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connecting rod damn-age
by
wdkingery
on 05 Apr, 2012 08:42
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#1
by
somolovitch3
on 05 Apr, 2012 11:57
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Can You Say , , , , ,, , , ,, , , , , , , ,[bAd things] ?
If the piss-ton will not go up-down-up-down by hand, see above.
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#2
by
wdkingery
on 05 Apr, 2012 13:18
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Can You Say , , , , ,, , , ,, , , , , , , ,[bAd things] ?
If the piss-ton will not go up-down-up-down by hand, see above.
lol the obvious has been stated, now on to the questions..
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#3
by
maxfax
on 05 Apr, 2012 15:43
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My biggest worry on that would be that the big end is out of round to some degree.. On another note you may want to check weights on your current set of rods and the replacement rod to make sure they're in the ballpark (I forget how much tolerance they say for these) of one another... AS far as the bushing, they rarely ever have issues and need replacing.. Give it a visual check and stuff a wrist pin in there and see how the fitment is... Get your eagle eyes on that piston too.. Make sure none of the ring lands have cracked..
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#4
by
RabbitJockey
on 05 Apr, 2012 17:58
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u gotta take that to a machine shop if u wanna re use, they might be able to resize it for you by shaving down the effed up and then reboring the hole. but i dunno, its probably a paper weight now. or a cool new shifter haha.
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#5
by
theman53
on 05 Apr, 2012 18:01
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What does the bore look like?
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#6
by
ORCoaster
on 05 Apr, 2012 18:54
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Rule 23.6 Mechanics have wrenches and carpenters have hammers. Do not cross train.
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#7
by
pointynoggin
on 05 Apr, 2012 20:49
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I wouldn't sweat it. You will need to remove the metal that was deformed above the surface of the bore. I wouldn't use sand paper because you will remove more than required and in the wrong spots. I would use a fine sharp round faced file and use a utility knife blade to check for high spots.
The bearing will distribute the load so the pits will be ok. Make sure to plastigage it.
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#8
by
billybobf
on 05 Apr, 2012 21:13
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you know the rebuild thread for injectors, back when I was building engines, we would de glaze the main caps on a flat plate with like 1k grit sandpaper. could do the same thing, piece of glass and 1k grit paper with some wd40 on it, got a three stone cylinder hone? how about an inside mic or dial bore guage? lol you could sand the flat surface an side surfaces of the rod, then plasti gauge it?
if there are a few nicks on the bearing surface you could clean them up too? Ive considered a basic cylinder hone to deglaze. even sand caps and deglaze to repair slightly stretched caps but have never tried it.
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#9
by
pointynoggin
on 06 Apr, 2012 06:44
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I thought the damage was in bearing seat. now I see the damage on the rod/cap mating surface. I'd try the glass plate and sand paper. You can dye the surface with a sharpie so you can see when you get to the good surface and stop.
Stress wise you should be fine that is a strong part of the rod.
othewise take it and the cap to a machine shop.
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#10
by
theman53
on 06 Apr, 2012 07:13
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FWIW, this is what I consider a critical engine part and I wouldn't skimp personally. I would take it to a shop for no other reason than to have peace of mind that it was perfect. Might even have someon to fall back on if it fails, instead of standing there with a hole in your block thinking I shouldn't have done that.
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#11
by
wdkingery
on 06 Apr, 2012 07:49
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Hey OP here, was curious about the bushing in the skinny end of the rod. Have new rod, don't have new bushing. Can use old bushing?
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#12
by
billybobf
on 06 Apr, 2012 08:06
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Probably not normally they are Pressed in but bushings are normally cheap? Like 8 bucks or less plus install
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#13
by
ffgb
on 06 Apr, 2012 12:58
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I would just bring all four rods in to get them resized. I did that for my rods because I had new ARP rod bolts installed, along with getting the small end re-bushed, cost was $25 for all four.
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#14
by
wdkingery
on 06 Apr, 2012 16:02
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Ebay rod had bushing.. All good
