Audi Quattro Turbo Diesel Build - Now with video! - page 4 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
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#45 by scottmandu on 28 May, 2010 08:29
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This will be compatible with a 01E 6-speed if I ever decide to go that route. I'm hoping someone will come out with a kit to make installing a 01E into a type-44 a bolt-in affair. My other option is the tranny from a B3 80/90. This transmission will give me 23.2 MPH/1000. Still not great, but better.
We've done a number of type 44 01E conversions, it's very expensive and mostly bolt on with a few custom made parts.
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#46 by rabbid79 on 29 Jun, 2010 20:09
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We've done a number of type 44 01E conversions, it's very expensive and mostly bolt on with a few custom made parts.
Good to know it can/has been done. Too bad it's so expensive.
Time for an update. I've been busy waiting for parts. The last of them should arrive on Thursday, and then I'll be ready to install the engine this weekend. One day I would like to drive this thing to Alaska, so I'm going a little overboard on maintenance items. I'm putting all new hoses in, including heater core hoses. I'm going to install them this week, while the engine is out, while they're still easy to get to. Once the engine is in, the next thing I'll do is set the crank to TDC using the flywheel marks, and then install the cam to make sure my binding issue is gone. So far I've wasted 4 cam seals, so they're not going in until I know the cam is there to stay.
7A oil pan with baffles and windage tray cleaned up and ready to go. Notice the funky expansion tank that the oil filter fits through. One cool aspect is that it can easily be removed to have a look at what's going on inside the bottom end.
Engine compartment cleaned and ready to go. No more CIS fuel injection nonsense.
Cut and flared the fuel lines for conversion to diesel. I kept the small one around incase I need it some day. The flaps that cover the tie rods were torn up, so I'll need to make some new ones before I drive it too far.
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#47 by Smokey Eddy on 30 Jun, 2010 10:08
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You know, you can re-use those cam seals so long as they aren't damaged. At least on all the 1.6IDI and 1.9IDI you can. They don't get pressed or damaged or anything on install. The IM shaft, crank shaft and cam shaft all use the same one.
I've been using the same cam shaft seal and i've removed it at least 5 or 6 times. Still no leaks...
I feel crappy for only sharing this with you now. But perhaps your engine differs quite drastically. I mean, apart from the extra piston and all that jazz. -
#48 by Rabbit on Roids on 01 Jul, 2010 10:13
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whats another good use for a 5 cyl audi? its not going back in a 5000, if anything it would be a 90Q or a 4KQW if they even made them. what other sweet rides can you shoehorn one into? i remember hearing about the porsche 924?
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#49 by rabbid79 on 12 Jul, 2010 21:01
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You know, you can re-use those cam seals so long as they aren't damaged.
I didn't know that. They probably are the same as the 1.6/1.9. The ones I took out each had a little scratch, so I didn't want to take any chances. Thanks for the advice though.Quotewhats another good use for a 5 cyl audi? its not going back in a 5000, if anything it would be a 90Q or a 4KQW if they even made them. what other sweet rides can you shoehorn one into? i remember hearing about the porsche 924?
Yes, 924! That's what I want to do a couple of years down the road. I wonder if I'll still want to do it then?
Ok, I made my goal of getting the engine in on the 4th of July weekend. Sorry I haven't posted any pictures for so long. I've been making good progress though, and will hopefully be able to start it for the first time on the weekend of the 24th. It depends on whether the latest batch of parts arrives in time. Either way, I can probably go ahead and put the front sheet metal/bumper back on, so it will start looking like a proper car again. I will hopefully have a video for you in the next couple of weeks.
Diamond coated friction washer that goes between V-belt dampener pully and nose of the crank. By weight, the most expensive thing I've ever purchased aside from my wife's wedding ring. It works out to $26,400 per pound. :-)
Spec stage 2 clutch and resurfaced flywheel. Supposedly good for 400 ft/lb.
Cleaned up bell housing with new release bearing and other misc. parts:
Engine ready to go:
Engine installed, test fitting down pipe. Joining the old and new sections of exhaust should be as simple as a 2" to 2.25" adapter.
The taller engine changed the geometry of the original P/S bracket, so a custom one was made:
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#50 by 4wheeler on 13 Jul, 2010 04:59
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You wouldn`t happen to have the spec sheet on the engine you re using do you?
Dimensions, availability, etc..?
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#51 by blackdogvan on 13 Jul, 2010 05:27
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Are there pics I can't see in the last rabbid79 post?
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#52 by smokin_fun on 13 Jul, 2010 06:41
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Yes, and when you see them make sure some kleenex is handy.
