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#30
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 17 Mar, 2012 00:16
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So I can weld up a 5/8" barb and it will be fine?
If you get the factory Mk1 hose that connects to that outlet - it necks down to 5/8" if i'm not mistaken. Then you could just use a coupler/union from there.
If that helps any. The hose is $5-8.
The faktry TD heads had better alloy in the casting, harder more heat tolerant valve seats, sodium filled stems, and different size pre-cups / pre-chambers.
We know that NA heads will survive TD applications.
But its a bonus to have the TD head.
Just like its a bonus to have the TD block.
Your vac pump had me wondering how correct the rest of the stuff was.
Your oil filter stand is TD too.
Do you have the water cooled sandwich oil cooler for it ?
The metal distribution pipe for coolant hose connections, and the special coolant hoses ?
All that stuff can be bought new, if you need it.
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#31
by
roachie
on 17 Mar, 2012 01:28
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Ah, that is all very good news.
I think that the firewall clearance will be too tight to run a VW water outlet on the head at the rear unless they make one that has a 90* turn. Otherwise I will be dragging out the tig, probably just weld up that pressure relief valve while I'm at it.
I would assume that pump was left over from one of the 5 or 6 rabbits that guy parted out. The p/n on the turbo puts the engine at 1987 ish but that contradicts what I have read on the hydraulic heads. I do have the sandwich oil cooler and the metal tube with an outlet for it. On that subject, are these oil coolers something that fails regularly or is it safe to just reuse the one I have?
The boxes that came with it had alot of odd little parts. Still sorting through them finding little brackets and the occasional bolt (I'm missing many of the external ones). At one point I picked up what I thought was the harmonic balancer, after looking at it and the crank for a minute I realized I was holding a brake rotor for a rabbit..............Ive been working on cummins engines way to much.
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#32
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 17 Mar, 2012 02:38
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LMAO on the brake rotor deal ! Good one
The TD did use a specific Harmonic Balancer - vs. NA application.
The Mk1 hose i mentioned does make a quick 90* molded turn.
But idunno if any of the outlets are made with 90* turns.
The hoses for the Distribution Pipe and Oil Cooler, etc....
I'd get the Mk2 versions.
Tigging the Over-Boost Valve area is a great fix.
There is a Billet Block-Off Cap made that uses the existing VBand - but its about $40. iirc
In USA we only got 85 86 TD and 91 92 ECO - and i always forget to get head info from the ECO's when i have had the chances. So your turbocharger could be from a Canadian 1987 TD. Or a Service Replacement from VW - cast in 1987.
Or your whole engine may have been of Canadian origin.
On the passenger side of your head next to where it says Germany - those circles with numbers imbedded - if you can get a close up picture of that spot - sometimes i can decipher the casting date from them. If you want to give it a try.
Have found casting dates on TD Intakes, and seems like the exh mans too.
Never found a casting date on any VW Dzl block.
The oil coolers condition are subjective to previous neglect.
As long as a cooling system was always maintained decently, they should hold up fine. Maybe fill the coolant section with lacquer thinner or mineral spirits and let it stand for a couple days, then observe. Whatever fluid you know of that has the highest viscosity (thinnest).
I've not had any problems with vintage ones yet. But others have.
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#33
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 17 Mar, 2012 10:05
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The head casting on my 92 Ecodiesel head is:
068 103 373 T
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#34
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 17 Mar, 2012 14:06
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Thanks for that info 92EDJ.
I had presumed they used the T head on ECO.
But only had 2 past examples to base that on.
Would like to get about 4-5 more originals found with T , so it doesn't fall into a claim - vs. a fact - before i start spewing it. lol
Probably should have mentioned the 83 84 TD also in USA to keep everything accurate.
And maybe a few 82 Quantums ?
Canada had TD option every year from at minimum - 83 to 97.
We got shanked hard on that.
==================
If anyone has a block without a flywheel or tranny attached -
there "MIGHT" be a casting date on the block within that area that the flywheel conceals. Its the only area i haven't been able to check for one yet.
