-
#165
by
dankcorey22
on 17 Sep, 2011 16:01
-
Have you cracked the injector nuts and getting fuel out of there?
Yeah i have at the pump and the injectors. I dont have fuel at either
-
#166
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 17 Sep, 2011 16:51
-
Got everything back together but not trying to get it started... no luck I have fuel up to the pump by a Mr. Gasket lift pump. I have 10.5 volts at the fuel cut off and can hear it click. I just don't have fuel at the lines yet. Idk what else to try.. ive been trying for 2 hours.
Do you get fuel out of the out banjo?
-
#167
by
dankcorey22
on 17 Sep, 2011 18:11
-
Got everything back together but not trying to get it started... no luck I have fuel up to the pump by a Mr. Gasket lift pump. I have 10.5 volts at the fuel cut off and can hear it click. I just don't have fuel at the lines yet. Idk what else to try.. ive been trying for 2 hours.
Do you get fuel out of the out banjo?
Yes the banjo bolt on the top of the fuel filter housing.
-
#168
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 17 Sep, 2011 18:52
-
Put a Mityvac on the IP return and suck fuel out till no air, then crack an injector nut on one injector and crank till it starts. If you have it timed correctly and the glow plugs are working and battery /starter is good and you have fuel going to the injectors and the compression is good it should start.
-
#169
by
dankcorey22
on 17 Sep, 2011 21:40
-
But wouldn't my lift pump take place of the mightyvac? Instead of pulling a vacuum its just putting pressure on the pump. Ill try the mightyvac tomorrow.
-
#170
by
dankcorey22
on 18 Sep, 2011 05:22
-
is their any seals inside the pump that can go bad also? To make the fuel not make it to the plungers?
-
#171
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 18 Sep, 2011 06:48
-
But wouldn't my lift pump take place of the mightyvac? Instead of pulling a vacuum its just putting pressure on the pump. Ill try the mightyvac tomorrow.
Yes it would as long as you cracked the line at the IP return to bleed out air. Forgot you put in an elec pump. Did you remove the distributor head off the IP or just enough to expose the o-ring. If just enough to expose the o-ring, nothing internal should have been disturbed.
-
#172
by
dankcorey22
on 18 Sep, 2011 14:35
-
But wouldn't my lift pump take place of the mightyvac? Instead of pulling a vacuum its just putting pressure on the pump. Ill try the mightyvac tomorrow.
Yes it would as long as you cracked the line at the IP return to bleed out air. Forgot you put in an elec pump. Did you remove the distributor head off the IP or just enough to expose the o-ring. If just enough to expose the o-ring, nothing internal should have been disturbed.
I did remove the pump head all the way. But I put everything back in the exact place
-
#173
by
dankcorey22
on 18 Sep, 2011 15:05
-
I feel like burning this car up right now!!!! Im still not getting fuel to the injectors! With my lift pump I know there is fuel going to the pump now because there is fuel coming out of the return line without ANY bubbles! I suspect the pump is bad... thinking about another one. Ughhh
-
#174
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 18 Sep, 2011 15:53
-
I know how you feel. Maybe you have an air leak from seals you replaced. Plug the IP return and it should hold vac with Mityvac on the IP inlet. If it does not hold vac u have a leak. Find and fix it..
-
#175
by
damac
on 18 Sep, 2011 17:36
-
Did you pop your top off when you resealed the head to make sure you lined the tabs all up, and then turn it over with the pulley attached to make sure the tabs were lined up correctly? You can assemble things in wierd ways that can cause things to break at that last moment while tightning down that head. With the top off it makes it easy to make sure things are lined up and you can hold things in place with your other hand, etc.
With that being said when I had my pump off I dumped as much fuel as I could in before putting the top on, but also found that even after using the vacuum trick I easily would have drained down my battery without a charger hooked up the whole time. Pedal down the whole time and doing cranks without the glowplugs for 15 seconds at a time, and allowing it to cool down a few minutes inbetween. You want that healthy starter to spin over fast.
It still took me a couple hours to reprime my pump last time. It was very slow going until I got some slight seepage at a couple injectors and nothing was coming out of the last 2. I kept alternating with one line cracked, then not, then cracking another and was still finding some air escaping when I recracked a line. It was annoying but I kept at it and alternated around until finally that last one started seeping. Car still ran like crap in the beginning and chugged and the cold start lever helped for whatever reason. Finally was able to help it to life with some extra idle, let it sit a bit and took it for a good fast drive and all has been well now for weeks
-
#176
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 18 Sep, 2011 17:37
-
If you have fuel coming out of the banjo then the pump is already primed, and you don't need Mityvac or anything else.
