Audi Quattro Turbo Diesel Build - Now with video!

[Turbinepowered]

My question (Being a CN engine owner) is where are you getting the headgasket? I need one... 

[rabbid79]

You can take the throttle body off of a gas car and modify it to fit the diesel intake manifold, gut it, and plug the holes.  Then the MM hose can connect the IM to the intercooler.

I had planned on doing that, even had the TB, but didn't like the way it fit the manifold.  Mine was the teardrop shape.  Do you know if the round ones are a better fit without that extra hole?

My question (Being a CN engine owner) is where are you getting the headgasket? I need one...

Do you mean an MLS gasket, or just a regular fiber gasket?  I have a 2 and 3 hole fiber if you need one.  If you're taking about the MLS gasket, your best bet is to use one from the AAB engine.  I can post up pictures of the regular DE fiber, the AAB fiber, and an AAB MLS gasket for comparison if you want.

[TPW]

I had planned on doing that, even had the TB, but didn't like the way it fit the manifold.  Mine was the teardrop shape.  Do you know if the round ones are a better fit without that extra hole?

I used the teardrop shaped TB, no experience with a round one.

[MJF]

 Does the part of the 3D flange that connects to the manifold look like this?  If so, are you interested in selling it?  It might be cheaper and better than trying to have the flange in the picture machined.  What size intercooler hose does it fit?  Does it work with the stock "Michelin Man" hose?

Nope, itīs just hose flange. Just like in Passat, but for bigger hose. Iīve never measured it, but itīs 2,5" or even bigger. Same kind as 2,0 TDIC, cannot remember engine code now... I have 2,0 TDIC and 3D flanges somewhere, Iīll have to find and measure those. Both are for sale if I can find those.

[TPW]

What did you do about the fuel accumulator?  Did you bypass it?

Upon further investigation, It looks as if this car doesn't have a fuel accumulator.  Someone removed it and replaced it with a short length of hose before I bought it.  The gas engine never ran since I have owned this vehicle, so I don't know what difference the lack of it made (long cranking on cold starts?)

[rabbid79]

Nope, itīs just hose flange. Just like in Passat, but for bigger hose. Iīve never measured it, but itīs 2,5" or even bigger. Same kind as 2,0 TDIC, cannot remember engine code now... I have 2,0 TDIC and 3D flanges somewhere, Iīll have to find and measure those. Both are for sale if I can find those.

I'd be interested in buying one of them if you can find them.  Please send IM and pics if you can find one.

Upon further investigation, It looks as if this car doesn't have a fuel accumulator.

Thanks for researching that for me.  It sounds like I should bypass mine as well, unless someone has experience drawing diesel fuel through one of these?

[rabbid79]

Ok, been making lots of progress.  I've only got 3 months until the Subaru goes away, so it time to really get moving.

Widdled out a vacuum pump block-off plate.  The T44 Audis use hydraulic brake assist, so a high volume vacuum pump hanging off the head isn't really necessary.  The T44s do use vacuum to run the HVAC control solenoids, but I plan on using the built-in cruise control vacuum pump for that.  It was necessary to counter-sink the holes and use low-head allen bolts.  Otherwise, the glowplug strap would hit the lower bolt.



Using head alignment pins in outer holes as referred to by the Bentley.  I didn't know this, but on the 5-cylinder engines, these two head bolt holes in the head are smaller than any of the others.  Once you set the head down, it barely moves in any direction, and ensures that the head and block are perfectly aligned.  Once the 10 other head bolts have been installed and snugged a bit, you then use a reverse threaded extractor to remove them.  I'm not sure if the 4-cylinder engines use the same idea or not.



Finally got head and MLS gasket installed.  Using some of those new ARP2000 head studs.  I ordered them through MJM Autohaus.  I am pleased with MJM as they took the time to call ARP to get two extras for my 5-cylinder.  Only charged me an additional $29 too.  Torqueing these babies to 120 ft/lb is a little unnerving.  I'll go to 125 after the engine has been heat cycled a few times.



Also installed a new cam since the original one had some pitting on a couple of the lobes.  Perhaps the old one would be a good core for Dr. Diesel's new cam grinding service?



Can anyone help me find this part?  It's an oil check valve that goes into the side of the block to help keep oil in the head.  You can see one in the picture of the engine on the first page, but it is only the adapter, not the spring/piston.  This picture is from a friend's AAB.  My local dealer can't find anything like it, and I even called a Canadian VW dealership, and their pictures show the little integrated valve like the 5-cylinder gas engines use.  The one in this picture already has an oil pressure switch installed into it.  I'm just looking for the adapter/spring/piston portion.  If anybody happens to know the part number, I'd be greatful.

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

On my 'KATE'  The valve is listed  on the block diagram as 077 103 175 B, or as 047 103 175 A  with an 'X' in remarks. Diagram # 103-30

The sensor is ?? 0.25bar blue , or is it 0.9 bar grey AAB specific? Diagram confusing is there 2 sensor sockets?

[lord_verminaard]

Wow, just found this thread, GREAT project!

I just acquired my own Audi Coupe Quattro, and really thought how great it would be with some beefy diesel power.  I didn't know these 5-cylinder engines were ever in North America.  Sure, it's not a 2.5 TDI but it should do nicely.

I think 034 motorsport has mounts to use an 01E transmission now, it's the driveshaft that is the tricky bit, though when swapping an 01E into a Coupe, you can use the 4kQ shaft, so I've been told.  Don't know about the 100's though.  There is also a company making a 1-piece driveshaft in any length you need but I can't seem to find them right now.

