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#30
by
tyb525
on 09 Jan, 2013 19:56
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I noticed it when I took the pic and thought I fixed it at the time, but it looks like I need a new bushing or something to secure it. I did notice a little less clack and a little better performance after pushing it all the way back. I do about 50/50 town and country driving every day.
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#31
by
TylerDurden
on 09 Jan, 2013 20:19
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The CS cable is usually retained by a spring clip Satan designed when he was also working on e-clips and circlips.
Sometimes it's easier to install the CS cable before installing the IP.
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#32
by
tyb525
on 09 Jan, 2013 20:40
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That must be what I'M missing. Maybe I can rig something else up until I can get one.
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#33
by
bbob203
on 09 Jan, 2013 20:40
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The CS cable is usually retained by a spring clip Satan designed when he was also working on e-clips and circlips.
Sometimes it's easier to install the CS cable before installing the IP.
Dude your making me laugh my ass off. Really though I ended up screwing up my idle adjustment screw on my ip today so i had to loosen it to fix it and had to reset my timing so i checked it before i loosened it i was at .033in i bumped it up to .045in so much better.
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#34
by
TylerDurden
on 09 Jan, 2013 20:56
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Ja, last week I knocked mine up to .053" and it took a few more cranks to light-off; so I backed off to .048" and it is starting on second rev (25F ambient) and seems to show very little smoke at highway speed.
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#35
by
bbob203
on 09 Jan, 2013 21:54
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Ja, last week I knocked mine up to .053" and it took a few more cranks to light-off; so I backed off to .048" and it is starting on second rev (25F ambient) and seems to show very little smoke at highway speed.
What effect does advanced timing have on the EGT?
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#36
by
ORCoaster
on 09 Jan, 2013 22:15
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.048 seems a tad high is that the spec for your engine or pump combo?
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#37
by
bbob203
on 09 Jan, 2013 22:25
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I don't know what the spec for my engine would be. I have an eco motor with a TD injection pump. Ive always thought the books specs were a tad low.
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#38
by
TylerDurden
on 09 Jan, 2013 22:33
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IIRC, .039 is spec for ECO & 85-86 TD.
But we're dealing with a 22yr-old engine/pump in this case (25-30yrs for my others). I started at spec, since I had the engine out... and I generally don't time with a dial-gauge, but rather by ear and performance. Since I still had the tools out, I took readings when I bumped the timing around.
Regarding EGTs... I can't say with any certainty, since I don't have an EGT gauge. My guess is head temps will rise with nailing, since the energy is not going into piston-stroke. (I presume nailing can happen for various reasons, not just advanced timing.)
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#39
by
fatmobile
on 10 Jan, 2013 00:30
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Ja, last week I knocked mine up to .053" and it took a few more cranks to light-off; so I backed off to .048" and it is starting on second rev (25F ambient) and seems to show very little smoke at highway speed.
What effect does advanced timing have on the EGT?
I know retarded timing will cause high EGTs.
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#40
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 10 Jan, 2013 18:50
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I discovered my cold start cable housing was pulled out of the bracket... that explains why I was suddenly getting worse mpg's that last couple weeks
I saw that in your pix, but thought you were aware or in the middle of a procedure... :/
Really shouldn't make much difference, unless you idle or stop-go a lot.
Cold start cable being un-hooked will have ZERO affects on your power, mileage, or anything like that..
the cold start advance only operates at idle. if you give your engine any throttle AT ALL, that brings the advance piston up off the cold start advance mechanism..
nope, the cable being out of the bracket is NOT what is causing your lower-than-normal economy..
hows your fuel filter?
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#41
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 10 Jan, 2013 18:52
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Ja, last week I knocked mine up to .053" and it took a few more cranks to light-off; so I backed off to .048" and it is starting on second rev (25F ambient) and seems to show very little smoke at highway speed.
What effect does advanced timing have on the EGT?
REALLY advanced timing will cause COOL EGTs.. like you will barely be able to break 1000*
REALLY retarded timing will cause REALLY HOT EGTs... you will have the pyrometer buried by half throttle, and omg, the smoke...
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#42
by
8v-of-fury
on 10 Jan, 2013 19:01
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Its not unhooked.. its always on actually. Being that pushing the handle in would cause the sheathing to back off and the mechanism to stay "on". So any amount of idling, 400 rpm higher would kill economy.
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#43
by
tyb525
on 10 Jan, 2013 22:10
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Well I clearly notice a difference in sound and performance when the cold start is pulled vs when it isn't, when driving at any rpm. Fuel filter was just changed less than 500 mi ago.
I have seen other examples of driving with the cold start on changing how the engine runs, so I don't think it only affects the engine at idle.
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#44
by
8v-of-fury
on 10 Jan, 2013 22:14
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So I don't think it only affects the engine at idle.
No it really does, it moves the advance piston about 1/8".. internal pump pressures moves it the rest of the inch of movement. Its really only good to about 1750 give or take. Then pump pressures pick up and move the piston.