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1.6TD into a toyota, some assistance needed.
by
roachie
on 07 Mar, 2012 19:49
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Ive searched and searched to no avail on here. Let me preface this by saying that this is far from my first swap, or performance diesel, but I am very new to the VW stuff. From what I can tell I have an 87ish engine from a Jetta, it is a factory turbo engine, has oil squirters in the block and has a hydraulic head. When I bought the engine is was apart and there are a few things I need answers too.
My cam shaft, injection pump, and intermediate shaft have keyways but I have no keys. I then noticed that at least one pulley does not have a key way in it. All or just some?
Next, I have what appears to be a vacuum pump at the flywheel end of the engine?
Can anyone tell me what the maximum inlet pressure on the injection pump is? I know that the dodge VE pump can take 500psi, my stock pump on the yota makes about 96. Not real sure what it needs for a supply pressure.
Any help is greatly appreciated. And for those that want to know, the engine has ARP cosworth studs and I have the pump at a shop right now getting maxed and benched. Compound turbos are in the works for it also. Trying to get 150hp or so from it.
here is the engine currently.
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#1
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 07 Mar, 2012 19:58
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whoever told you that a bosch VE pump can handle 500 psi inlet pressure, is very high on something..
i wouldnt run anything more than like 20-30 psi inlet pressure, just to be sure that the input shaft seal isnt going to pop out..
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#2
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Mar, 2012 20:32
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The intermediate shaft and pulley should have a key, as well as the injection pump pulley. The camshaft has a key way, but does not get a key. It is a pressure fit alone.
20-30psi on the very high side of things for inlet pressure.
Yes that is a vacuum pump on the flywheel side. It is driven by the intermediate shaft and drives the oil pump by a key in the bottom of it.
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#3
by
roachie
on 07 Mar, 2012 20:34
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I thought he was a bit high but I have seen others running close to 100 without issues.
Thanks for the info on the keyways. Are rebuild kits for the vacuum pump available or is it a replace only type thing?
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#4
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Mar, 2012 20:38
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Well I do recall reading somewhere that Giles tested this theory, and the extra psi does nothing for our pumps.
The pumps are rebuildable, but I would suggest using that effort towards replacing it with a newer style vacuum pump. They are found in the later mk2's, and are called a Vane vacuum pump as opposed to the diaphragm pump you have. The diaphragm ones fail often and are just not as good, which is why VW replaced them
lol. The vane pumps are non serviceable, but hardly ever fail.
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#5
by
410
on 07 Mar, 2012 20:45
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The pump on these engines have a lift pump built right into the pump. But, from my experience the pump has a hard time sucking enough fuel from the tank on its own. My suggestion would be an electric lift pump designed for a carburetor. 3-8 psi is ideal but 90 is definitely on the high side. I ran a pump from a cummins 24 valve which put out around 12 psi and it was great except for the noise.
The camshaft has a keyway but the pulley doesn't. The cam pulley is a tapered fit and allows precise adjustment of valve timing. The injection pump and intermediate shaft have keyways and keys.
And yes that is a vacuum pump at the flywheel end of the engine.
I'm on my second vw powered toyota and once the second one is done I have a 4runner to do next. I'm almost done with the second one and it has a compound turbo setup as well. If you have any questions I'd be happy to help out.
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#6
by
roachie
on 07 Mar, 2012 20:52
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Makes me wish I hadnt thrown all those 24v pumps out now. I will start looking for a new vacuum pump.
How is yours for power? I am am a little concerned about that part, everything else seems rather simple.
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#7
by
410
on 07 Mar, 2012 20:59
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The first one was a mechanical tdi with a vnt turbo and the power was unreal. The second one that we're still working on is electronically controlled with compound turbos. It's a few days away from a real test drive so don't know for sure but it should also be unreal. I've seen at least one build with the 1.6 and power was more than acceptable.
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#8
by
bajacalal
on 07 Mar, 2012 21:16
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Makes me wish I hadnt thrown all those 24v pumps out now. I will start looking for a new vacuum pump.
How is yours for power? I am am a little concerned about that part, everything else seems rather simple.
Where are you located? I have a vane pump I'm not using.
edit: they're available new if you want to go that route but they're expensive.
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#9
by
roachie
on 07 Mar, 2012 21:32
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Im in TN, 37820. How much would you want for it?
And while I'm asking, has anyone here used Hans Diesel for parts? They seem suspiciously cheap.
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#10
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Mar, 2012 22:15
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Im in TN, 37820. How much would you want for it?
And while I'm asking, has anyone here used Hans Diesel for parts? They seem suspiciously cheap.
Cheap for a reason
. Really depends on the parts. I'd ask around here and the vortex about the particular part you are looking at to see if it has a failure rate.
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#11
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 07 Mar, 2012 22:43
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Hans = Prothe of NC
Cheap prices and cheaper parts.
About 5-10% of his stuff is okay - just ask.
His Injectors have gotten some good reports - looks like you might need some. Get regular TD 155 bar - not MercBenz nozzles he offers.
AutohausAZ.com and RockAuto.com have about same prices on most all the same stuff - but known euro brand names.
What is the suffix on the part number on your cylinder head ?
068 103 373 B = example
Too bad about the diaphragm Vac Pump
All TD's came with Vane, and all 85-newer NA had them also.
TD valve cover is different than yours, but may not matter in your application. They had a hockey puck oil breather on pass side with an outlet hose that went to turbo air intake snorkel.
Pimp the glow plug wires and get rid of the 1 piece buss bar.
Use ONLY Bosch glow plugs.
Duraterms are the best for about $1 more.
If you don't already have one - get an oil deflector that goes on top of camshaft - under valve cover. $5-10 new
.
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#12
by
bajacalal
on 07 Mar, 2012 23:21
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Im in TN, 37820. How much would you want for it?
And while I'm asking, has anyone here used Hans Diesel for parts? They seem suspiciously cheap.
$50. I'll include U.S. shipping with that.
It looks brand new but how do you test these? I'm thinking they don't pull a lot of vacuum until you spin it pretty fast.
If you're interested I'll try to post a photo tomorrow too.
Also, your coolant temp sensors, the ones with the spade connectors, what are they from? I have the other kind with the button connectors and I don't like them because they fall off.
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#13
by
745 turbogreasel
on 07 Mar, 2012 23:38
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TD valve cover is different than yours, but may not matter in your application. They had a hockey puck oil breather on pass side with an outlet hose that went to turbo air intake snorkel.
If you don't have the plastic oil splash baffle under the valve cover, you might want to get one.
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#14
by
theman53
on 08 Mar, 2012 04:57
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Giles did do a test with input pressure on our pumps. The result was it had the ability for instant advance. It didn't change the overall advance as the pressure was constant on both sides of the pump and total advance *from what I have heard* is a relationship between the 2 sides and the difference of them.
Summary: Low pressure lift pump is a good thing for our VE pump.