Dub Nasty- The rebirth of the dirty diesel

[R.O.R-2.0]

Lol don't worry I have an extra that is completely unmolested in the trunk of the car. That was one of my bright ideas when I was just a puppy. My initial thought was to have a hood scoop that sunk in and aimed right for it along with some sort of plug or cover for wet weather. It was my experiment to try out ram air intake...it made sense to me. Besides, when I got the car it never had any of the ducting going to it anyways so it was still sucking hot air. It certainly makes it sound a lot meaner too.

a ram air setup that sucks air from behind the grille is much easier. plus, you dont have to cut up a hood..

LOTS of us used to run ram air setups on our n/a's before we cut teeth and graduated to playing with boosted engines..

i HATE the intake roar that diesels have.. the dual plenum intake i just built, is VERY quiet in comparison to an open n/a air box..

[nathantheengineer]

Looking good, loving how methodical you are.

With ram air, Kawasaki ( i believe) proved that nothing much happened below 100 mph but upto approx 150 it built to approx 5% positive pressure, biggest gains were near top end.   

Getting into the dangerous world of fluid dynamics there though!

With n/a's they are tuned because you want to rather than take the sometimes easier and always more powerful route of boosting an engine.

For my sins we have two other mk3 golf's the girlfriends is a 16v gti ( which i want to supercharge) and mine is a vr6.

I could charge mine (either super or turbo) but the old school mechanic in me wants to put 6 throttle bodies, a lairy cam and a decent exhaust on it (perhaps a bore to 3L too!!!)

point being; i could go quicker/get more power with a charger but i will have more fun building a tuned na

[R.O.R-2.0]

well, from a diesel stand point, there is VERY LITTLE power to be had without boost. there is simply NO WAY to get enough air into the engine to make good power, without making VERY HIGH egts..

a VR, its quite EASY to raise the compression, add cams, make it flow better, and all that..

the amount of upgrade room on a n/a diesel is VERY SMALL..

100hp is about as much as i have EVER seen made with a n/a diesel.. and thats just no fun. you can get more power with boost, hands down.

[flowmastergfunk]

I knew from the get-go that a n/a deez is like a lesbian with no tongue and short fingers. There are a few tricks and attachments that can be added for increased performance, but you are only going to get so much out of her. I am just working with what we have. I have already put more money and time into a car that isn't mine...I don't to add a turbo into the equation. Being for my old lady, I just want it to be dependable, get good millage and make it quick enough to dust a stock diesel and the occasional prius. She loved it before so even if it has 5 extra HP after this rebuld, she will be happy.

If I break 80HP, I will tickled, proud and flabbergasted all at the same time.

As for my own projects? I love my dubs but I am a RWD kinda guy. I have a Mercedes 190e 2.6 that I am putting a rebuilt 3.0 into and hopefully a 5 speed. I had a 190d 2.2 that got wrecked but that was my baby! I love that little n/a motor and I had done a lot of mods to it to get more power out of it and make it more simplistic(wayyyy over engineered). I kept the engine and all my custom parts when I scrapped the body but right now I am saving up to gnab another 84 190d that is already a 5 speed for 1000 bucks!

The VW diesel is MUCH more simplistic and user friendly but since I have been a mercedes mechanic for so long, I have come to love 190's and especially the diesels. I will post about those in the non VW section some day 

As for today's progress I got the injection pump all torn apart and wasn't completely happy with what I found. It is a good thing I was planning on resealing it because it was certainly due for a good cleaning at the very least! I also got a turnbuckle and some hardware for my alternator project as well. I couldn't find a closed body one but it is stainless and looks like the quality shall suffice. It might be a little on the ghetto side but anything is better than the stock tensioner with A/C!!! I will post pictures later and I might have a few questions as well.

[theman53]

If you are used to mercedes diesels then you will appriciate the speed of the VW's LOL. I drove my cousins 300D. It was stock, and did not get up and go at all. If you were rolling at 70mph it had some go, but under that it was not good.

As far as dusting a prius, as much as I hate to admit, your n/a will probably only do that if the prius is behind you getting the black cloud poured on it. Which is what I do EVERY time I have a prius behind me in my diesel, but to each his own.

