1984 Jetta , TDI WE MUST! (1.9 AHU M-TDI)

[RabbitJockey]

intradesting!!!!  mine is a later build date i believe it is around august 1981,  i'm not sure if it is 12mm or 11mm tho, but it definitely has the older 1.5 style crank nose, ill check soon when i get a chance.

[libbydiesel]

I thought the older crank sprocket/nose and the 11mm head bolts always went together.  I've never seen the older crank with the 12mm or newer crank with 11mm.

[RabbitJockey]

I thought the older crank sprocket/nose and the 11mm head bolts always went together.  I've never seen the older crank with the 12mm or newer crank with 11mm.

i thought the same thing and had been saying that on here and someone told me it wasn't true that some were a mix.  but who knows they may have thought that because they had a newer block with the older crank swapped in.  i never actually looked at my head bolts before even tho i have had the vc off many times

[8v-of-fury]

Updates,

I am sticking with the overflow bottle style rad, as I can get new in Canada for $55 and coupled with the other crap I need.. free shipping too. Score. I have found that 1.6 NA coolant lines work perfectly to delete the stock oil cooler from the coolant system. I will be using the stock 1.6 NA hardline, hardline to overflow, and the water pump to the front coolant neck as well. Its all on order !

I re&re'd my injectors today, got the bodies prepped for paint.. and the new nozzles installed. Gotta clean the bores in the head and they will likely be installed Monday. Also got the pump fully back together and ready to go back in, complete with a higher lift AAZ cam plate and hefty governor shimming. Now that I got the injectors to move the fuel.. I need more of it .

Likely be another week minimum before she see's the road again. Almost at a stand still until the parts show up. I need the parts so I can get it running to drill the exhaust manifold for the EGT probe.. and right now its drained of oil and has no filter flange on it haha. Does anybody have an old non-oil cooler filter flange kicking around? I could really use the threaded union in there if I cannot find one at Home Hardware tomorrow.. That will button up my external oil cooler as well. Now to save the funds for the AWIC My most favorite part! I'll be doing a trunk battery relocation with the help of long thick gauge jumper wires, I think they will work perfectly.

I currently use a 20ft 4g jumper cable set with lugs on the ends for my amplifier and people look at me like !@#@#%#!@$%!%!~!$@ You are using Jumper cables!? THAT IS SO GHETTO, HAHA WTF durr de durrrr durr. I'm like yeah, what did you pay for amplifier "wiring" kit?? $200+? Riiighttt, my $75 seems a WAY better choice, DICKS lol. Plus I actually have both cables run to the battery and not just ground in the trunk relying on the stock battery to body ground to carry my current.. Another spot where all the haters fail, 2g power wire, and the 10g ground to the trunk floor.. Then you got the 12g stock wiring harness for the body ground.. RETARDS.

[410]

Why didn't you use the camplate from the ahu pump you had?  It has a much better profile for direct injection compared to the aaz one.  A lot of the older Fords have the oil filter threaded peice you're looking for, like maybe an old cougar.

[ORCoaster]

Isn't the threaded pipe you are looking for just a 3/4 inch by 16 thread per inch nipple?  Seems to me that is what I ended up with on my flange, oil heater, filter setup. 

[8v-of-fury]

The AAZ compared to the Rover one is significantly better by itself.. And the AHU one is still inside a pump on the shelf haha. I am not so sure the AHU and AAZ differed much if any from what I recall.. but you are probably right. Next time its apart, Ill throw that one in and see.

Yes it is 3/4-16 UNF, my hardware store didn't have one.. so I was thinking of just threading this one I have just a little further. Its close to fitting as is.. so I will likely go that route.









These sunsabisshes will be getting anti-seized gobbed all over them before they go back in their holes.. That is for sure! It was a week long battle everyday after work to get #3 out. Stripped, cleaned, primed and painted. Complete with .216's Veg Injection nozzles.

[libbydiesel]

I have a slide hammer pilot bearing puller.  I removed the puller parts (rarely used) and bought a coupling nut that fit the threads and then welded onto it a nut that is the threads of the injector union.  That tool works INCREDIBLY well on pulling stuck TDI injectors.

[8v-of-fury]

Yeah that is a good idea, I don't expect these to be out again anytime soon.. so maybe next time I'll build a puller haha.

More or less at a stop now until parts arrive. Small things.. routing fuel lines and cleaning up the electrical is what I'll chip away at after work this week.. or maybe get it all done tomorrow? Who knows lol.

[410]

Hey Jeremy, do you have a picture of the landy camplate profile? 

[8v-of-fury]

I can get you one no problem JF, the piece is on my bench. One minute.

Also I measured the lift, around 2.5mm, compared to 2.25mm of the 1.6's and 3mm of the AAZ.

[8v-of-fury]

Looks like a 1.6 idi camplate to me lol.

[410]

Wow, that is a lame camplate!  I highly recommend using the ahu camplate over the aaz camplate.  The total lift is almost the same between the two but the up ramp is way steeper on the ahu camplate.  The steeper up ramp suits the tdi injectors better and allows the same amount of fuel to be injected quicker compared to the aaz.

[8v-of-fury]

So you're telling me.. I should rip the two pumps apart and get the ahu cam plate in to it? Gah haha. I guess I should have  asked before just going ahead and doing eh lol.

True-say, I don't think I took any pictures when I had the AHU cam-plate out last..

[8v-of-fury]

The only picture I have of the AHU one, from when it was hitting my governor assembly.... hah.

Looks pretty similar, I'll pull them apart tomorrow I guess and check it out .