Possible Headgasket/who knows

[billybobf]

ok, so I have to ask, is IP timing best set by ear after getting it running right?

it seems to me worn parts and other issues would cause mechanical timing measurements to vary widely compared to actual injection points

[Rising]

Okay I think I only loosened 3 so that would make sense...

Found it!

Okay so I advanced timing a bit and that helped alot! The engine runs smoothly now with the cold start lever pulled out and smoothly with it pushed in after warming up. I think it could use a touch more advance but I need another person to help with that.

I took it for a short drive and the car drives normally. No signs of overheating at all. all in all I think she will be good to go after I get it timed a little better.

However it seems to me that the timing belt is riding a little too close to the engine side and it might be rubbing a bit. [/url][/IMG]

If I move it back over after it runs it pulls back to the sam position... any ideas how to get it to line up better?

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[R.O.R-2.0]

My bad I thought I was talking with Billybobf getting you a dial gauge will be more difficult.  There are four bolts that hold the IP pump in place, three 13 mm from the back side one through the IP pulley.  The one down low is most often overlooked.  Crack the IP nuts a bit and the pump should rotate easy then.  Move pump towards engine, retighten IP nuts on lines and one bolt up front to secure pump.  Then restart.  Once running you can loosen IP bolt and move pump and secure when it gets right.  Then tighten all the rest of the IP bolts but loosen all the nuts to relieve tension on them.  Then retighten. 

when he says NUTS, he is talking about the flare nut on the end of the injector lines..

dont advance/retard timing without loosening the 4 flare nuts holding the lines to the pump. if you dont relieve tension off the lines every adjustment you make, eventually you will be needing new high pressure lines because your old ones cracked..

[smutts]

If the belt is not tracking straight, check the hidden bolt and conical nut that hides beneath the injection pump opposite the belt end. If missing or loose, can cause this.

[Rising]

The fourth one that you loosen to adjust timing? Its there... and tightened down..

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[rs899]

If the belt is not tracking straight, check the hidden bolt and conical nut that hides beneath the injection pump opposite the belt end. If missing or loose, can cause this.

Someone also said on here that it is possible that the injection pump bracket may be out of kilter slightly.  You may be able to loosen and tweak the front half of it, causing the end with the fourth bolt to raise or lower.  That will straighten the belt.

[745 turbogreasel]

ok, so I have to ask, is IP timing best set by ear after getting it running right?

it seems to me worn parts and other issues would cause mechanical timing measurements to vary widely compared to actual injection points

It's best to use a pump that is not wore out.

[ORCoaster]

Billybob what you ask is the source of constant debate here.  Trying not to take sides on this is like trying to please your mother-in-law after you insulted her cooking. 

Here is logic for thought.  The pump is designed with certain tolerances and as it ages or is abused by lack of proper filtering fuel it starts to wear.  Measuring for specific timing can only compensate for some of that wear as not all the mechanical workings of the advance mechanism are in play when the engine is off for the measurement.  Once it is started some of the other dynamic functions come into play.  The pressure regulation, the fuel thickness, the vacuum on the inlet line and filter, the advance mechanism on that internal cam ring to name most of them.  So in my mind it does make sense to "listen to what the engine says"  This was the crust of the biscuit for a recently passed on member on another forum, Hagar.  He called it Hillbilly tuning bless him.  His procedures tried to take in account the "wear factor"  So for him what you ask was a resounding yes. 

Now others say if it isn't running correctly at the specified measurement then you are in need of a rebuild to make it behave itself.  Well yes to that as well but what about the gray area where you are between new and toasted IP functionality.  For most of us this might be the miles/km at the 200-300 mile mark.  Not bad enough to rebuild but not quite right either. 

So what was the question again?
Oh, setting it by ear after measuring the timing. 

I am inclined to say tweak it man, If it runs better with that little bit extra bump forward or aft then that is where it runs better.  Is that not what we all strive to achieve?  I know I do.  Hence I am forever "playing with that stoopid car"  as the neighbor says.  He actually said he thought I was sick because he hasn't seen me with the hood up in the last three weekends.  Fooled him.  Just working up another project. 
Should have seen his reaction to the WVO setup, so funny.

The problem to getting the timing to work well is being able to get it to sound good at idle and have that carry to when the IP is cranking around at 2500.  The dynamics between the two points seems about as bad as the gray area between full rebuild and new pump.

Just my 45 cents.  DAS