injectors

[wolf_walker]

That is a scary thing to hear from the guy testing your injectors.  The heat shield is a big ole crush washer basically, when you torque them in with a wrench to spec with new one's, you'll feel them crush.  Re-use is a bad idea, they are about a buck each, order a dozen and be done for a long time.

[phantom59]

I wonder if I can get them localy I was hoping to put them back in tomorrow after I put my Harbor Freight compression tester to work?

[Vincent Waldon]

the person at the rebuild shop who is Bosh certified said I could just clean them up and reuse them.

Oh dear.   Did he tell what pressures your injectors actually popped at?

[phantom59]

He said something about 1800

[Vincent Waldon]

He said something about 1800

Hopefully he said 1885 psi or 130 bar.

[phantom59]

I just remember he said they were fine at spec and something about 1800 and I ask about the spray pattern and he said it was good

[Vincent Waldon]

It's just very rare for someone with Bosch training not to know that the heat shields crush when you use them and can't be used again without the risk of compression leaks etc.... kinda called into question the whole shop.

Plus brand new Bosch-recommended heat shields are only a buck a piece...

[phantom59]

It is hard to believe these are going to crush they seem to be made of steel

[burn_your_money]

If you look at new ones you will see a knife edge where the injector seats against.

[phantom59]

I will call around to see if I can get them tomorrow.
Someone mentioned usung a magnetic dial indicator is this in place of the one that screws into the pump?
I guess if the compression is good I will be learning how to time the pump.
Should there be a noticable diffrence when the knob on the dash is pulled cold or hot?

[burn_your_money]

Should there be a noticable diffrence when the knob on the dash is pulled cold or hot?

If it's the original pump then no, no noticeable difference. It advances the timing about 0.30mm IIRC. There is usually a different tone in the engine and it should run smoother when cold. 

[Vincent Waldon]

It is hard to believe these are going to crush they seem to be made of steel

Yup... but you're seeing them in their "already crushed once" state.

We're all obsessing over this only because it's details like this that can make you chase your tail for days sorting out running issues.  ;-)

In terms of using a magnetic base I suppose it could be made to work but the trick will be to find a surface flat enough and big enough.. .the base needs a continuous flat section wide enough to bridge between the two internal poles of the magnet to provide enough clamping force... ie it won't stick to a bolt, nut, etc.  Lots of the metal in the same area is aluminum so won't work either.

An alternative might be to rent the correct tool from your local diesel shop... or simply have him do it.

IMHO this is one place you want to be really picky about...setting the timing is a 1/1000 of an inch task... get it wrong and you'll never know if you've found the root cause of your issues. It's also critical to set correctly in terms of power, fuel economy, and cold weather starting.

[phantom59]

After I check the timing I may have the mechanic check the punp timing seeing as he is more familliar with it and has the tools. Also I called to ask a question about diesel compression gauges and told him that the car was still running like sh^%$. He wanted the car back. I guess to finish what he didn't check. I told him I allready had it appart and I would get back to him.
I understand that not many people are familliar with these cars and what they run like. I know rough idle(diesel duh) lack of power (48 hp) but the truth factor is loosing 10 mpg (problem).
Sure your old Chevy doesn't run like a new camaro bot when it is getting 8mpg instead of 15mpg there is a problem.
Enough said I will get back after I run the compression check.

Thanks

[madrogers]

 If you remove the vacume pump a magnetic base dial ind. clamps down very sound. I inserted a brass welding rod into the removeable tip of the guage to reach the hole in the pump and it worked very well, there is a pic posted here somewhere of how it looks.
 I follow the KISS, way of thinking, KEEP IT SIMPLE , the cheapest and easyist thing to do is check the timeing,cam and pump, it is easy to get it wrong by some one who does not care what they are doing. ie. 36 to 45 mpg it runs that is good enought for them, becuase it runs
If the pump advance works up to 2000 rpm ( from what i read) so sould not effect fuel mileage, if it is stuckin advance then good starting and on problem after 2000 rpm , if stuck in nomal postion then not so good starting when cold  and is where it is to be when warmed up, still not a big deal , sould not effect fuel mileage 9 mpg.
  CHECK THE CAM AND PUMP TIMEING.
PS. do not over tighten the timeing belt or you wear the pump bushing out.FYI. 

[phantom59]

Anyone ever use the Harbor Freight compression tester?
The adaptor has a sleve and two copper seal washers. Do I use one washer above the sleve and one in the head or will the steel sleve seat in the injector port?