[Smokey Eddy]

wicked sick build brah! i especially like your exhaust runner!

[flowmastergfunk]

Those om617 motors that are in the 300d's are tractor motors. As with any diesel, you can get more out of it, but the om60x series are much different. The four cyl is a om601. Pretty cool series since they have hydraulic valves, doing away with adjustments. I found a lot of extra hidden power by deleting the A/C, engine driven fan, EGR crap, modifiying the intake and exhaust and doing a TON of weight reduction on the car. The worst part about these engines is the way they nest the injection pump under the intake and the block access to the back of the pump with the oil filter flange. Not very mod friendly.

I don't want to get too sidetracked though. As stated, I got my injection pump apart. I understand that it you plan on doing a full rebuild, there is much more to it than just replacing seals. I wanted to take it all apart just so that I can get a better understanding of it and I had a feeling it would need a good cleaning. Boy was I right! I tried to take some pictures to give an idea on how it comes apart. I gained guidance from veeman's walkthrough on how to re-assemble it.

I already had the governor spring assembly out of it from a previous day so I don't have pictures of that. I am sure that most n/a people already know how to do that anyways

Then, onward to taking out the delivery valves and the head. As soon as you start taking the head off, you hear parts moving around and your heart stops for a second haha. It's okay. Once you look at all the exposed parts and the order you take them out, it starts to make sense.

That little piston shim falls out first and then the cam rollers can tumble out if you don't have the shaft pointing straight down. Not a big deal if you are taking a pump all the way apart but be extra careful if you are just trying to replace the seal for the head!!!
     Taking out the centrifugal governor is fairy easy...just don't be a fool like me! I took the locknut completely off before backing out the shaft with a hex socket. I hope I can get it adjusted just right when I reinstall it but it would be wise to leave the locknut on to help keep track of where the shaft was before removal. Keep me in your prayers when I put this back in lol

After that, I took off the cold start lever and the cover on the opposite side, just to get more parts out of the way


Discovered a fair amount of gunk and surface rust on the shims and spring in the advance mechanism! Ew!

Now to get that roller carrier out, you need use a pick or something like it to take that little clip off of the actuator pin, located at the bottom center of the carrier. Be careful! It wants to fly off!

You will then gain access to this little lock pin. It didn't want to come out with a magnet but needle nose pliers pull it out just fine.

Te actuator pin is pretty snug too but you can sneak it out gently with some needle nose as well. The advance piston will come right out, however, you CANNOT get the carrier out without taking out the governor levers. You CANNOT take out the governor levers without taking out those goofy triangular bolts on the sides of the pump. You CAN make your own socket to get those silly bolts out

I took an extra 13mm socket and ground down 3 sides until it fit over the bolt head. Hazaa!

The carrier and main shaft come right out after that. Don't loose that little woodruff key!
I noticed right away after I took those parts out that there was some abnormal wear on the inside of the cylinder walls. I am not going to stress about it but I was a bit shocked when I saw it.


Moving on, the rotor cover in my pump only has two little phillips screws in it. Don't use a cheap screwdriver because you don't want to strip these!


I pulled this out only to find that this chamber was a MESS! All of the vanes in my rotor were rusted, crusted and seized! Everything was covered in rust and varnish! I couldn't even get the stator out of the pump body! soaked it all in WD over night so hopefully things have loosened up. I plan on wet sanding all of these parts on a flat piece of glass with a very fine piece of sand paper. I sure hope that all of this goes back together nice and smooth!

Does anybody have all of the torque specs for this pump??? Tintin posted pics at the end of veeman's walkthrough but imageshack removed them!!!!!! Any help or advice is appreciated as always  

[R.O.R-2.0]

i literally just about fell over laughing about the Lesbian with no tongue, and short fingers!!

[nathantheengineer]

Unfortunately i don't know the torque specs but that pump looks beautifully made.

[R.O.R-2.0]

Contact Giles, he is the mighty pump master.. he should have everything you desire..

