more supercharger talk

[truckinwagen]

oh yeah, it sounded like a rod ready to come out through the side of the block.

I replaced the rods and mains thinking they were the culprit(and they did need replaced, but not worn too bad) before loosening the injector line.


just ordered a set of reman injectors from autohausaz.com as well as an extra set of heat shields and a pair of balljoints( might as well while they are shipping a box anyway)

hopefully they come in on friday, and I can head out saturday to install them.

apart from the hellish banging noise from the injector, the motor runs well.
the G60 is putting out about 1PSI at idle(about 1000RPM, but without a tach its impossible to tell)
and put out about 10PSI when revved as far as I felt safe with the bad injector(about 3000RPM, but again hard to tell without a tach)

I do have a mechanical testing tachometer(that you hold onto the end of a spinning shaft) that I will use to set the idle and see how high it will rev with once the new injectors go in, and I will report back with boost numbers at rpm levels.

it is starting to look like a real screamer, the injection pump is a little different than an vw one, in that it takes much less pedal input to get response from the motor(this is revving in neutral though, so we will see what that actually means when driving later.)

-Owen

[RabbitJockey]

this is exciting.

[truckinwagen]

this is exciting.

your telling me, every time I go to work on this thing I think it will be done and get excited, only to be let down by the fact that it still wont run.

but all that is past, I am confident that this is the last issue, and I will be driving it soon!
lots of pics and vids to follow of course!

[tindias]

You guys should meet 1/2 way & race!!! Where's that, somewhere around the BC / Yukon border on highway 97?? No chatting, just drive till you meet, race, & drive home.

A race does sound like fun, but I need to be able to stop first lol.  The 16v Master/booster are in, but the bleeders on the rear drums look like they were broken off long ago.  I planned on swapping the rear disc from my Scirocco over, I guess I will be doing that sooner then expected.  I do have the E30 rear end for the Scirocco, so there really is no reason to wait.  I hope to have the diesel rear discs on before weeks end.

[truckinwagen]

I am toying with exhaust ideas as the downpipe that I bought for $100 turned out to be garbage(the flex sections are all cracked and the outlet has been ravaged by a hammer and sawzall)

I think I have found a full 4-2-1 header on the 'tex for $50, which was about what I had planned to spend repairing the downpipe, so...

but after that I am not sure what to do, the car has a 2.25" TT exhaust on it right now, with a dynomax second muffler.
with the gasser in it it was more raspy than I like, but I am not sure what the diesel will sound like(most of the exhaust gases are coming out the torn flexes in the downpipe)

I am thinking about running the 4-2-1 header to a 2.5" side exit, but am unsure what muffler to use.

thoughts?

would the side exit be worth the work(really not that much work as an over axle section would not be needed)
or should I stick with the dual muffler setup that is already under it?

-Owen

**EDIT**
I am thinking of this muffler with the side exit:


http://www.mooreparts.com/store/product/942/AC251062/

[truckinwagen]

either that or a stinger tucked under the car, showing about 3-4" at a 45* angle to the rear...

[truckinwagen]

well, no parts today 

hopefully they come in tomorrow, and mike will let me head over on sunday to do the install

[91redjetta]

A race does sound like fun, but I need to be able to stop first lol.  The 16v Master/booster are in, but the bleeders on the rear drums look like they were broken off long ago.  I planned on swapping the rear disc from my Scirocco over, I guess I will be doing that sooner then expected.  I do have the E30 rear end for the Scirocco, so there really is no reason to wait.  I hope to have the diesel rear discs on before weeks end.


not trying to steal posts but... have you tried the rear disc brake swap without the 16v stuff? i've got the rear disc on my truck and i think that because i don't have the 16v stuff the brakes aren't as stiff as i'd like them.

sweet truck buy the way.. and sweeet write on by both of you.. i'm glad someone is not afraid to steep out of the box of idea's most people have... ha.. i do but then someone gets to me and i step back in.. ha keep up the good work and get it running

[tindias]

not trying to steal posts but... have you tried the rear disc brake swap without the 16v stuff? i've got the rear disc on my truck and i think that because i don't have the 16v stuff the brakes aren't as stiff as i'd like them.

sweet truck buy the way.. and sweeet write on by both of you.. i'm glad someone is not afraid to steep out of the box of idea's most people have... ha.. i do but then someone gets to me and i step back in.. ha keep up the good work and get it running

I have installed the Master/Booster and pedal cluster from a 16v out of a wrecking yard.  I will be taking the complete rear disc assembly from my Scirocco to install it on my pickup.  It works out well since the BMW rear end has brakes and all, so my Scirocco will still be able to keep 4 wheel disc and I can upgrade my caddy at the same time.

