1.6TD into a toyota, some assistance needed.

[roachie]

I'll just stay away from Hans then, I was looking for the gasket for the manifold to turbo and wound up there. I bought everything else from napa to rebuild it other than bearings (were not needed).  BTW does anyone have a NAPA p/n for that one or the oem p/n?

My injectors are with the pump getting checked over as well. They had a lot of barn dust in the inlets so I sent them off to be redone.

I have a valve cover with the hockey puck breather, but the one on the engine was in with the boxes of parts and I just used it....mostly because I thought it looked a bit cleaner esthetically. And I do have an oil deflector luckily.

I will check the head number if I can remember tomorrow. And I was wanting to get rid of that bus bar, what gauge wire do they need per plug 10awg?

Anyone have a spec for crank endplay (thrust)? I think mine is a hair more than it should be.

And has anyone ran compounds on one of these? Having issues finding info on it other than bench racing about it.


I really do appreciate the help from you all.

$50. I'll include U.S. shipping with that.

It looks brand new but how do you test these? I'm thinking they don't pull a lot of vacuum until you spin it pretty fast.

If you're interested I'll try to post a photo tomorrow too.

Also, your coolant temp sensors, the ones with the spade connectors, what are they from? I have the other kind with the button connectors and I don't like them because they fall off.

You have a PM. And the top sensor on the head is from my toyota, the other I have no idea, it was on it when I got it. I has two blades for female connectors though. 

[R.O.R-2.0]

no gasket between the turbo and manifold..

[Baron VonZeppelin]

10 gauge is good for running seperate leads to each Gplug.

Here's a version of Pimp you can check out, and use some or all of his ideas.
Vince is a member/moderator here.

http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=30&Itemid=28

[Baron VonZeppelin]

He has a number of good pictoral/tutorials on other stuff too.
He's a VW afficionado hardcore.

A list of them on the homepage
http://vincewaldon.com

[roachie]

Thanks for the links. Good info there, still debating if I will run the glow plugs or hook up an ether system. 

I checked my head today and it has a "T " suffix. Does that mean anything significant? 

[rodpaslow]

My $.02 ether system not recommended by VW for the idi engines -FYI.

[Baron VonZeppelin]

T is the faktry Hydraulic TD head. Bonus Points.

I'd stick with an electrical Glow Plug system.
They work very well.

Vince's system is somewhat elaborate.
The biggest/main weakness with stock system is the buss bar.
Lotta guys just run single leads connected from the main lead wire (wire that connects to buss bar).

The singles give you the ability to check Gplugs individually later down the road. And it makes removal/installation easier too.

And i forgot you're using a Toyota body that never had any diesel provisions to begin with.

I have made manual systems with a 50amp toggle and 50amp self-reset breaker for under $15 using AutoZone parts. Many different ways to set one up - just whatever fits the budget and needs.

[roachie]

T is the faktry Hydraulic TD head. Bonus Points.

And i forgot you're using a Toyota body that never had any diesel provisions to begin with.

I have made manual systems with a 50amp toggle and 50amp self-reset breaker for under $15 using AutoZone parts. Many different ways to set one up - just whatever fits the budget and needs.

What is so special about that head?

I'll have to start accumulating parts for the glow plug system, I never have found a timer to rig up for one in a conversion and that always bugs me.

I think I have located a suitable low pressure turbo for the twins. Finding room for it on the truck will be an adventure.

Apparently the only place I can find an exhaust gasket is hans, $8 for both turbo gaskets. There is no way this can seal without a gasket.

[bajacalal]

Well, it's got hydraulic lifters, the earlier heads have solid lifters and require regular adjustments. The other part is that it's a real turbo head, from a turbo car. They are slightly different, have sodium cooled valves... They're rare in the United States.

I'm shipping your part today. Just so you know, it goes where the distributor goes on a gas VW engine. The blocks are really similar, a lot of the gas stuff fits.

I don't think that gasket is terribly necessary but you can run one if you like. Or, you can use hi-temp RTV.

My Bentley manual doesn't have specs for end play, just axial play. It just says that it does have thrust washers so I'm guessing there is no adjustment for it.

Also, no ether, ever. There's just no good reason for it on any engine you care about. Old tractors and stuff like that used those fire in the hole starting systems but that was when glow plugs were not as advanced as they are today and when diesel engines did not have very high compression. Your engine has extremely high compression, even for a diesel. They are not known for being difficult to start, when everything is working properly. If you want to add additional starting heat, consider a glow coil like the Dodge Cummins or Ford Powerstrokes have, in the latter case they're like spark plugs with a coil on the end of them and heat the air as it passes through the intake.

[roachie]

Ah, thanks for the info, and the part. I'll just use the glow plug system, though I am a firm believer that ether isnt the devil.

Got a call that they were starting on my pump today, and all of my injector tips needed to be replaced, just lovely. And hopefully my adapter plate will be here soon. I started cutting steel for the motor mounts today. Trying to figure out how I am going to mount the A/C compressor and power steering pump.

[theman53]

Just an FYI

When I was a young member here I asked about casting numbers and suffixes. Small block chevys are great at listing casting #s and differences in them, so I figured most mfg's would be the same. The conclusion was that there is no rhyme or reason in the names VW gave to them. Although MOST that had the suffix T are turbo heads, and all I have ever heard of, there is no where anyone could point to in an EKTA or VW manual that states it as so. IIRC all the mech 12mm heads I have seen with the suffix F have been turbo heads, but again no real data to say that all were.

[roachie]

The only oem I have seen that keeps any tabs on P/N's is cummins. Even then they have no idea what engine serial number got the bad block castings. Meh, the important thing is that it has a turbo and will soon have two turbos.

I do need to ask before I for get this, the water outlet at the end of the head.....where does that go on an oem application? I keep thinking it went to the heater core or back down to the water pump.

[CrazyAndy]

The cylinder head coolant outlet at the end of the head goes to the heater core in a stock transvers VW arrangement.  The other end of the core joins up via hose and a metal pipe at either the water pump or oil cooler depending on if you have one or not.

[roachie]

So I can weld up a 5/8" barb and it will be fine?

What is this round thing on the intake manifold that attaches with a small Vband? It looks like a valve of some kind.

[fatmobile]

That's a pressure relief valve for when boost gets too high.
 You can pull the screw in the center, remove the spring and replace it with a small bolt and tighten down the screw again.