Here's mine, just picked it up a couple weeks ago:


Right now, it's down for a tranny swap and clutch and timing belt.  Fun stuff!  I did pick up an 01E 6-speed from an S4 for practically nothing.  Needs rebuilt but couldn't pass up the price, that will be a "back burner" project.

I'll be watching this build, good luck!

Brendan

[rabbid79]

On my 'KATE'  The valve is listed  on the block diagram as 077 103 175 B, or as 047 103 175 A  with an 'X' in remarks.  Diagram # 103-30

The sensor is ?? 0.25bar blue , or is it 0.9 bar grey AAB specific? Diagram confusing is there 2 sensor sockets?

Thanks for the reply.  Unfortunately, that first part number is one I have already ordered.  It's actually a much smaller self-contained valve that screws into a passage inside the block, and isn't at all compatible with my block.  Maybe the second number is the one I need, and it's not coming up on genuineaudiparts.com, which may mean it's NLA.

That's a pretty couple Brendan.  Have you thought about installing 034's new 7A turbo kit on it?  That thing would fly!

I didn't know these 5-cylinder engines were ever in North America.

The 2.4D wasn't available in the US, only Canada.  I got this one through a place in Nevada that imports stuff like this.

If anybody has a spare AAB fuel injection pump mounting bracket kicking around, I might be interested in it.

[rabbid79]

Some progress... Got the old gasser and its never ending supply of hoses and wires out.  I can't wait to finish stripping the engine compartment of the rest of this junk.  It should be very satisfying.  I hate that you have to remove the front bumper and sheet metal support on these cars to get the engine out.  But now that it's off, it should make getting in there to clean things up a breeze.  You can see in the bottom left-hand corner the huge windshield washer reservoir that would be great for water/methanol injection.

[Smokey Eddy]

SOOOSOOSOSOSOSOSOSOSOSO
SICKKK!!!!
I WISH I HAD A 5CYL!!!!

[VW Smokr]

... I hate that you have to remove the front bumper and sheet metal support on these cars to get the engine out. But now that it's off, it should make getting in there to clean things up a breeze...

The removal of the bumper/front support/core support may seem like a PITA, but if you've ever done many powerplant R&Rs on the Audi Fox and VW B1/Bx series, you'd likely come to appreciate the extra room! IMO those early models can be a nightmare, even with stock inline 4cyl engines.

Great project and pictures. You obviously have thought this one out in great detail. Beautiful car; I feel that the mid '80s-to-early '90s Audi 5000/100/200 (and the pre-'95 German Ford Scorpios) represented some of the most tasteful sedan designs, ever... so far. Crap, maybe it's an age thing?    Anyway your 100Q looks great and will be an even better vehicle with your TD re-power!

BTW did your Vegas Euro-source mention anything about the availability of the Audi V6 TD/TDI engines(2.5L/2.7L/3.0L)?

J.R.
SoCal

[rabbid79]

Thanks for the compliments.  I love the T44s too.  It might be an age thing.  Ever since I saw my first '86 5000 QT when I was in high school, I've been in love with them.  For me, it's as much nostalgia as classic good looks.

BTW did your Vegas Euro-source mention anything about the availability of the Audi V6 TD/TDI engines(2.5L/2.7L/3.0L)?

The place I bought my engine from is under new ownership, and I don't think they have the same connections as the previous owners.  I would be a bit surprised if they imported anything "exotic" anymore.  I don't know if they ever had any of those engines.  I've never heard of a VW/Audi based V6 TD, just TDIs.

[rabbid79]

Hi everyone, I'm looking for some advice on a strange problem I'm having.  I put the timing belt on today.  Since I don't have the flywheel mounted, I set TDC using a dial indicator on the #1 piston.  I locked the cam into position, and proceeded to install the water pump, timing belt, and cam sprocket.  I tensioned the belt according to the Bentley, and proceeded to turn the engine over by hand to make sure there wasn't any binding.  Well, there was.  It turns smoothly except that 5 times per rotation of the crankshaft (6 if you include getting back to where you were), there is a noticeable increase in the amount of force necessary to turn it.  It only last for a few degrees, and then it's nice and smooth again.  If anyone has ever slowly turned over a model airplane engine and felt the power stroke, that is what it feels like.

A few things to know:
No glow plugs or injectors are installed.
All of the cylinders, bearings, cam lobes, and lifters are well lubricated.  The oil pump looks to have lubrication on the gears.
The position of the blades of the water pump doesn't seem to coincide with the binding.
The fuel injection pump is not connected.
The binding does not happen at TDC or BDC for any cylinder.
The binding seems to be very consistent for all 5 times in a complete rotation.  It doesn't seem to be more or less-so for any particular cylinder.
I don't hear any knocking or scraping or other noises when it happens.
I didn't ever turn the motor before I disassembled it, so I don't know if it was happening before.
The only parts I have replaced on the bottom end are the main bolts with studs.
I did replace the cam from a suffix 'A' to a 'B'.  According to the Eurovan Bentley, the 'B' is the one that should be in there anyway.
The lobes of the cam don't appear to be making contact with the lifter bores or anything like that.
The problem also happens when turning the crank CCW, but isn't as noticeable, and doesn't seem to happen at exactly the same position.  It's off by a few degrees.
The problem does seem to coincide somewhat with lobes of the cam that are down, but the piston is nowhere near TDC at the time.  Could the hydraulic lifters, which are new and have never had oil in them have something to do with it?

I think the next step is perhaps to get one of those small round mirrors to see what's happening along the back side of the crank.  I am also considering slightly advancing or retarding the cam timing, or removing it all together to make absolutely sure it's not some slight form of valve/piston contact.

Does anybody have any ideas?  Thanks for your input.