Jetta project 200

[TurboJ]

Time for a little update again.

It's mostly just bodywork progress once again, but that's always what takes most time and effort on old cars like this...

The body after finishing the interior re-painting process...





Spraying the clearcoat finish on the interior panels resulted in a layer of clearcoat dust everywhere.
It's fun how you have to thoroughly clean the interior before AND after the paint job.

I also got the bottom of the floor ready for first layer of primer:

...it's pig ugly that's for sure, but my aim was to make the bottom last as well as possible - there's either
well-preserved factory rust proofing, acid primer or pure acid-treated steel everywhere. All the seams have also been re-sealed with silicone glue. That's why it looks funny like that. Tomorrow some primer on there, so it'll look less disturbing.

[TurboJ]

And once I got the interior surface looking like this...

...it was time to beging laying some sound deadening sheets on there:

Vibroplast is basically some butyl sheets with aluminum covering; it attaches like glue to all clean surfaces, and as the butyl does not dry up at all, the adhesion is pretty permanent. In this case VP is better than bitumen, as it doesn't get brittle and hard over time. It should also take heat and cold well, and be able to keep water from penetrating. It's supposed to be light for the amount of sound deadening it offers, so that should work well with this build.
And no, I'm not going to fit some monster stereo equipment, I just want to be able to drive longer distances without ear plugs  

And so the work begun:








And finally, after quite a long time laying those sheets around (with a lot of measuring and cutting), the floor part of the interior was done.





I sealed most of the gaps between the sheets with aluminum tape, my aim was to make the 'new surface' as water-resistant as possible. Hopefully rust will keep at bay with all the effort that's been put to this.
I'm hoping I can get away with only the Vibroplast coating, and not need any extra sound deadening; time will tell of course. If I can avoid factory-style bitumen/rubber/wool kind of stuff, I'll save quite a bit of weight, and also get to keep away from materials that store moisture. Let's see if it works or not!

[TurboJ]

Then something for the suspension/brakes department;
With my original G60 front calipers there was a little error by me when I took them out for sand basting, and the result
was the slide "holes" of the caliper carriers got some blasting, and the surfaces turned out so rough I didn't want to risk using them. And as luck would have it, the caliper carriers can't be had for any reasonable price anywhere.

So I turned once again to ebay.de and found a set of Corrado Vr6 front calipers for a good price:




These are Lucas, as the others were Girling - do you guys know if there are any differences?
Now I should have two sets of good calipers (that both need some sand, paint and new gaskets etc), and one set of good caliper carriers. Do you know if the Lucas carriers fit the Girling calipers?
And furthermore, has anyone seen these 54-mm brake pistons sold separately, or slide bolts for any rational price somewhere?

[TurboJ]

This is the first time this winter that I feel things are really going forward. Now there's only the bottom of the floor to finish, and after that I can slowly begin to put the car back together. It's sure been a heck of a long time coming! 

And yes, there's still the small question of wires to consider...
I wasn't very smart about the wiring when I started this project, and only a short while ago did I strip the body completely of wires. I currently have three full sets of Golf/Jetta wiring looms scattered around the attic, and once again I have been surprised just how long it can take to figure out and label all the wires, even on a car as simple as a diesel Jetta.

And as I have three looms to work with, I stripped the 'GTD' fuse box of all its wires:


I wanted to get rid of the mystic extra wires it came with, including a special control unit for both the glow plug circuit, and the electric coolant pump for the OE turbocharger. Plan is I'll use a normal 1.6 TD fusebox assembly, and plug in the best ones of each wires I have on the different looms. And scrap all unnecessery ones in the process.

The GTD fuse box looks like this:

It came like that from the factory, the relays 38 and 46 are for the coolant pump and the glow plug controller respectively. Those I want to throw to the bin, as they are both annoyingly connected to pretty much everything on the fuse box!

So these won't be going back on the car.


I drew a schematic of the GTD fuse box connectors, as this version with water-cooled turbo isn't covered by the Bentley manual's wiring diagrams.

Plan is to build a new setup using partly this schematic, partly the basic Jetta TD setup, and partly Bentley's diagram to come up with a new, simplified electric system. I know, it sounds challenging, but at least I have professional help to rely on, courtesy of a good friend who happens to be an electronics engineer. There'll be some "minor" work involved, because I plan to also incorporate headlight relays, battery relocation, glow plug relay -and fuse upgrade, stereo wiring and alarm system electrics to the same "master" bundle - goal is to make it look like it was factory made. That's me being obsessive once again.

Here's the difference between a base  '90 1.6 TD (left) and the 80-hp SB set (right), although the extra relays were already removed in this picture. There's still an awful lot of wires to grapple with when it's all in one big messy heap, even if it is a '91 VW. To date I have completely dismantled two of the three full wiring looms I have, and it's looking pretty good, as far as franken-wires are concerned. Too bad next week is all school and no fun...


That's it for today, I think the next update may be slightly more interesting - at least I hope it will! Till then, keep boosting those IDIs!

[rallydiesel]

Do you still have the electric turbo coolant pump? I'd like to see a pic of it and how it connects to the coolant system or is it separate? I have a big vnt with coolant ports that I would like to liquid cool at some point.

[TurboJ]

Do you still have the electric turbo coolant pump? I'd like to see a pic of it and how it connects to the coolant system or is it separate? I have a big vnt with coolant ports that I would like to liquid cool at some point.

No, sold it on along with the OE turbo. I may have some pictures on another computer. I'll check it out when I get a chance.

[1outof5]

is vibroplast readely available in you country? non existant in france as is alternative sound deadening mats and dynamat is extremely expensive

[TurboJ]

Yeah, it's available - not as cheap as I would like, but available yes. I'm going to need some more of that stuff too, I still have to cover the firewall and the rear fender corners. Vibroplast seems a good choice, I'll just have to wait and see if I can get away with no other means of sound insulation. There will be some underbody stone chip spray going on the bottom side though, that should help some too.