And its only a wild guess at this point.
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#35
by
roachie
on 22 Mar, 2012 12:26
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I'll see if I can remember to snap a pic today.
It seems I have an issue with using the vane pump. The hole in my block is not near big enough for it. So I guess the diaphram pump will be getting rebuilt.
I have a nice vane pump for sale if anyone wants a spare.
And the pump shop finally got my stuff done, they swapped the cam plate and some other things while inside of it. Should be interesting. Now if I can just find a low pressure turbo the right size for it I will be set.
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#36
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 25 Mar, 2012 01:15
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It seems I have an issue with using the vane pump. The hole in my block is not near big enough for it. So I guess the diaphram pump will be getting rebuilt.
I have never heard of that before.
And this is a hyd TD block.
Strange as he[[
Anyone have any ideas about this ?
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#37
by
MJF
on 25 Mar, 2012 04:48
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It's 1,9 pump.
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#38
by
bajacalal
on 25 Mar, 2012 21:20
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My PartsPlace catalog lists 2 vacuum pumps (vane style), one for 80-92 1.6 engines (what about the late 70s engines?) and one for 93-99 1.9 and TDI.
The part number of the pump would confirm which one it is.
My guess is that it was a TDI pump but I'm genuinely concerned, I bought a bunch of stuff from a guy parting out a turbo 1.6 and he was also building a TDI to replace the 1.6TD. Did I get his TDI pump?
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#39
by
roachie
on 26 Mar, 2012 19:41
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I didnt grab the P/N try to remember tomorrow. It has to be for a TDI as the oring sealing area is completely different from the other pump and the drive gear is about .25" larger than the hole it goes in.
Little update on the truck, I got the engine in the truck, had to clearance the hell out of the oil pan. Also found out I have zero room for compound chargers with out getting a little creative with the plumbing. And the motor mounts will be a major PIA.
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#40
by
billybobf
on 30 Mar, 2012 01:26
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HEY, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE find a VW TARO badge for that thing PLEASE, would be SO HOT.
I might end up doing the same thing but with a N/A 1.6, will be GUTLESS.
Kinda posting just to follow, but also wanted to comment on the vw taro badge.
Also, since a few other people are following that know the glow plug setup, on my last rig that had a dash fire that ate everything, I had fast glow plugs and I just hooked up a heavy wire from the starter solenoid that put power to the plugs while the starter was turning. when I let off on the starter it was running. worked very well while i had the rig? any risk? too much load on the starter solenoid?
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#41
by
JamesT
on 02 Apr, 2012 19:36
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What are you doing to make up the oil capacity that's lost to the clearancing? It looks like you loose nearly half a litre of capacity.
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#42
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 03 Apr, 2012 13:59
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What are you doing to make up the oil capacity that's lost to the clearancing? It looks like you loose nearly half a litre of capacity.
do a straight axle conversion, and run a normal oil pan...
that would fix the issues..
its that stupid, weak IFS differential getting in the way, making the cut-out pretty necessary in the pan..
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#43
by
roachie
on 03 Apr, 2012 22:34
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VW Taro badge? I need more info on that.
The best solution I have to fix the oil loss from that notch is too install a remote oversize oil filter but that has its own issues.
I am not SAS swapping this truck. The web wheelers can have that, for what I do IFS is perfect.
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#44
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 03 Apr, 2012 22:45
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VW Taro badge? I need more info on that.
The best solution I have to fix the oil loss from that notch is too install a remote oversize oil filter but that has its own issues.
I am not SAS swapping this truck. The web wheelers can have that, for what I do IFS is perfect.
i wasnt suggesting you do a SAS.. i was just saying that is one way to avoid hacking up an oil pan. was being sarcastic really.
the front differentials in IFS are weak tho. if you ask too much out of them, then you end up picking ring gear teeth out of the differential housing.. ive done it MANY times.. my 3.0 V6 decimates front diffs..
and you really should google search "VW Taro pickup"
they are just re-badged mid 90s toyotas..