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#240
by
8v-of-fury
on 05 Mar, 2012 12:50
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Actually the stock stuff had 2" silicone adapters to the intake and turbo exit, so I will not need a silicone coupler there.
Silicone intakes, I looked at there stuff.. Very nice stuff. Little out of my price range though..
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#241
by
rallydiesel
on 05 Mar, 2012 13:13
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Did you modify the internal throttle lever? Just wondering as you mentioned you didn't have a welder. Good job on the swap!
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#242
by
8v-of-fury
on 05 Mar, 2012 15:54
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Did you modify the internal throttle lever? Just wondering as you mentioned you didn't have a welder. Good job on the swap!
I actually have a great pump man working on it for me, as I don't have welder. 410, a member on here in Alberta. He also sent me one of his boost pins to try out. Hand ground goodness
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#243
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Mar, 2012 15:33
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Does anyone know if the 4 prong coolant sensor in the front coolant neck (upper rad hose) of the 98 TDI will work the same as the older style 2 prong? ie. One lead to coolant gauge, and the other is grounded?
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#244
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Mar, 2012 18:35
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ALSO,
There are a couple limiting factors to some of the 1.6TD bits. The accelerator lever part that attaches to the governor spring capsule has a short offset and limits the total pull of the accelerator lever. Also, the fulcrum of the control collar lever assembly is closer to the collar, again limiting the max fuel. Anyway, those parts being what they are there are still things you can do. First step would be to jumper the accelerator lever to shaft orientation one spline so that the shaft goes clockwise and the lever goes anti-clockwise. Then readjust the max fuel and idle screws. That should give you a better idle setting and allow you to seriously increase the max fuel. Jumping another spline relaxes the idle spring and allows it to be adjusted again. There is way more fueling adjustment in the max fuel screw than in the idle screw. When you run out of idle, jump a spline for more adjustment, then adjust the max fuel for more fuel. Give it a try. It works. If it doesn't do what you want you can always put it back.
I tried doing this today after I put 410's fuel screw in. And it would seem that doing it the way Andrew stated seems to reduce power, yet I turned the max fuel screw in more.. ? It makes no sense. So I went another spline, and pushing the accelerator would bring the idle down... What the hell is going on in there? So I attempted going back the other way a spline from where I had it originally.. it shot the idle WAY UP, and I had already bottomed the idle screw out. So the only thing to do from there would be to back the max fuel screw out.
Hmm, I need some brainstorming on this one guys. lol Can't quite wrap the ol' noodle around it.
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#245
by
410
on 07 Mar, 2012 20:03
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I suggest pulling the top of the pump off and removing the idle spring that goes to the lever on the side of the pump. This will reduce tension on the throttle lever and allow you to turn the fuel screw up more while retaining your idle. You can also shim the governor a little but that requires removing the pump from the engine.
The coolant sensor from the mk2 and three will pop right in to the coolant flange on the ahu.
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#246
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Mar, 2012 20:15
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Ahh yes, shimming the governor. I have heard this referenced in my travels. Care to explain a little further if you posses the knowledge? Thanks man.
It looked as though the coolant sensors would swap over.. I may try that. I only did not want too, lose coolant as it is in a tricky spot. Bottom side of that neck. Genius place.. lol Why not on top?!
Don't suppose you have any knowledge on the rest of the AHU electricals?? I left that big plug on the engine for now, and it is still hooked up to the sensors, glow plugs, and what not. Does anyone know which of those pins are the two glow plug pins?
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#247
by
410
on 07 Mar, 2012 20:35
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Ahh yes, shimming the governor. I have heard this referenced in my travels. Care to explain a little further if you posses the knowledge? Thanks man.
It looked as though the coolant sensors would swap over.. I may try that. I only did not want too, lose coolant as it is in a tricky spot. Bottom side of that neck. Genius place.. lol Why not on top?!
Don't suppose you have any knowledge on the rest of the AHU electricals?? I left that big plug on the engine for now, and it is still hooked up to the sensors, glow plugs, and what not. Does anyone know which of those pins are the two glow plug pins?
I wouldn't worry about shimming the governor until you get your modified throttle lever.
If you change the coolant sensor when the engine is cold you lose very little coolant. I would also eliminate the engine plug all together. Once you remove it you'll see where everything goes.
Do you remember if you still have that idle spring in your pump? You can also back off the one set screw on that side lever which will back off your idle a little but it's worth it to pop the top off and remove it.
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#248
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Mar, 2012 20:42
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Yes the small spring between the upper cold start lever and the throttle lever inside the pump is still in there. Side lever is right backed out, no more adjustment there. I will be removing the pump lid tomorrow. I will also give the engine harness a look see. I don't know why I didn't remove it when i had the engine out and on the ground.. IDIOT.
Will hold off on the governor, until the throttle then. But be prepared. I will pick your brain when that time comes lol.
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#249
by
theman53
on 07 Mar, 2012 20:52
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Couldn't you keep the plug just in case? You could stick a wire on the Glow plugs and then to the big plug and test for continuity? I am just thinking if someday you wanted to go to E TDI then it would be plug and play right?
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#250
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Mar, 2012 20:57
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Lucas, that was my plan. just a dirty female connector on the plug spade. lol I haven't needed the gp's yet.. -25c the other day.. fired up without to much trouble..
I think I am pretty much as far away from a plug and play swap as I was when I had the 1.6 in the car. LOL! I have gotten rid of all the electronics, and everything associated with them. I mean I guess I could keep the engine harness around..?
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#251
by
theman53
on 07 Mar, 2012 21:02
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Just thinking, if it is as easy to put it in as it is to pull it out then ... Well do what you need to do, just me thinking. I would leave it be if possible and do a quick test. If not yank it.
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#252
by
libbydiesel
on 07 Mar, 2012 21:06
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ALSO, I tried doing this today after I put 410's fuel screw in. And it would seem that doing it the way Andrew stated seems to reduce power, yet I turned the max fuel screw in more.. ? It makes no sense.
Each time you jumper a spline to get more idle adjustment you need to screw the max fuel in a lot to compensate. If you don't screw the max fuel in a bunch, then it will indeed reduce power.
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#253
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Mar, 2012 21:32
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ALSO, I tried doing this today after I put 410's fuel screw in. And it would seem that doing it the way Andrew stated seems to reduce power, yet I turned the max fuel screw in more.. ? It makes no sense.
Each time you jumper a spline to get more idle adjustment you need to screw the max fuel in a lot to compensate. If you don't screw the max fuel in a bunch, then it will indeed reduce power.
Increasing the max fuel screw more brought the idle up, and doing another spline made it so pushing the accelerator would bring the idle down.
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#254
by
theman53
on 07 Mar, 2012 21:42
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maybe you lever isn't working right? Maybe to get it where it needs to be it is putting it back to the spot where it is going backwards? Just guesses