-
#135
by
dankcorey22
on 12 Sep, 2011 20:58
-
UPDATE ON PROJECT: Well i skipped out on school today
to hopefully get the car running and driving around... But when i hooked a little mr. gasket pump on to purge the lines and get fuel to the injectors, i noticed the damn pump start leaking around the pumps distributor head... I didnt take any of the pump apart when i was in the rebuild process. I was wondering if the mr. gasket pump caused the leak there? The leak is like 1 drop per second so its pretty fast... also i was wondering if i had to take the whole pump back off to replace that seal?
Thanks guys ill have a couple more pics up tomorrow. And a video when i get the thing running.
And the good news i got 20 PSI of oil pressure when im turning it over with the starter
-
#136
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 13 Sep, 2011 04:53
-
Does anyone know which wire is hot coming from the key cylinder? I need it to be hot when i turn the key to ON position. I need them for my gauges.
I thought i might check here before checking later tonight.
Thanks
The wire to the IP shut off solenoid is hot when you turn the key on, as well as one of the wires to the glow plug relay pin (30 ?).
I replaced the distributor head o-ring with the IP in the engine, which is not recommended. Better take it out and have it sitting up on ends. While you have it out, may as well replace the other o-rings and seals.
-
#137
by
dankcorey22
on 13 Sep, 2011 06:54
-
Does anyone know which wire is hot coming from the key cylinder? I need it to be hot when i turn the key to ON position. I need them for my gauges.
I thought i might check here before checking later tonight.
Thanks
The wire to the IP shut off solenoid is hot when you turn the key on, as well as one of the wires to the glow plug relay pin (30 ?).
I replaced the distributor head o-ring with the IP in the engine, which is not recommended. Better take it out and have it sitting up on ends. While you have it out, may as well replace the other o-rings and seals.
Thats what i did i ran a wire off the shut off solenoid to a relay to power my gauges up.
I think i will try to replace it in the car and if stuff starts to fall out ill just take the pump out, not really a big deal. on my tdi i had my pump explode and i had to take the head off to determine what came apart, didnt look all that bad in the pump by means of replacing that seal.
-
#138
by
nathan_b
on 13 Sep, 2011 08:15
-
ive done lots of head seals in the car. In fact, I've never done it out of the car..
-
#139
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 14 Sep, 2011 12:23
-
ive done lots of head seals in the car. In fact, I've never done it out of the car..
the first i attempted, was in car..
needless to say, i snapped the pump plunger (dont ask) and the advance cage fell apart on me..
took the pump off the car to completely rebuild it at that point..
-
#140
by
dankcorey22
on 14 Sep, 2011 12:32
-
So im guessing this is a common issue? Im going to try it in the car first and see how that goes... wish me luck ive got the seals on order should be at my house tomorrow.
-
#141
by
vanbcguy
on 14 Sep, 2011 13:27
-
There's a howto on here somewhere, but the basic problem is that there is a spacer disc inside the pump that relies on the pressure from the pump plunger to keep it in place. When you separate the pump head from the pump body, that disc falls out of place. When you then tighten the pump head back up, it snaps the 'foot' off the pump head and you're now looking at a substantial rebuild.
There IS a way to do it on the engine, and it can be done without wrecking anything but you need to be careful and make sure you follow the instructions. I think you need a long bolt to install in to the timing plug hole to keep pressure on the plunger, but I can't be certain (as I've never done it).
-
#142
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 14 Sep, 2011 15:10
-
Here's the thread
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=19969.0when I wrote about how I did mine.
Libbybapa said I was lucky I didn't botch the pump but I feel that I had pressure on the disc at all times by having the head out just enough to expose the o-ring and not any further (I am not 100% sure about that so take it for what it's worth). He posted a pic of a bolt with a spring to maintain tension on the disc but I'm not sure if that pic is still available since he deleted all his postings. May not be a bad idea and do some research and make that spring loaded bolt to be sure nothing goes wrong.
-
#143
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 14 Sep, 2011 15:29
-
Here's the thread
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=19969.0
when I wrote about how I did mine.
Libbybapa said I was lucky I didn't botch the pump but I feel that I had pressure on the disc at all times by having the head out just enough to expose the o-ring and not any further (I am not 100% sure about that so take it for what it's worth). He posted a pic of a bolt with a spring to maintain tension on the disc but I'm not sure if that pic is still available since he deleted all his postings. May not be a bad idea and do some research and make that spring loaded bolt to be sure nothing goes wrong.
you got lucky..
there is NOTHING that holds tension on the plunger once you start loosening it.. that disk can fall out whenever it feels like.. must have been some diesel left in the pump holding the disk there..
only way to keep the disk in there for sure, is with the bolt/spring
-
#144
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 14 Sep, 2011 17:01
-
This is the disc (shim) that we're talking about.
Isn't the disc loaded (and kept in place) by this spring even if the distributor head is moved outward a little to expose the o-ring?
you got lucky..
there is NOTHING that holds tension on the plunger once you start loosening it.. that disk can fall out whenever it feels like.. must have been some diesel left in the pump holding the disk there..
only way to keep the disk in there for sure, is with the bolt/spring
-
#145
by
dankcorey22
on 14 Sep, 2011 20:12
-
Thanks for the pictures... So yall dont think if i get a longer bolt to fit in the middle timing hole it wont work or will it?
Im just going to add if i hear something in the pump fall, Im just going to take it out...
-
#146
by
Powered by Spearco
on 15 Sep, 2011 07:53
-
As for your question on removing or replacing the CV's. The Pass. side, turn the wheel all the way to the right. Undo the trany side CV bolts and the outer hub nut, plunge the inner CV till it can pss around the CV flange and lift it up over the flange and pull it out of hub. Same thing on drivers side, except turn the wheel to the left, undo the shift linkage rods as to make clearance to lift it over the CV flange.
-
#147
by
damac
on 15 Sep, 2011 13:47
-
Thanks for the pictures... So yall dont think if i get a longer bolt to fit in the middle timing hole it wont work or will it?
Im just going to add if i hear something in the pump fall, Im just going to take it out...
I did it once but found it annoying. Cleaning everything off, taping the head and lubing it so the stretched oring could be seated. Then use a mirror tool to make sure the oring seats straight without turning or it will pinch.
If it were me I honestly would take the pump out, get a reseal kit for $20 on ebay and do an external type reseal job if you don't want to break down the pump all the way. Its pretty easy.
But what I did was take out 2 of the distribution bolt heads and then you have to get a longer bolt from the timing hole so it will touch. Then what you are doing is playing a slow and calculated game of turning each screw a couple turns at a time equally so everything moves in sync and you keep the pressure on the internals. You will feel when it touches, no need to go crazy tight. On install you will do the reverse.
-
#148
by
dankcorey22
on 15 Sep, 2011 20:02
-
People has me debating on taking the dang pump out! but i really want to get this thing going!
If i take the pump out i can fix the cold start lever, the lever gets stuck on a bolt that holds the IP mounting bracket to the block. I replaced the regular bold with an allen bolt and it sticks out just a bit to far and the lever gets hung.
Does anybody use that advance lever much anyways?! Before i rebuilt the engine i couldnt tell a difference with it pulled out or pushed in...
-
#149
by
Powered by Spearco
on 15 Sep, 2011 20:21
-
^^^ Yes. I use the CS all the time.
Just take the pump out, put it in a vice with the distributor facing up and unbolt it. I use Vaseline to hold all the springs and parts together when reassembling.
That way you can time it the way you want it and set the belt tension correct.