[truckinwagen]

I am lucky enough to have one of the few early mk2 GTI's that came with factory rear disc, so no fiddling with getting a set to work right for me!

parts are in anchorage, just not at my house yet, so I should be installing them tomorrow!

-Owen

[truckinwagen]

well, I went out to the car today and installed the new injectors and fired it up!

still made a weird sound like a ball peen hammer on the valve cover.
I said hell with it, I'm gonna take it for a spin anyway!

the governor spring is still limiting the RPM way too much, making second too short to get going more than 10MPH, and third too tall to drive in, so second it is at 10MPH down the street!

after about a thousand feet, however, the coolant blew out of the radiator cap, and the temp gauge reached to the right.
so I turned around, and drove back and shut it down in the driveway(at 250* or more)

there is obviously an issue causing combustion gasses to enter the water jacket, so off comes the head.
the whole time I am taking the head off, I am wondering what it could be, the gasket is new and the block looked good, so it has to be the head.

after inspecting the head, it is obvious that the idiot that put the head on should have had it resurfaced first, as there are some pretty prominent scratches that go from the combustion chamber into the gasket surface.

so I am going to contact a couple machine shops to see if they can resurface a diesel head without destroying it.

so now to the pics:

trying to get the god forsaken manifolds off!


the head surface






the hole where the head used to be


and remember that weird sound like a hammer on the valve cover?
guess what I found under the valve cover while taking off the head:



looks like it got dropped in sometime the valve cover was off, it looks like it was getting into the valve springs and was getting shot back out when the valve was depressed.

does not look like anything was damaged by it, there are a few dents in the cast inside of the head from it bouncing off, but no lifter damage, no cam damage, no damage to the valve springs etc...
so I am going to move on and not worry about it too much.

so I am going to order a new had gasket, and pay some more money to get the head decked so it will actually seal next time.

-Owen

[Rabbit on Roids]

make sure they knock the pre cups out and fly cut the holes the same amount they cut the head.

[Rabbit on Roids]

but if it gets milled too much too fast, it gets milled at an angle that way, and basically ruins your head. if your machinist knows what hes doing, he can cut it slow and mill the cups down too, but if hes an idiot, hes gonna mill it crooked.

i would rather knock the cups out, cause most of the machinists around here are idiots.

[truckinwagen]

if the machinist is incapable of milling the head flat with the precups in it, what makes you think he will be able to do a good job cutting and replacing the precups?

if I don't trust a machinist to do the very basic(slowing down the mill) I am for sure not going to trust him with the more difficult things.

there is a shop in the valley that does marine machining as well as high performance two stroke stuff, so I am sure I can work out a way that they can do this head right.

I should have done this before the first install, but I was being rushed to get it finished and out of a garage, so I slapped the head on and hoped for the best.

-Owen

[truckinwagen]

so the head is only half the issue right now, and it will be dealt with soon enough.

the other problem is that the spring I found for the governor is not stiff enough, and it is the stiffest I can find locally.

I don't feel like ordering a spring to find out that it too is not the one I want, so how about this:
I take some wire and tie off a set of coils on the stock governor spring(effectively stiffening it) and see how it drives, I can change the number of coils tied off until it runs like I want it and then measure the spring tension to be sure I get  spring the right stiffness.

any thoughts about doing this?
I really just need this thing to rev high enough to get it home, but right now it wont rev enough to make the jump from 2nd to 3rd.

also, would there be any benefit to putting some sort of sealing compound on the head gasket when I install the head?

-Owen