Author Topic: Weird bearing issue with new bearings. need suggestions (Read 15140 times)

Smokey Eddy · « **Reply #30 on:** November 23, 2008, 06:28:11 pm »

well i have no idea what they were supposed to be

i took them off! they were relatively easy to take off unlike torque to yield head bolts.

phew, don't need new ones.

That still doesn't solve my issue though. I guess next i'll try 1 cap at a time on 1 piston and work my way down from there and if that doesn't work use the old bearings as stupid as that sounds...

burnt_servo · « **Reply #31 on:** November 23, 2008, 06:34:10 pm »

you know the little notches on the bearings ......

are they all properly lined up into the notches in the rod and rod cap ?

if not that will cause your binding problem .

other wise your bearing shell might be the wrong size ( meaning too thick ) .

Smokey Eddy · « **Reply #32 on:** November 23, 2008, 06:39:50 pm »

Yes they are lined up properly. but i can't match the caps to the rods. There aren't any defining marks. I tried to line them up based on wear marks.
now im going to do 1 piston at a time 1 cap at a time until it works and if it never works then i'm going to measure (or try to) the thickness with some feeler gauges i have...

burn_your_money · « **Reply #33 on:** November 23, 2008, 07:01:24 pm »

con rod cap to con rod .....22 ft/lb + 1/4 turn

Where are the shiny spots exactly?

Those are the areas that are rubbing.
Any scoring on the rod journals?

Vincent Waldon · « **Reply #34 on:** November 23, 2008, 07:24:57 pm »

Quote from: "Smokey Eddy"

are there markings that are supposed to make this easier?

Yup.... the ones you make *before* you pull it apart !!

Ah well... you'll get 'er... one piston at a time will work too.

Smokey Eddy · « **Reply #35 on:** November 23, 2008, 07:30:37 pm »

I'll up load some pictures at as high quality as i can to show the wear.
my old bearings read on them...
8451
02-87
VW (audi symbol)
069 701A

my new bearings say
BB 494

and on the other side (the original bearing doesn't have anything on this side but this one does)
a box with a half circle cut out (so like a bearing symbol i guess?) 6 05
025

wow that is blurry i'll try and take clearer ones. (there we go

)

Smokey Eddy · « **Reply #36 on:** November 23, 2008, 08:28:39 pm »

well, i have concluded that i have no faith left in humanity. I was sent the wrong bearings.

No combination of caps worked on 1 piston in any orientation.

I can only see a slight hint of copper on 2 of my old bearings, should i re-use them? ... :?

bah well i did.
i made sure to put the ones with little to no wear with the ones with the most wear.
that may have been a really dumb idea but it made sense in my head.
it spins freely now with old bearings.
my bearing/ring job is now just a ring job... sounds dirty :wink: .
but i assure you it's not! lots of solvent!

Smokey Eddy · « **Reply #37 on:** November 23, 2008, 09:58:03 pm »

This is most strange.
I received the right part no. but it won't fit?
They are 0.25 bearings...
I don't know what my old ones are supposed to be...
Why won't they work?

the old bearings work fine back in place.

Smokey Eddy · « **Reply #38 on:** November 23, 2008, 11:07:52 pm »

odd, according to this the bearings i took out are supposed to have oil holes... and they don't ...

and are the same size as the new ones i got. (0.25mm)

The bearings i got are 0.25mm (says on the box) and the right part no. to work in my engine...

But they don't work? what is wrong here... My old bearings work fine but the new ones in the same orientation don't work...

this is really aggravating.

Smokey Eddy · « **Reply #39 on:** November 23, 2008, 11:28:47 pm »

from what i can tell none of the new bearings in any combination work...

jtanguay · « **Reply #40 on:** November 24, 2008, 04:35:30 am »

i seriously think you have stretch bolts for the con rods... they're not cheap either. dealer wants about $4-8 each!!! for the amount of times you've removed the caps, i'd say that ARP hardware would be very economical in your situation :lol:

i guess let this be a lesson to you... always keep the parts sorted in order of which rod/piston/etc. and the orientation of that part as well!

bummer about getting the wrong parts though... compare the new and the old side by side with a magnifying lens or even a caliper if you have one.

people must know where one can get cheaper con rod bolts out there!!! there was a thread a while back where someone had the rod cap come loose and punch a hole through the block... i wouldn't want that to happen to you man!!

zukgod1 · « **Reply #41 on:** November 24, 2008, 11:47:30 am »

SO did you replace the broken oil ring?

You getting me EXTREMELY concerned here.

Do you have a Bentley? Are you reading it?

There are VERY specific steps required when taking apart and assembling a engine.

Did you not check the "New" bearings when you received them to make sure the matched the #'s on the old ones? As in "STD" or ".010" etc etc?

Your freaking me out Ed..

I don't feel to bad about you reusing your bearings as much as I would like to see you with new ones but that broken oil ring is makin me bug for some reason.

Not trying to be harsh Ed none of us want to see you go through all this work only to have problems in the near future as I'm sure you don't either. So my freaking out is a good thing

Smokey Eddy · « **Reply #42 on:** November 24, 2008, 03:27:10 pm »

Thanks guys i really do appreciate it.
about the oil ring, my shop teach. gave me a shatty ring comp. to use along with one he said not to use. I ended up using the one he said not to and it worked great. the oil ring lost like less than 1cm of length so i'm not too worried about it.

I was actually sent the wrong bearings. i just emailed the company a second time. I doubt i can get anything back or a replacement because i put them in and they have wear marks now so they aren't really new anymore.

About the con rods, i never actually torqued them to any where near spec just until i couldnt turn them with my fingers and i did like a 1/4 turn with a ratchet and the crank bound tight stuck. So, I'm not too too worried and i don't intend on pushing the RPM band. I also don't have the coin for ARP con rod bolts.
at this rate i won't be able to insure it for at least a month and i dunno if my brothers are going to get the best christmas presents if you know what i mean

no i haven't replaced the broken oil ring but i may pop by AVR and see if they can sell me just 1 singe oil ring for less than $1,000,000

no i don't have a bentley (why do you think i post like a f**k**g maniac on here?)

I just checked the box and i was sent the wrong bearings.

BELIEVE ME, i'm kicking my self way harder than you could possibly think i am.

I just spent TWO days ****ing around with those bearings only to look at the box and realize they ARE NOT standard bearings.

handedyourhat · « **Reply #43 on:** November 25, 2008, 01:58:24 am »

Ed, I dont know why you shop at AVR ? if I need anything I would go to the Lordco Machine shop in abby and talk to the guy runnin the show there, I cant remember his name but I trust him, he is a master engine rebuilder that has done it all...and has helped me out many times in the past you would be surprized in his prices compared to those AVR idiots !!!!

Dan

Smokey Eddy · « **Reply #44 on:** November 25, 2008, 02:27:32 am »

I got to AVR for things that other places, like lordco, would have to order. Like a 1 hole metal aaz head gasket. AVR is cheaper for things like that.
But for most other things they are on par with wakefield sperling and outrageoudly over prices for other things.

I'm not looking for an engine builder, im busy ruining mine my self. I shopped online and spent probably 45% of what i would have normally if i went through lordco or wakefield sperling.

I haven't actually bought anything from Lordco but just calling for price checks they seem to be the same as wakefield.

And sometimes, quite often, they [AVR] do have good advice/insight. I'm sure at least one of them are on this forum.
VW vortex for sure anyways.