Unscrew timing screw and see if hand cranking, or short starter cranking, gives you a gusher.
If not you have solenoid problems.
You may get fuel due to the fuel pump you have attached.
-
#177
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 18 Sep, 2011 18:28
-
Did you pop your top off when you resealed the head to make sure you lined the tabs all up, and then turn it over with the pulley attached to make sure the tabs were lined up correctly? You can assemble things in wierd ways that can cause things to break at that last moment while tightning down that head. With the top off it makes it easy to make sure things are lined up and you can hold things in place with your other hand, etc.
With that being said when I had my pump off I dumped as much fuel as I could in before putting the top on, but also found that even after using the vacuum trick I easily would have drained down my battery without a charger hooked up the whole time. Pedal down the whole time and doing cranks without the glowplugs for 15 seconds at a time, and allowing it to cool down a few minutes inbetween. You want that healthy starter to spin over fast.
It still took me a couple hours to reprime my pump last time. It was very slow going until I got some slight seepage at a couple injectors and nothing was coming out of the last 2. I kept alternating with one line cracked, then not, then cracking another and was still finding some air escaping when I recracked a line. It was annoying but I kept at it and alternated around until finally that last one started seeping. Car still ran like crap in the beginning and chugged and the cold start lever helped for whatever reason. Finally was able to help it to life with some extra idle, let it sit a bit and took it for a good fast drive and all has been well now for weeks
Not sure why it took couple of hours to prime your IP. When I replaced both o-rings on the advance piston covers and also replaced the main seal and timed the IP, it took less than a minute to get it primed and started. I didn't even use a Mityvac. All I did was leave injector nut #1 cracked open half a turn and cranked with glow plugs on for 15 seconds and it fired. I tightened the injector nut and it idled nice and smooth as I watch the air bubbles bleed itself out on the return line.
-
#178
by
damac
on 18 Sep, 2011 21:34
-
Did you pop your top off when you resealed the head to make sure you lined the tabs all up, and then turn it over with the pulley attached to make sure the tabs were lined up correctly? You can assemble things in wierd ways that can cause things to break at that last moment while tightning down that head. With the top off it makes it easy to make sure things are lined up and you can hold things in place with your other hand, etc.
With that being said when I had my pump off I dumped as much fuel as I could in before putting the top on, but also found that even after using the vacuum trick I easily would have drained down my battery without a charger hooked up the whole time. Pedal down the whole time and doing cranks without the glowplugs for 15 seconds at a time, and allowing it to cool down a few minutes inbetween. You want that healthy starter to spin over fast.
It still took me a couple hours to reprime my pump last time. It was very slow going until I got some slight seepage at a couple injectors and nothing was coming out of the last 2. I kept alternating with one line cracked, then not, then cracking another and was still finding some air escaping when I recracked a line. It was annoying but I kept at it and alternated around until finally that last one started seeping. Car still ran like crap in the beginning and chugged and the cold start lever helped for whatever reason. Finally was able to help it to life with some extra idle, let it sit a bit and took it for a good fast drive and all has been well now for weeks
Not sure why it took couple of hours to prime your IP. When I replaced both o-rings on the advance piston covers and also replaced the main seal and timed the IP, it took less than a minute to get it primed and started. I didn't even use a Mityvac. All I did was leave injector nut #1 cracked open half a turn and cranked with glow plugs on for 15 seconds and it fired. I tightened the injector nut and it idled nice and smooth as I watch the air bubbles bleed itself out on the return line.
I should have been more specific in my advice. I wait inbetween starter sessions so I don't burn anything out no matter what. And I had a sears charger hooked up when my batteries were low initially. It has electrical controls and for some reason it wasn't charging right after the initial hookup and would read 100% So I wasn't paying attention to the battery charge and turnover speed until it didn't want to do anything
So slow turnover rate definately hurt me that day, but I had to do my best to get the car on the road the next day. I also think starting out with a completely dry pump that I resealed leaves a tad bit more air as I could see it after the initial start.
-
#179
by
ORCoaster
on 19 Sep, 2011 19:39
-
I never try to start an engine I swap a pump out on or one I have rebuilt without pulling as much air out of the top of the banjo bolt as I can get. Even then it might take three cycles of the starter cranking on it to get me fuel to the top of the injectors. Weepy injectors means they are good to go. Tighten em up, hit the glows and crank again. Most of the time it is success at first or second crank.
I can't even think how long a dry pump would take to cycle diesel to the injectors.