[theman53]

Any pics of that exhaust manifold? Or have you been hiding from the weather just like me? How is it comming. I would love to see or hear something.

[Kudagra]

Wonderful build.

I have a few tidbits Id like to insert though.

I personally am very unimpressed by the 02A transmission. The weak part of them is the 2nd gear synchro. Its a silly 3 piece, tinfoil thing. Its way over complicated (on a VW...really?) and very weak. The 02As also suffer from the biggest drawback of the 020s..SMS. If you have yours apart..or if you dont Id do it anyway...Id replace those horrible rivets with a bolt kit.  If you have your buddy make them whip up a batch of 200 (20 transmissions worth) and unload them...people will buy them. The other draw backs to an 02A are sourcing one (you already have) and the hydro clutch. Personally I like a cable. They are easier to rebuild then 020.

If I remember the main reason rods fail in these motors is the center cylinders get more air then the outside cylinders..so the inners are stressed unevenly from the outside rods. Your modified manifold should solve this.

Truckinwagon should have at least one spare girdle. I never paid for mine. Divorce tends to take priority over the VWs. Too bad..because my VW never ran off with another driver..thats loyalty.

[RabbitJockey]

020s are cheap and plentiful thats why i have yet to be worried about swapping to an 02a or 02j

[TurboJ]

Any pics of that exhaust manifold? Or have you been hiding from the weather just like me? How is it comming. I would love to see or hear something.

Hmmm.. No pics right now, it'll have to be finished first ( the flange needs some more work and the W/G pipe needs to be fabricated and welded on). I'm not sure when that'll happen as I'm very busy with my studies and my daily driver Jetta right now.

I have't been very active in updating laltely, but there's nothing real to update just yet. The gas Jetta needs a new engine as I decided to quit playing with the carburettor altogether when the carb decided to stop playing with me
So I'm swapping in a CIS-fuelled 1.8i, GTI spec. Also my previous daily, a '88 Audi 80 Quattro has kept me busy as I'm preparing it for sales puproses. The red diesel monster is well and my H-profile rods have arrived too, I expect to go over the engine just one more time to fit them right after I get the CIS swap done and the Audi sold.

Nice to see people are still interested after all this time! Oh how good it would be if I didn't have to work with all that other boring stuff and just be able to focus on the TD!

[TurboJ]

Wonderful build.

I have a few tidbits Id like to insert though.

I personally am very unimpressed by the 02A transmission. The weak part of them is the 2nd gear synchro. Its a silly 3 piece, tinfoil thing. Its way over complicated (on a VW...really?) and very weak. The 02As also suffer from the biggest drawback of the 020s..SMS. If you have yours apart..or if you dont Id do it anyway...Id replace those horrible rivets with a bolt kit.  If you have your buddy make them whip up a batch of 200 (20 transmissions worth) and unload them...people will buy them. The other draw backs to an 02A are sourcing one (you already have) and the hydro clutch. Personally I like a cable. They are easier to rebuild then 020.

If I remember the main reason rods fail in these motors is the center cylinders get more air then the outside cylinders..so the inners are stressed unevenly from the outside rods. Your modified manifold should solve this.

Truckinwagon should have at least one spare girdle. I never paid for mine. Divorce tends to take priority over the VWs. Too bad..because my VW never ran off with another driver..thats loyalty.

Divorce... Yes, what I perfect scheme for delaying turbo projects!   I just put in the final paperwork earlier today, and I can say I'm very relieved! Now, if only my other lovers (the silver one and the white one) would cooperate!

About the 02A:s, sure, they have their problems too, but they are much harder wearing than the 020s anyway.
Luckily it's very easy to find 02As around here. If I had the money, I would definetely swap in a 6-speed out of a Mk5 PD. For now the 02A will do, and if it won't hold together, I'll upgrade the next one, or think about another transmission type.
Locally we haven't had many problems with the 02As not holding on, but that could change when the next generation of Finnish TDs hit the streets during the next few months 
...speaking of which, there are some very interesting developments going on in Aki's new workshop...  14 mm plunger ends are the least radical modifications there.

Kudagra, you seem to know your VWs - we have noticed the exact same thing around here about the rods and bearings.
There is a new evolution of the twin-plenum intake too, my friend is working hard to optimize the design so that the flow would be exactly even (it's not an easy task). The latest evolution has two opposite inlets and too helper-plenums to go with that, along with trumpet-shaped inlet extensions in the main plenum.
I hope my "cheapo" H-profiles will at least be stronger than stock rods, anyway, as our calculations mostly suggest even the stock rods would have just cut it. Hopefully with these rods the engine will be fine in the 'detuned' 200-hp tune; with the tube header/turbo/wastegate combo that's going to be on this engine, max power could probably be 25-30 hp more.
Safe 200 hp? There's hoping.

I also hope I'll be able to work on the 'monster' more during this spring. Weather is one thing too - the garage isn't too big so being able to open the doors and do some of the work outside will make things easier.
Now if I only could resist the temptation to spend too much time on the daily....

[Alleslowbuged]

Hi,

nice to hear, that you still working on your diesel driver, and yes i am still interessted in your project and i am nearly the same exicted than last year in april to read the results from your engine work.

Best regards
Alleslowbuged

P.S. And i also know how other cars could slow down "main" project.   

[Aki-76]

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/moottorin%20osia/29032010808.jpg

headflow datasheet
 
http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/asiakas%20osia%20ja%20muuta/tsivirtauslappu.jpg

orginal and my new twin turbo head,u see difrend