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#75
by
rodpaslow
on 23 Sep, 2011 13:52
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I will give that a try, the freezer thing. I'd like to be able to use it when its cold cause when it gets real cold here; anywhere from -20° to -40° is when it really starts to rattle/clack when the engine is cold. I usually run a bit of gel reducer at the -40 temps just in case, you don't want to be stranded when its that cold. I don't know if that's necessary with ULSD. Thanks for the tips.
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#76
by
mtrans
on 24 Sep, 2011 11:42
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I'd like to be able to use it when its cold cause when it gets real cold here; anywhere from -20° to -40° is when it really starts to rattle/clack when the engine is cold. I usually run a bit of gel reducer
I never put antygel in oil,try first in jar because it's design for ULSD.My max temp is -15c mostly,for drive oil on -40c your car need
GOOD MODIFICATION,which by way you didnt say world- please do.
remmember:heated fuel line,looped return etc
you will parhaps need to heat PICK up on tank,or all tank.I start and stop on ULSD,swich to oil on min 60c motor temp.Never mix wmo and wvo,use as mach (only?)atf as you can.
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#77
by
rodpaslow
on 27 Sep, 2011 13:58
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As for driving in, what I call cold (I know farther north gets colder yet and they have to run a mixture of stuff, not sure what) is between -35°C to -40°. It got about -35° with wind chill at about -50° and I was able to drive without adding any additive to thin the oil just this past winter. I had a diesel 10 to 15 years ago and it would run in that cold of temperature, but back then I had to add a bottle of something to keep it thinner. I think with ULSD I really don't need to. I didn't last winter....
I tried the mineral oil in the freezer. It was a bit thicker than temps now, but nowhere near a freezing point as there were no crystals (which I would expect) if it were near freezing. Good news for using it most of winter up here.
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#78
by
mtrans
on 28 Sep, 2011 10:17
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for drive oil on -40c your car need GOOD MODIFICATION,which by way you didnt say world- please do.
Your plan?
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#79
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Sep, 2011 20:17
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I think mtrans is looking for some sort of heater on your fuel. That would be nice, but? is it necessary?
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#80
by
rodpaslow
on 28 Sep, 2011 21:07
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I've ran it with no fuel heater last year and I don't plan to add one. I haven't had a hiccup yet with it so if it works don't change it. The only thing I do have which I'm sure most Canadians don't is two block heaters. When really cold I'm sure this helps. At -20 when it's plugged in for a couple hours the glow plugs don't even come on. I don't think this helps a fuel gelling issue though if it happens.
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#81
by
mtrans
on 29 Sep, 2011 11:34
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I think mtrans is looking for some sort of heater on your fuel. That would be nice, but? is it necessary?
Yes you are on spot.
rodpaslow
Yes this helps,water webasto is another thing even better,but every bit of heat before IP is huge help(after also but hard too).
One can put raw oil and drive but q is how long?
Do you use 2 tank?
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#82
by
AudiVWguy
on 29 Sep, 2011 19:20
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Say you have a Giles Superpump, do you think the paraffin would be a problem because the internal pump pressure is within specs. I see there would be a Cetane and lubrication advantage, but the dynamic timing would get out of spec (maybe)?
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#83
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 29 Sep, 2011 19:49
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it would probably be overly advanced at some point in the RPM range..
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#84
by
ORCoaster
on 29 Sep, 2011 20:16
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The Wax treatment is mainly for compensating for wear on the old IP's we run. That and the ULSD fuel we are running. I would think the other methods of increasing cetane might be of value if your pump is within specs at low and high RPM's
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#85
by
AudiVWguy
on 30 Sep, 2011 11:31
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Ya, that's kinda what I was thinking too. So, from a most Cetane stand point, how would you rank what"s out there?
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#86
by
rodpaslow
on 30 Sep, 2011 11:35
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I'd be interested in best cetane adders as well. I mainly use the mineral oil (parrafin) for the lubrication since ULSD has lost so much of it.
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#87
by
mtrans
on 30 Sep, 2011 12:40
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#88
by
AudiVWguy
on 03 Oct, 2011 19:50
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Anybody tried 2-ethylhexyl nitrate yet? So how many ounces per 10 gal would this be? This could be a great solution, if it's not super expensive.
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#89
by
rodpaslow
on 04 Oct, 2011 08:53
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