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How do you survive in your mk1 rabbit/golf in the winter?
by
erice1984
on 14 Dec, 2010 18:51
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How does anyone survive in their mk1 Rabbit/Golf ?
I thought I could do this but the 1.5D doesn't heat up fast enough and the insulation inside the car sucks!
It is 0 degrees here and I have the defrost on so I can see out the windows, it doesn't heat the window up enough to melt the ice my scraper couldnt get to.
Help please! I don't want to sell this car just to get another "headache"
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#1
by
fatmobile
on 14 Dec, 2010 21:03
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Cardboard in front of the radiator.
Bubblewrap under the door cards.
Does it have a temp gauge? Is it getting up to temp on the highway?
Under 18F in stop and go traffic, it's common to lose engine temp.
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#2
by
maxfax
on 14 Dec, 2010 21:36
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All of the above, a good thermostat and a block heater.. If I'm somewhere that I can;t plug that in I have one of those 12v window defroster things that plug into the cig lighter.. Not real fast, but it helps..
I was (I suppose) fortunate enough to need a new headliner so while that was down I added some extra insulation to the roof as well..
Unfortunately, I'd still advise having a good winter coat..
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#3
by
AudiVWguy
on 14 Dec, 2010 21:38
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What he said.
What degree thermostat do you have installed?
Check for small air leaks in the firewall.
Make sure the heater air controls are actually working.
Cheers,
-JB
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#4
by
Wessty
on 15 Dec, 2010 14:08
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My past experience with my 82 diesel pickup, have been good. Good clean cooling system, reasonably few miles on a total engine rebuild. I've used it at -35C and had no issues with adequate heat or windshield frosting.
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#5
by
erice1984
on 15 Dec, 2010 14:34
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my thermostat is a Wahler 80*C from autohausaz.com 056121113A
I need a new door seal or a larger one on my driver door
Does anyone have problems with door seals fitting correctly ? I noticed my door has a washer between the hinge and mount on the frame so the door closes and latches easier. I suspect because of the chassis sagging or hinges bending over time... In this case would it be worth it to get a new door seal or not bother because they are $50. Although I can tell I lose a lot of heat because of the door seal.
Yeah I do have a few grommets that could be replaced on the firewall by my feet.
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#6
by
theman53
on 15 Dec, 2010 19:04
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Get it sealed up. The GTI that came from was warm, but the fan and resistor was junk. Also X 10 on the cardboard in front of the rad, it helps a ton.
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#7
by
erice1984
on 15 Dec, 2010 19:54
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#8
by
theman53
on 15 Dec, 2010 20:27
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not bad idea. I think the ones on the GTI were OK, not the best. I would send them to you for $5 plus shipping if you don't want new.
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#9
by
erice1984
on 15 Dec, 2010 20:36
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not bad idea. I think the ones on the GTI were OK, not the best. I would send them to you for $5 plus shipping if you don't want new.
Hrmm.
I think I am more convinced that I need both those seals, the main door one and the upper seal we already spoke of.
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#10
by
Rabbit79
on 15 Dec, 2010 23:00
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I get alot of cold air coming through those fresh air vents on each end of the dash. I never have torn into them to look where the air is coming through cause I'm just a little too lazy sometimes. Most of the time it's not a bother, but when it gets really cold out I notice it. As a temporary expedient I just duct taped them. Not very pretty to be sure, but it did get the job done. Be thankful you're not air cooled, on my old 70 Bug I had when I was a teenager I carried a window scraper to scrape the inside of the windows while I was driving, and had to do that pretty much constantly.
Oh and before anyone bashes on me, yes, I do have the handles in the closed position.
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#11
by
theman53
on 16 Dec, 2010 05:24
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Also, I forgot one, on the GTI you got the parts from it had vents in the door cards. I think to help it close and not be airtight, maybe to just vent. Either way they would let tons of cold air in all at floor level. I took them out and duct taped them from the inside and reinstalled them.
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#12
by
erice1984
on 16 Dec, 2010 11:37
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Also, I forgot one, on the GTI you got the parts from it had vents in the door cards. I think to help it close and not be airtight, maybe to just vent. Either way they would let tons of cold air in all at floor level. I took them out and duct taped them from the inside and reinstalled them.
Yeah, mine didnt have any plastic sheeting behind the doors. I got some 4mil or 6mil plastic from homedepot and put it on there. I used butyl rubber glue stuff on one door and headliner spray adhesive on the other door. I think the door with spray adhesive turned out better, and cleaner. If I need to get behind there I don't have to fight the uber sticky mess of butyl rubber.
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#13
by
rabbitman
on 16 Dec, 2010 11:52
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Yup, a hotter t-stat would be better. And X2 on the cardboard keeping air off the engine
I have those upper door seals but having never driven without 'em I can't comment on if it actually helps.
At about -20F or colder I can't keep the side windows clear but the windshield isn't a problem.
I'd try the bubble wrap, I have an aux heater and the stock heater and after it's comfortable inside I can still feel cold air on my arm by the door.
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#14
by
erice1984
on 16 Dec, 2010 12:06
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Yeah, I should have done the math from the get go on the tstat. 80C (176F) is definately on the colder side for ANY engine. Every other tstat I have seen is 195F and 180 is the colder option, like say you use the vehicle to tow stuff frequently.