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#150
by
dankcorey22
on 15 Sep, 2011 20:27
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Okay going to take the pump out then! Im dreading doing that haha!
You set the belt tension to an inch play? if so i got it right!
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#151
by
damac
on 15 Sep, 2011 21:22
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When you say the cold start isn't tracking or hitting, do you have the bushings on each side of the cylinder holding the cable? I didn't know these existed on some of my earlier used pumps until I came across a thread on a forum. Ordered them for less than $10 and now the cable tracks correctly and is easy to set!
And with that pump being taken apart, I learned this the hard way once. PUT IT IN A VICE SO YOU CAN'T KNOCK IT OVER!!
Because once you take that distribution head off, nothing holds the cam roller thing to the rollers and if you tipped it sideways they can all spill out! Not sure but some guy on ebay told me not to change the order of those parts.
Its up to you how far you go into the reseal job. You can do the turbo top later if need be. There is an oring inside the throttle lever that goes through the top bushing as well. You can do the cold start cover and opposite side. There is also one in the fuel screw.
Anyway when I got my jetta home it had been sitting for a while. It didn't leak until about a week later and sprung at the distribution head. I did it, then shortly after it was the cold start cover. Then the throttle shaft. So on my recent pump on my car I broke the whole damn thing down and cleaned it all and installed all new seals/washers to get it over with.
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#152
by
ORCoaster
on 15 Sep, 2011 21:30
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Take the pump off the car, yep, off the car. Set it up in a vise so it is standing up on it's nose or you will be loading the cam rollers and all those parts that have to line up ever so neatly with Vaseline to get them to stick in place against the force of gravity.
The first pump I rebuilt I didn't know squat about all that stuff and how it was aligned. I popped off the four bolts on the head and all the guts spilled out on the workbench. Rollers going everywhere and yes I broke the pump shaft putting it all back together again because the little shim wouldn't stay in place without the vaseline. So much learned after the fact. But now I would say do the whole rebuild thing off the car and you won't be wasting your time catching up with all the other seals that will, yes will be leaking later.
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#153
by
dankcorey22
on 16 Sep, 2011 07:06
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On the CS lever their are bushings holding the bracket for the cable... The actually lever on the pump is hitting the IP mounting bracket bolt. Im going to have to use a regular bolt instead of the allen bolt.
So, on this pump if i set it up right in the vice the rollers shouldn't fall out should they? what is the easiest seals and orings to replace on these pumps? I dont want to take the governer apart i know that is a pain in the ass to get back together.
Thanks for all the advice guys going to start on it after i get out of class today! ill post pics later. Video if i get it running
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#154
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 16 Sep, 2011 07:24
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If you position the IP with the distributor head pointing down and loosen the 4 bolts just enough to expose the o-ring. Wouldn't gravity keep that shim disc in place and undisturbed? Why take the head off completely and risk getting debri inside? If you use a viton o-ring, stretching it over the head is not an issue.
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#155
by
JessaBug
on 16 Sep, 2011 08:46
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Does anybody use that advance lever much anyways?! Before i rebuilt the engine i couldnt tell a difference with it pulled out or pushed in...
Even in NC, you'll want that to work. We use it almost all the time on a cold start, even in the summer months. But it is much, much easier to start in the winter using the CS cable, even here in NC and even after our rebuild. Glad you're sorting out. You should notice a difference if its working correctly.
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#156
by
ORCoaster
on 16 Sep, 2011 08:46
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Yeah you could just pull it off that way but it is risky. I wouldn't see a problem doing that as there are no other seals other than the front one that you normally have to replace and that can be done from the front. Look that trick up on here as well. The O ring on the top of the governor might be OK now and could be let go if not leaking. But sometime down the road it will so keep the kit handy.
The ones on the side are easy fixes, and since you are working on the cold start lever do that one. By the way I use my CSL all the time. I pull it out just before I hit the key to turn the car off as it is easy to do then with the engine running. Not so when it is not.
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#157
by
mtrans
on 16 Sep, 2011 12:01
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Roller thing is hard thing.Book say you can`t change placeses even.
I read that if you put M8 x 1 long bolt against same surface to hold plunger it can be done,but I like to put off IP.
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#158
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 16 Sep, 2011 13:21
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Roller thing is hard thing.Book say you can`t change placeses even.
I read that if you put M8 x 1 long bolt against same surface to hold plunger it can be done,but I like to put off IP.
good thing my old pump never read the book, because the rollers in it, were out of a TD pump. and it was a n/a pump body with a TD head.
lol..
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#159
by
ORCoaster
on 16 Sep, 2011 20:32
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My IP didn't read that Bentley any better. When the guts spilled out of it there was no way I was going to find mated parts. Pump doesn't seem to be any worse for the repair, car gets 49-50 mpg so I don't think I would follow that Bentley logic to close. But then that is just me.
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#160
by
dankcorey22
on 17 Sep, 2011 11:14
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Alright now ive just resealed the head, advance spring, advance leaver and pump shaft. Im not putting the pump in the car and getting ready to time it. Pump moves free but still kind of squicks when i spin it, but i think it did that before.
One question after i start it and warm it up to running temp. Does people retorque the head when its warm or let it cool back down first?
And what do you torque it to? I've got 12 mm bolts obviously
ive almost got this
cant wait!
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#161
by
mtrans
on 17 Sep, 2011 11:19
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My IP didn't read that Bentley any better.
My also didn`t.As usual I find that AFTER my first rebuild.
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#162
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 17 Sep, 2011 11:23
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My IP didn't read that Bentley any better. When the guts spilled out of it there was no way I was going to find mated parts. Pump doesn't seem to be any worse for the repair, car gets 49-50 mpg so I don't think I would follow that Bentley logic to close. But then that is just me.
What speed do you drive at to get 49-50 mpg. Your fuelly says 46.1 mpg is that wrong?
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#163
by
dankcorey22
on 17 Sep, 2011 15:21
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Got everything back together but not trying to get it started... no luck I have fuel up to the pump by a Mr. Gasket lift pump. I have 10.5 volts at the fuel cut off and can hear it click. I just don't have fuel at the lines yet. Idk what else to try.. ive been trying for 2 hours.
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#164
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 17 Sep, 2011 15:33
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Have you cracked the injector nuts and getting fuel out of there?