times - it ran but I just don't like it.
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#36
by
bajacalal
on 06 Mar, 2013 18:50
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I live in Northeast San Diego county mountains and the coldest it has been this winter is 28F I think on one frosty night. If you're on the coast it probably doesn't get below 45F. My car starts on the first crank, even in the thirties, with good glow plugs and I don't need to use the timing advance, but I do because it reduces the smoking on really cold starts (if you guys would call them that). A block heater is definitely NOT necessary unless you're planning an Alaska expedition. IIRC, the glow plugs come on when the engine temperature is below about 100F... there have been days when they did not come on at all.
My Cummins Dodge doesn't even have glow plugs at all, it only has an air intake heater and I disconnected it because it makes no difference for the temperatures I'm seeing, it always starts immediately, on a cold day with no starting aids of any kind at all.
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#37
by
hillfolk'r
on 06 Mar, 2013 19:07
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Well a vw idi needs glow plugs for the first cold start even if its 95f out. Let it run 10 seconds and shut it off and on the restart you wouldnt need em. A burnt tip is an injector issue or ether 99% of the time. Nope u gotta have some glow plugs or it wont go. I never tried a steep hill and pop starting though
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#38
by
bajacalal
on 06 Mar, 2013 19:18
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They bump start pretty well with no glow plugs... I think the reason they cycle the plugs at 95 degrees might be more for emissions than actual necessity.
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#39
by
vanbcguy
on 07 Mar, 2013 11:25
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Well a vw idi needs glow plugs for the first cold start even if its 95f out. Let it run 10 seconds and shut it off and on the restart you wouldnt need em. A burnt tip is an injector issue or ether 99% of the time. Nope u gotta have some glow plugs or it wont go. I never tried a steep hill and pop starting though
Steep hill and pop starting works quite well as the engine RPM is much closer to actual operating range rather than the low RPM of the starter. Did I mention I live on a steep hill?
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#40
by
hillfolk'r
on 24 Apr, 2013 18:24
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About time with your stupid block heater picture hillfolk you dork.
120vac. 1000 watts 5/8 hose nipples. Cold water in bottom hot out the top. They make higher wattage ones but that will warm your car up to 100 in an hour at 20deg F id bet.
Gens are always warm but every once in a while i get to replace a dead one. They start warming fast and sound a little like a coffee pot.
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#41
by
hillfolk'r
on 24 Apr, 2013 18:26
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Kim hotstart may have the freeze plugs with pipe threads in them so you can add a hose nipple. I just worked on a gm 3.0 liter 4 cyl that had them on it today for the block heater.
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#42
by
Gizmoman
on 24 Apr, 2013 21:15
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I just put the block heater in cause it was free and Crazy Andy was kind enough to include the 110 V cord. I certainly wont need it now (in San Diego) but maybe someday I will - never know.
Still waiting on some parts. . . First set of mains I ordered came in one size under and I need stock as the crank is dandy.
Second set came in and when I pulled the vacuum sealed card out of the box, I counted nine bearings (but the correct size).
I'm still waiting for the new set. I was almost tempted to stick the old ones back in and move on.
Still learning patience
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#43
by
libbydiesel
on 24 Apr, 2013 21:19
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If the old ones plastigage within spec for new parts (usually do) then you are better off reusing them (in the same locations). Changing them just introduces new wear to the crank journals.
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#44
by
Gizmoman
on 25 Apr, 2013 05:52
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If the old ones plastigage within spec for new parts (usually do) then you are better off reusing them (in the same locations). Changing them just introduces new wear to the crank journals.
Thanks libbydiesel - good point. The crank is going into a better block (which may not matter). However, I had the old bearings all arranged in order of locationand when I decided to change blocks, I tossed 'em in a box and ordered new ones (three times now). Should have written numbers on them. I am re-using the thrust bearings though. Even in the different block, end play is well within spec. The good news is, I welded and machined the end of the crank for a nice press-fit of a new TDI "D" sprocket and bolt - should go faster now