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#255 by TurboJ on 17 Apr, 2009 14:38
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Thanks guys
As it happens, the car's back from the paint shop.
The finish turned out OK. Not great, not bad. I think it'll be quite nice with all the body trim fitted. Pictures will follow when I get a change to snap some proper ones.
There's still a lot to do, and the car may not be ready before June.
I'm trying to make it all happen, but I'm not going to cut corners just to save time - I'm a firm believer in 'do it right the first time'.
I just hope that's really what I've been doing so far...
Here's a couple of pictures from the latest progress:
The head looked like this straight from sand blasting.
..and after ceramic coating was applied:
The close-up shows how the stuff covers the whole combustion chamber.
The pre-cups weren't coated from the inside, but Aki did that too on his twin turbo engine. Interesting test results will surely follow!
Here's a stock intermediate shaft, and my new billet steel one that Aki custom made for me. Props for the good work again, Aki!
You know, the IM shafts tend to snap on many occasion. This steel shaft is supposed to be some 800% stronger that the stock shaft! One less thing to worry about I guess!
BTW, as we've always wondered where to get decent, good quality con-rods for the IDI engine - Pauter makes them! At least for the 1.6 engine. And the 1.9 TDI too! Do TDI rods fit on an AAZ?
Pauter's a name you can actually trust, so less than $800 for a set of chrome-moly H-profile rods sounds pretty good (at least for a European buyer). I think I'll get me a set for the Evo 2 build :twisted:
Here's a link:
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/vw-rods.html
Now back to the garage for more work...
Tomorrow I'm going to meet Aki again and we're gonna put the block and head together - pictures will be here in a matter of days. -
#256 by 53 willys on 17 Apr, 2009 15:33
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that IM shaft is AWESOME!
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#257 by subsonic on 17 Apr, 2009 17:46
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How could you break an IM shaft? All it does is turn the oil pump? :?
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#258 by truckinwagen on 17 Apr, 2009 19:50
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I think its really a balance thing, lots of the IM shafts still have the cam originally used for the carb gasser fuel pump.
if spun fast enough the cast shaft could break from vibration(also the reason the bearings go out so badly sometimes) -
#259 by 53 willys on 17 Apr, 2009 19:55
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Quote from: "truckinwagen"
I think its really a balance thing, lots of the IM shafts still have the cam originally used for the carb gasser fuel pump.
if spun fast enough the cast shaft could break from vibration(also the reason the bearings go out so badly sometimes)
x2 when you take the stock IM and turn it down it gets pretty thin...with his IM shaft it can stay balanced and still be small and strong..pretty nice IMHO. -
#260 by subsonic on 17 Apr, 2009 22:05
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Here is the before and after of my IM Shaft. It is still .700" dia.
You would need some HUGE, MASSIVE power to twist / snap a .70 thou. dia shaft that is not under direct load. When you say people have broken them, do you mean complete fracture of the shaft? :shock:
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#261 by Aki-76 on 17 Apr, 2009 23:12
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i know 3 differend engine which snap shaft.if you drop shaft floor itīs probably snap.castiron is so weak.
try this : put shaft screw clamp and twist it,same time hit hammer midle,hit very soft ! and you get two piece.That hit is same what feedpump reduce and twist is what oilpump reduce... -
#262 by TurboJ on 18 Apr, 2009 05:55
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The broken shafts have indeed snap into two pieces (!)
Some of these engines have been tuned, some have not.
It may also have something to do with driven miles, most IDI VWs in Finland have LOTS of miles under their belt.
About the lightened shaft - I guess it might actually improve the crack resistance when the surface is basically polished... Anyway, out aim on my engine has been to eradicate all known weak spots so the engine won't explode due to any other reason than excessive boost and fueling :twisted: -
#263 by TurboJ on 24 Apr, 2009 07:40
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She's back home, finally with a new coat of paint!
The pictures are pretty bad quality, but that's all i could get right now..
The garage is so small and my camera doesn't work with artificial light, but at least you can see that the car didn't turn blue
I met up with Aki, and we worked on the engine again
(patience, pictures will follow once it's all in one piece!)
Anyway, Aki sand-blasted my inlet manifold:
I'll probably polish the plenum part, and paint the runners silver.
I'll see how that turns out in a while..
Since everything that goes under the hood needs to look new or better, the transmission needed some attention too.
From this
...through this...
...to this
Now nearly all under-hood parts are ready to be fitted, I only have to fab up the downpipe and boost pipes and then it's basically ready for final installation. Soon the engine will be ready and meanwhile I'll be working with the floor pan, interior panels, sound proofing and wires, not to mention the rear axle and brakes. Hopefully I can get it done before summer... -
#264 by Alleslowbuged on 25 Jun, 2009 06:39
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Dear TurboJ,
anything new in process?
Best Regards
Clemens
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#265 by TurboJ on 25 Jun, 2009 11:56
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Thanks for asking, I'm working on it almost daily, but there's so little time...
I haven't been able to upload my pictures recently because my home PC went bang, and I haven't been able to get a new one just yet.
Next weekend is again going to be busy, and hopefully I can also post some pictures of the progress.
This topic is definetely not dead, it's just been quiet for a while...
...which is nothing like the Jetta will be once I fire it up
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#266 by TurboJ on 05 Jul, 2009 06:49
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Been busy with every possible other aspect of life besides diesel VWs recently, but I can report that the engine is finally done! Now the pump is under modification, and hopefully soon I'll be able to fit the engine back onto the Jetta.
I noticed an interesting thing when I took apart the fuel tank of the Jetta.
The feed line for the fuel pump only has 4 mm inner diameter. That sounds really, really thin.
Can it possibly flow enough for 200+ horsepower?
If any of you have met problems with insufficent fuel flow due to too thin feed pipes, please let me know...
...and most importantly how you have fixed the problem. The plastic cylindrical 'thing' that goes into the fuel tank doesn't really allow for easy modification due to its complex design. At least in the case of '91 ecoTD that my car was when this tank / ancillaries were fitted at Wolfsburg. -
#267 by Alleslowbuged on 05 Jul, 2009 10:35
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Dear TurboJ,
this sound really thin, my 1984 Golf Mk2 TD (72 HP) has had a 6mm or 7mm tube as stock.
Unfortunately i do not have a easy fix for you, but if you just change the long part, from the tank to the pump, this should be enough.
Best Regards
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#268 by TurboJ on 30 Jul, 2009 01:45
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Dear TurboJ,
this sound really thin, my 1984 Golf Mk2 TD (72 HP) has had a 6mm or 7mm tube as stock.
Unfortunately i do not have a easy fix for you, but if you just change the long part, from the tank to the pump, this should be enough.
Best Regards
Hmm.. Do you mean inner or outer diameter 6 mm?
As it happens, my Eco-TD fuel tank has a 6 mm fuel feed pipe, but that only leaves the aforementioned 4 mm inside diameter.
BTW, does anyone know if a Jetta III / Vento fuel tank would fit on a mk2 Jetta? -
#269 by ryanp on 30 Jul, 2009 01:56
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i know a mk3 golf tank fits, look the P/n's up!
Any other updates?
Ry