Thats awesome!!! Ya Audi -
#53 by Rabbit on Roids on 13 Jul, 2010 14:37
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some guy offered me $350 bucks for my WHOLE audi 5000 TD. i think i was justified in telling him to kick rocks, right?
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#54 by rabbid79 on 13 Jul, 2010 18:15
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You wouldn`t happen to have the spec sheet on the engine you re using do you?
Pretty much a straight AAB with lots of bolt-ons. It's similar to a 1.9 AAZ, but with 1 extra cylinder. 79.5mm bore, 95.5 stroke, 22:1 compression ratio, etc. For North America, pretty much only available in Canada in the Eurovan. Lots sold in Germany and the UK in the T4 Transporter.
Dimensions, availability, etc..?QuoteAre there pics I can't see in the last rabbid79 post?
Yes, lots of pics. Are you not able to see them?Quotesome guy offered me $350 bucks for my WHOLE audi 5000 TD. i think i was justified in telling him to kick rocks, right?
That depends on the condition of the car. I paid $100 for the last 5000 TD I bought, but it was a basket case.
I forgot to mention what I learned about the "binding" issue. The first thing I did after installing the engine was set the timing with the timing marks on the flywheel and shims under the cam locking plate. I set the timing dead-on. I turned it over by hand, and wouldn't you know it, the "problem" was still there. That's when I realized that the binding sensation was actually occurring when the valves were actually starting to open. Each lifter has a little bit of give between when it first starts to compress, and when it actually presses down on the valves. I wasn't taking this into account in my earlier tests. I was just watching as the lobe first started to push down on the lifter, and didn't take into account when the valve actually started to move. So the problem really isn't a problem. This also explains why it doesn't happen in the same place when going the opposite direction. -
#55 by Toby on 13 Jul, 2010 19:09
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some guy offered me $350 bucks for my WHOLE audi 5000 TD. i think i was justified in telling him to kick rocks, right?
QuoteThat depends on the condition of the car. I paid $100 for the last 5000 TD I bought, but it was a basket case.
I am the guy that offered RWR $350 for his 5000 TD. He told me it was a "worn out and burned a quart every 100 miles" and that he needed ether to get it to run. He also implied that the rest of the car was pretty crappy. But he was sure that the head was good, but he wouldn't guaranty that the head was even a usable core. I suspect the motor has major internal problems from the ether. A quart/ 100 miles is a major malfunction I think $350 was generous for a sh&#ter car with maybe a core motor in it. A running (w/ether anyway) basket case.
BTW, I only paid $250 for a nice '82 5000 TD with 117K on the clock. Nice car, good leather, new tires on perfect factory wheels, straight body/shiny paint. It has been on the Seattle CL for about 6 months. Started at a grand, I think, and took the only offer of $250. The DA PO blew a HG and let is sit for some number of weeks with water in all of the cylinders before he took it apart. It has a fresh motor in it but the cylinders have some minor pits. The head needs a line bore and a new/repaired cam. $200 worth of work but its 2 weeks out. I can do all of the head stuff myself, but I just don't have time. A core head I could do in an afternoon and be driving my new 5000 TD.
Still looking for parts. Mainly a block that will clean at .50 mm and a core head. -
#56 by rabbid79 on 13 Jul, 2010 21:48
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Still looking for parts. Mainly a block that will clean at .50 mm and a core head.
I may have a head for you. If interested, PM me for details. -
#57 by blackdogvan on 13 Jul, 2010 23:26
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Hmmm, rabbid79 what site are you using to host your images? I can take it off the blocked IP list for the ship i'm on's sat system. I'll make up a better story for the IT techs than so I can surf diesel porn from 450 miles east of St Johns Nfld...
Any chance stage 2 of this project will be Tdi pistons & a bolt on 5 cyl head? Giles has built a 5 cyl mtdi pump already. -
#58 by rabbid79 on 14 Jul, 2010 07:11
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Hmmm, rabbid79 what site are you using to host your images? I can take it off the blocked IP list for the ship i'm on's sat system. I'll make up a better story for the IT techs than so I can surf diesel porn from 450 miles east of St Johns Nfld...
Hey blackdogvan, I'm using Photobucket to host the pics. At the rate I'm going, stage 2 will adding a K&N filter, and stage 3 adding an intercooler.
Any chance stage 2 of this project will be Tdi pistons & a bolt on 5 cyl head? Giles has built a 5 cyl mtdi pump already.
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#59 by blackdogvan on 17 Jul, 2010 08:30
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Finally got to see the pics, very sweet. Really digging this thread!