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How to properly set the IP
by
8v-of-fury
on 18 Jul, 2011 20:10
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I have messed around with all the adjustments on my 1.6 n/a pump... and I think it is far from being ideal at the moment.. however I dont know exactly what makes what, and I am pretty sure I have my throttle arm in the wrong position and then the rest of the pump set up to compensate. Can you please help me?
Here is my current setup.. as you can see I have the Idle (back of the pump) as low (its bottomed on the pump lid almost) as it will go with aid on that shaft to make it go lower. I have the residual fuel screw also as low as it will go while still maintaining contact with the throttle lever. The max rev screw is also set to the point where it just contacts the lever at full throttle insuring my throttle inside the pump is physically being pulled to its full extension. I also have my governor shimmed completely solid.
What can you tell me from where I have my pump set? is the throttle lever in its right orientation to the throttle shaft?
The only reason I bring this up is after driving it for a while it almost seems like I have very little low end power (like a diesel is supposed to have), and i just get smoke if i give more pedal. It just feels WAY down on power all around.. please can you help?
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#1
by
745 turbogreasel
on 18 Jul, 2011 23:11
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The only reason I bring this up is after driving it for a while it almost seems like I have very little low end power (like a diesel is supposed to have), and i just get smoke if i give more pedal. It just feels WAY down on power all around.. please can you help?
Did you hear a boost tube pop off?
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#2
by
regcheeseman
on 19 Jul, 2011 03:19
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on an NA?
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#3
by
regcheeseman
on 19 Jul, 2011 03:23
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your spline 'looks about right'
the fuel screw looks wrong - have you moved the metal collar on it? If not, undo the lock nut and wind it in until the collar is tight against nut, then you will have original setting
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#4
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 19 Jul, 2011 04:47
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on an NA?
Perhaps he was going/driving through a severe depression
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#5
by
theman53
on 19 Jul, 2011 05:29
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This is how mine have acted. It has grunt but not snap.
I would check on advancing timing and maybe not completely solid on your main spring gov mod. Mine still has some movement. other than that the spline could be off for your pump. You could try to rotate it one spline and see if it helps. You can do that easily enough without opening anything.
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#6
by
8v-of-fury
on 19 Jul, 2011 07:12
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This is how mine have acted. It has grunt but not snap.
I would check on advancing timing and maybe not completely solid on your main spring gov mod. Mine still has some movement. other than that the spline could be off for your pump. You could try to rotate it one spline and see if it helps. You can do that easily enough without opening anything.
I don't think the full solid governor would have anything to do with this.. I think I just have my idle and residual set way too low, and the fuel in too far.. Its right at the point where another smidgen of fuel screw will hang the rpms between shifts.
Timing is set to like 0.040-0.041" and is VERY clack clackity, so i dont think more advance is the ticket either.
your spline 'looks about right'
the fuel screw looks wrong - have you moved the metal collar on it? If not, undo the lock nut and wind it in until the collar is tight against nut, then you will have original setting
The fuel screw is a few turns in from stock, I have both idle adjustments bottomed out. The MAX fuel is in so far to compensate, with an idle of around 975-1025 im guessing.
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#7
by
8v-of-fury
on 19 Jul, 2011 10:39
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So as it turns out, maxxing the max fuel screw with the lowest idle possible of the two settings and not hanging the idle is not the best your pump can do..
I bet you I took the max screw out about 2.5 full revolutions to where I am now and cranked in the throttle stop screw to compensate the idle.. It is the best spot I have had it yet. Good power all over the powerband instead of just up top, and loads more smoke on WOT than with the fuel screw in 2.5 more turns... WOWZA
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#8
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 19 Jul, 2011 13:01
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i dont have a residual fuel screw high idle screw, but the way i did it, was screw in the fuel screw until it hung rpms.. then i backed it out, and messed with it on the road. im right to the point where any more fuel screw would make it hang.. and i still have enough idle screw left that i can turn my idle down to about 300 rpms..
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#9
by
8v-of-fury
on 19 Jul, 2011 13:20
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The residual screw is the screw the throttle rests on when off throttle. Your pump doesn't have the idle adjustment on the backside of the pump then? I have that adjustment bottomed, and the throttle stop out a little further than stock.. The fuel screw is prob a turn in from stock now.. Ill update with new pics after work lol.
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#10
by
8v-of-fury
on 19 Jul, 2011 18:26
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Will it hang if you drop the idle that far and give a touch more fuel screw as well?
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#11
by
CRSMP5
on 19 Jul, 2011 20:30
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the center line of throttle shaft usually used middle line on throttle linkage.. not all to the one way that ive ever seen stock..
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#12
by
rabbitman
on 19 Jul, 2011 21:22
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The residual screw is the screw the throttle rests on when off throttle. Your pump doesn't have the idle adjustment on the backside of the pump then? I have that adjustment bottomed, and the throttle stop out a little further than stock.. The fuel screw is prob a turn in from stock now.. Ill update with new pics after work lol.
Looks like you have a newer pump with the idle up feature, way more confusing than the older ones.
On an old pump you have the max rpm screw, the idle screw and the residual fuel screw ( the one with the collar), unless I'm all messed up.
The pump on my '92 golf has the marks lined up the same as in your picture and I've never touched it.
Regcheeseman, I think the collar is only to limit the adjustment and rather than the factory setting. In fact when I bought a professionally rebuilt/calibrated pump the nut was not against the collar.
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#13
by
regcheeseman
on 20 Jul, 2011 05:49
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Regcheeseman, I think the collar is only to limit the adjustment and rather than the factory setting. In fact when I bought a professionally rebuilt/calibrated pump the nut was not against the collar.
I've never seen a factory pump with the collar NOT against the nut, the one you bought was not even factory 'stock' so how is that even relevant? I've seen a lot of pumps but I could be wrong...
That spline setting is also not uncommon, as a basic guide the slot in the top of the lever will normally turn nearly just parallel with the pumps shaft at full throttle. On pumps that have no baseline I use this to guide rebuilds
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#14
by
8v-of-fury
on 20 Jul, 2011 12:10
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Well I knew it went somewhere around there from when I took the lid off to swap on my N/A pump top.. But got it all mixed up when I tried several different settings.. Lol. Wherever I have it right now is cherrry. Cold started today without the glow-plugs (33c), and the idle is just a touch below where the alt kicks on and charges.. Loovein it. Power off idle for clutch engagement is solid, mid to high end is great too. I need to retrofit my 3" abs intake on this car now
it was a good increase on my other 1.6D I think that's gonna be my tomorrow project