Jetta project 200

[Aki-76]

now i have new turbo and a engine power is sufficient.

and i have some new ideas for traction..

[Rabbit on Roids]

Aki... your car is friggen sweet. how do you find real estate for a super, and 2 very large turbos?

[Aki-76]

jeah.
now i have new car body to build for faster..
four-wheel drive and ventos old engine whit new turbos 

lighter and faster =)

[rallydiesel]

Got any more vids of your engine bay? You rock by the way! 

[Alleslowbuged]

Hi,

what`s on TurboJ, no progress since june?
Come on and do not longer torture us.

Best Regards
Alleslowbuged 

[TurboJ]

Once again I'm just dropping by quickly, but I'd like you people to know that I am in fact still alive 

The car has only been waiting for my attention lately as I simply do not have the time.

BUT, I'm never any good in quitting anything, so it will all be done sooner than later!

Thanks for all the interest, I'll try to browse through all the personal messages too, soon.

Happy boosting!

[TurboJ]

Time to update the latest stuff...

My life has gone through some pretty big changes; a new fiancee, new lines of work... But also new energy and motivation!

I have made time plans far too many times to stress too much over such things, but the fact is once the latest shipments of parts come in, I won't be missing many anymore... So I think it is realistic to get the car running this winter, so that it'll be ready for the 2012 season. I hope, I hope...

I'll put up some pictures since the last ones are more than a year old already  

All the pics are thumbnails, so CLICK FOR BIGGER PICS

I continued working on the body shell:


..which led to the notion that there was still some more rust in the back end of the floor pan  

Quickly repaired though, since I don't feel rust repairs on the underside of a car have to be pretty.

Now the entire floor and all the wheel wells have been rust proofed too, at least two layers of Tectyl on each spot.

[TurboJ]

The blue tape is there to stop the thinner rust proofing agent from spilling all over..


I went through the windscreen and back window frames with the stuff...


....as well as the box sections:


Should be OK for a mostly-summer vehicle I guess.

[TurboJ]

Since I had progressed with the sound proofing and wiring also (pictures are on following posts), it was time to put the screens on:


A good friend helped with the fitting and also sourced a new front screen seal.
The back screen is used, I had choice of two, and so is the seal, so I hope that won't cause any problems..

I'll have to polish the rear screen a bit though, there is glue residue from stickers and a third brake light, as well as scrapes from past winters.

[TurboJ]

The paint guy who did the bodywork's finish had already painted a badgeless grille I had, but during the 3+ years of this build my style opinion has tilted towards an OEM grille. So I had to paint an old one that I had lying around.



...which ofcourse required a badge to be finished in a suitable colour:


Should be fine, but too bad it'll still take many, many weeks before I get to put it on to see how it looks for real.

[TurboJ]

When I was preparing the body for the paint shop back in 2009, I had a terrible hurry in repairing the windscreen wiper holes. Following my typical luck, the wiper axle holes were too small, so I had to grind some filler and metal off...


Now the wiper motor and arms, axles fit like a glove, finally.

[TurboJ]

I have also been working with the sound insulating stuff.

Standardplast products work fine for me, nice pricing and easy application.

I put some Vibroplast on the fire wall's inside, plus the wheel wells.


I also did the rear seat area and rear wheel wells.


...and since I now wanted to do the trunk area too, I had to clean it up a bit:


And this is the end result:


A project of three years has changed some of my objectives a couple of times.
A while back I wanted to make this car almost 'full race', but now I'm after a more civilized result. That means I have started thinking more about the sound levels. I'm not building a stereo car - I'm not interested in that stuff at all, but I want the car to be easy on the ears on longer trips of which there will be many in the future.

So I also put some silicone seam filler on all the lateral seams on the inner roof:

That should help the vibration-induced noise from the roof area, without having to put on any heavy insulating stuff this high-up (would not be nice for weight distribution).

The aluminum-covered butyl sheets work best against low-frequency noise and vibrations, so something else was needed for high-frequency noise:

This adhesive-backed foam stuff is good for that, although stupidly expensive...

I covered all the seams with some special tape to help the seams not let unnecessery sound waves through, and also to stop the glue residue from sticking to the carpets later on:



It looks likely that this is the only piece of factory sound proofing that will stay in this car.

For the rest, I'm trying a kit supplied by VW Heritage UK.

So I will still have factory-style sound deadening mats on the floor, but under them a foam solution, under which there is the butyl mat. That should be quite enough, even though the factory "filler" style stuff has been removed from the floor.

I'll see how it works next spring I guess!

[TurboJ]

The heater system could now be fitted. Somehow it felt like a big deal to me.

It took three heaters to build one decent unit  
Well, now at least I can dismantle and fit together a mk2 heater system!


...on it went:



Which meant I could now start building the wiring harness. Now, about this I was really enthusiastic! 

[TurboJ]

I'm not doing a full wire tuck thing, but I want the engine bay to look clean and simple all the same.

My focus is on useability, so the plan was from the beginning to make one wiring loom for the engine, and another for the stuff that's on the very nose of the car. That one, which handles the headlights, horn, rad fan etc, will go through the rain tray and the left fender. The engine loom will go where it goes normally, but this way there will be a lot less wires.

Also, I'm converting my '91 electric system to use older heat and pressure sensors, so that I can use cast aluminium water flanges on the engine. This also lessens the need for many wires, since I can use the engine as a ground for many of the sensors.

I'm building a 4-branch system for the glow plugs:



An artsy picture of the whole mess; although that's only about 1/4 of the wires there yet!



Here you can see how I routed the 'secondary front loom´:


(it's the big cable that goes over the heater housing and from there onto the rain tray)

[TurboJ]

The front brakes needed some attention..



So I had the calipers sand blasted and powder-coated:



Then I sprayed on some bright red caliper paint.



I hope the calipers will look fine when I get to dismantle them  
The sand blasting has to be done with the pistons, seals and hoses attached so it's a risky business, but I'm sure they're fine...

I also managed to find some cheap OE rear brake shields, and treated them to some hammerite:



Sometimes (not often) it's useful to work as a auto parts salesman:

Needless to say, I didn't have to pay exactly the list price for the DS pads. Now the car should be able to stop too, even though I only have the OE 280mm G60 front brakes and regular GTI rear discs. Brembo or AP Racing WOULD be cool, but the price, you know...