Quoteit does smoke on first start up but once its driven, not even 100 yrds. its smoke free. True, it'll fart and studder on first startGood to get the truth 'straight from the horses mouth' - different story to what others were saying. That is exactly the same as mine runs and I'm not prepared to live with it - it looks and sounds awful.I'm on 2 notch but worried that 1 notch may just get the pistons and valves untited - or is there lots of clearance?The other problem is that step where 1.6 bore meets the 1.9 chamber and the squish is all wrong - that cant help combustion.I've hopefully got a spare cold advance cam on the way, I'll re-profile that to give a few degrees more advance over stockI really don't want to go for a block heater its not convenient - besides it doesn't get cold enough here to even warrant pulling the cold advance on a stock motor
it does smoke on first start up but once its driven, not even 100 yrds. its smoke free. True, it'll fart and studder on first start
Reg why did you not stick to the GTD pump and just turn up the power
QuoteReg why did you not stick to the GTD pump and just turn up the powerDo you mean stick to the GTD head?Ironically I never had a GTD pump at the time, the AAZ one is just fine.I'm going to try the cold advance mod and if that doesn't work, I'll port the GTD head and return to that.
Not that you have many straight roads down your way to get any speed up
I am thinking of solving this pesky problem once and for all. Exhaust is hot, regardless of weather. I was trying to think of a kind of radiator/interheater to flow a small amount of exhaust gas while the engine is cold and have a choke, either manual or automatic that controls pressure flow. This will necessitate a fully wrapped exhaust to prevent heat from escaping, as well as our modified heat exchanger. A box, modified to work inline with the intake will have to be modified to channel the colder air to be heated by the exhaust heat exchanger. Furthermore, a new type of glow plug is in the works by yours truly with unique properties, and a way to fully heat the combustion chamber regardless of outside temperature. For the time being, a water heater in the lower portion of the block is very useful as the convection of heat rising through the coolant will assist in heating the components above freezing. insulating other portions of the motor from heat will indeed keep cold out as well as heat in, inessence keeping the engine as adiabatic as possible.
if you aren't using the correct thickness gasket for the deck of your block i would never expect any diesel to start in cold winter weather nevermind a reduced compression 1.9/1.6 engine.
or the big head on a little body curse?