Possible Headgasket/who knows

[R.O.R-2.0]

I have for sure heard of 20psi running safely on fiber gaskets and stock head bolts. You should be a-ok with stock stuff no problem. I wouldn't waste the money.

The oil leak is most certainly not a critical spot, however it would be wise to make sure it is not leaking towards the trans at all. If the oil gets down in between the block and bell housing and gets on the clutch disk it will wreck it in short order. Had one fail from this same issue in 3 weeks. I had a heavy leak though. If you just make sure it drains away from there, you will be alright to fix that one at your convenience.

There are MANY great threads on how to do your own timing, so n oworries. Its literally impossible to screw up with these instructions. Google this; Vince Waldon How-to set your injection pump timing.

been running 20+psi on a stock gasket and bolts for YEARS now..

[Rising]

I have for sure heard of 20psi running safely on fiber gaskets and stock head bolts. You should be a-ok with stock stuff no problem. I wouldn't waste the money.

The oil leak is most certainly not a critical spot, however it would be wise to make sure it is not leaking towards the trans at all. If the oil gets down in between the block and bell housing and gets on the clutch disk it will wreck it in short order. Had one fail from this same issue in 3 weeks. I had a heavy leak though. If you just make sure it drains away from there, you will be alright to fix that one at your convenience.

There are MANY great threads on how to do your own timing, so n oworries. Its literally impossible to screw up with these instructions. Google this; Vince Waldon How-to set your injection pump timing.

Yes excellent! I actually had that link bookmarked for the job! I'm definitely going to do the timing belt and just get it out of the way. And then i'll worry about the headgasket when I have reason to

I have for sure heard of 20psi running safely on fiber gaskets and stock head bolts. You should be a-ok with stock stuff no problem. I wouldn't waste the money.

The oil leak is most certainly not a critical spot, however it would be wise to make sure it is not leaking towards the trans at all. If the oil gets down in between the block and bell housing and gets on the clutch disk it will wreck it in short order. Had one fail from this same issue in 3 weeks. I had a heavy leak though. If you just make sure it drains away from there, you will be alright to fix that one at your convenience.

There are MANY great threads on how to do your own timing, so n oworries. Its literally impossible to screw up with these instructions. Google this; Vince Waldon How-to set your injection pump timing.

been running 20+psi on a stock gasket and bolts for YEARS now..

Okay so i should be good on that too. Didn't you have a vnt on your car for awhile? How high will it boost with the vanes left open? Do I need to grab a boost gauge before the install? And does anyone have a recommendation on boost gauges (since everyone loves the micro-1000 aircraftspruce egt probe i thought i'd ask.)

[billybobf]

I bought the ebay setup for 30 bucks, I will weigh in on it when I get it and put it in

[Rising]

Okay so I have another problem :
I seem to be boiling my coolant. I think I have too much water and not enough antifreeze but I still don't see why it would be getting that hot. It seems like I'm losing alot of coolant too. It doesn't leak but when I drive it boils out of the reservoir pretty quickly.

I'm gonna try pulling the thermostat today and see if that helps... any other ideas? I don't think my fan is working right now either. But I would think that would only effect it at low speeds...

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[theman53]

Do not pull the T stat, it doesn't work that way. It has a bypass that will allow coolant to flow no matter what if you pull it.

Too much water actually cools better than a 50/50 mix of coolant and water. I would guess the rad is plugged or the HG failing...or the obvious not enough in the cooling system/water pump bad.

[Rising]

So if the thermostat is stuck closed pulling it wont let me check if it keeps cool?

Also how could I check for blockages? Water hose in the radiator? Is there a special method to filling these coolant systems? Maybe I never filled it right after I installed the radiator?

I need to get a Bentley so bad. I can't find one for cheaper than like 50 bucks and this how to keep your rabbit alive book is no help with these things.
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[theman53]

If you look at the water pump housing you will see that there are a bunch of places for the water to flow. If you also look at a T stat you will see that it has a deal on the bottom that routes water differently when open. If you take out the T stat then water flows everywhere and it will overheat...one of mine did anyway.

I would take off the hoses to the rad and run water in the top one. Also wouldn't hurt to look inside of it and see if it looks like something would flow through it.

When running is there a stream of water going into your coolant bottle? If not it could be the water pump.

[Rising]

Okay well that makes a lot more sense.

I ran the hose through he radiator and it flowed well through to the other side. No luck.

It isn't a steam of water its like little squirts every once in awhile. Could it be I didn't get the vbelt tight enough? It spins the pulleys but there is some slack...its not crazy tight.

If a picture says a thousand words and a video shows a thousand pictures... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNls5uXsMJI&feature=youtube_gdata_player

That's a video of what's happening

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[theman53]

I would say your head gasket is done, or there isn't enough water. How long was it running before that? It was boiling. Also the oil light was on...normal for you?

[Rising]

Yeah that's what I thought. It doesn't start boiling till it has heated up. So I don't think the headgasket is blown enough to pressurized the coolant system.

It had been running about 5 minutes and then I took it for a quick drive about a 1/4 mile up the road and back. To see if it would start acting up haha.

The oil light is on with a buzzer which means high pressure sensor but it only does it after the car is warmed up and goes off as the rpms rise. So unless somehow I'm getting crazy high oil pressure at idle.. I think its a faulty sensor. I just can't find the right pressure sensor to replace it...

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[ORCoaster]

Man that bubbling from the bottom of the overflow sure looks like a blown head gasket to me.  Like someone had an air hose on it.

[Rising]

Yeah I think I'm in for a headgasket job this weekend. Is it possible for me to drive the car to work for the week? Or is that too risky? I think it'll take at least a couple days to get one.


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[ORCoaster]

How far?  These things heat up quick and yours is puking water all over the place.  Can you pack 30 gallons of water and keep adding it every block?   I would park it and get parts.  Time to car pool or bike to work.  The more it does this the potential of head warp goes up.  If it isn't already there.

[Rising]

well. What's the beat brand or place to order a headgasket from?

How do I tell which one? Or just order a 3?

Will I need to have a machine shop check the head or can I do that myself? How long does a HG job take? Anything else to do while I'm at it beside the timing belt
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[8v-of-fury]

Looks like you are running 100% water there.. If so, no wonder it is boiling over..! lol

Why do you not run any coolant my friend??