[flowmastergfunk]

     I know it has been a while now since I have  made an update but the motor is coming along well. I got the oilpan on, injection pump installed, got the drive belt on and the engine timed and I finally got it off the stand to put the rear main and the flywheel on. I lost my memory card so no pix yet but I will post again Monday.
     Today I spent the whole day going to 3 different junkyards and looking the best possible match for a transmission. Armed with a print out cheat sheet of the model numbers and gear ratios I revisited a few of the yards. One thing that I would like to point out is that even though cabriolets use MK1 brackets, The late model ones still have updated transmission cases, so they CAN be used with MK2 brackets. Unfortunately, all of the cabby ratios SUCK! The transmission that I ended up getting was a CHE out of a low millage '95 with a 2.0. I had already read that '93 and newer transmissions were known for chewing up reverse gears, but by this point, I am taking the risk. I stated before that I thought my late FF rabbit tranny would be nice with a 3.67 final drive. With the exception of the 0.80 5th gear, the CHE is darn close to the custom gear set that I wanted. 4th gear is an 0.97 instead of 0.91, but that still sounds better than the 1.03 of the ACN. Since I have a spare 0.71 fifth set, I am just going to throw that in and call it good. I hope there aren't any other differences that I was unaware of! I noticed that VW switched to an electronic sensor for the speedo instead of a cable but the hole looks the same. I hope the main spline to the clutch is the same! I will be bummed out if it ends up not working out! I can hardly wait for Monday to come around! As long as my pump rebuild was a success, I hope to have it running by next weekend. Knock on wood! Fuel delivery problems seem like the most common threads that I see in diesel forums. But you know what?...We got this 

[flowmastergfunk]

Well, looks like I sadly found the answer to my own question...and I am not pleased with the results. Finally found information stating that the CHE transmission that I got has a 24mm mainshaft, like the 16v transmissions. I would still very much like to use this transmission but I am starting to have my doubts that it will work. It seems like I might be able to use a different clutch and pressure plate setup but I have no leads as to what I would need to make this work. Also, If the main shaft is bigger, I don't think I will be able to to use my old 0.71 5th. FML!!!!! I really need to stop buying transmissions that I can't F*ING USE!!!!! Can somebody please give me some guidance or a hug?? Maybe even a god forsaken transmission that will fit my needs? I can't take much more of these 020 woes

[theman53]

99% positive you can use the fifth, it just has to be machined or something like that. The clutch and PP needed are the 210mm setup. Large spline IIRC is 7/8" that is what you will need. Any questions contact broke vw he will help.

[flowmastergfunk]

Thank you theman. I have been researching like crazy since I made my last post. I have found that the 210mm clutch is a fairly common upgrade for turbo diesel owners. I read that people are using the 210mm 16v pressure plate for more clamping power, the 210mm 8v clutch plate To match up with their 22mm 020's ( I would use the 16v clutch as well because of my 24mm spline) and capping it all off with a 210mm gasser flywheel. I had a good discussion with my machinist about using lightened flywheels on diesels and he pretty well talked me out of it. I understand that it should wind up a little quicker with the lighter flywheel but diesels are equipped with the heavy flywheel for a reason. The extra weight helps to balance the engine and lightening it will lessen the longevity of your engines internals...it seems pretty self explanatory. I heard that the AAZ has a 210mm flywheel so I wish I could get my hands on on of those...but I have a feeling I will be going back for the one on the 2.0 that I got the tranny from. Switching the clutch setup is an unexpected expense, but at least it is an technically an upgrade. Too bad the other clutch was barely used. Now my biggest concern is swapping that 5th gear.  The 0.80 doesn't sound too exciting but I think it might be tolerable for a while. I feel a little less stressed now but I think I might just contact broke for some insight.

[theman53]

Lightening the flywheel will not lessen the life. If you lighten it and not balance it then it will lessen life. If you have a gasser flywheel then watch out for the TDC mark. Some didn't have one just a mark to time it by, from what I have heard and it is not at TDC. The extra weight was to lessen the vibration on the dash and make it a more pleasant driving experience.

Stock 210mm flywheel weighs 12.6lbs from an aaz, I don't know what a gasser one will be but it will be lighter. It is nuetral balance so all is good.
The 24 spline is what my 020 is and it is small spline 13/16". There is a large spline that I believe is 28 and I know it is 7/8" hole. I think a 16v GTI should be your clutch.