Head Gasket

[79rabbit4dr]

Been searching and can't find any sort of list or way to tell what head gasket I need for my 81 1.6l na. AND, the search told me I can't search for something right after having just performed a search :roll:, I told it to shut up and find me what I actually wanted then... things aren't going well.

I've seen a lot of stuff I don't understand, 11mm head, 12mm head, how many notches, metal, rubber, cork... I'm sure I'm over complicating things.

My rig is all stock, I just need a new head gasket, nothing fancy (just quality). How do I know which one to order?

P.S. I know I can just call one of our trusted vendors and ask them for one (and I will), but I'd like to know what to look for, in case of a pinch and I don't have the time to order it and wait for shipping.

P.P.S. and I put the subject simply as Head Gasket in hopes that a list/explanation could be posted here and it'll make searching for "which head gasket do i need" a little easier to find relevant information.

THANKS!!!

[cyrus #1]

When searching, be sure to click the box that says "search for all terms".  The default is "search for any terms..." and it doesn't do a lot of good in many cases.

If your rig is stock, it should have 11mm bolts.  You're just looking for a stock replacement so don't worry about metal gaskets etc.  The stock fiber gasket should be fine.

There should be a series of notches or holes by the oil drain hole in the front center of the gasket.  These holes represent the thickness of the gasket.  VW used different gaskets to compensate for different piston protrusions.  Some people will say you need to measure the piston protrusion to be sure (this is a good idea).  If you pull the gasket and it's original it should be pretty safe to go with the same number of holes.  

Edit: A picture of the holes can be seen here.  This is a 3 notch gasket.  http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/SAE/figure_62.jpg

[bridgetroll13]

Make sure you don't do what I did and put it on upside down. This will starve the head of oil. Even though at first glance it looks like it could go either way there is an oil passage that definitely orients one way only. Before you remove the old one hold the new one up next to it to make sure which way. The tab sticking out with the notches on it is not always on the same side so that is not a good indicator either. I swapped out a perfectly good one before I found that out. If you have the funky "three square" drive head bolts then they are stretch bolts that shouldn't be re-used. Buy the right driver for this as they can really be a b*tch to get out.

I think there may be some other types that are re-usable but I'm no expert.

[saurkraut]

The top side of the gasken should say "OBEN".

Although you probably have the reusable allen head bolts, I suggest you plan on tossing them in the steel recycling bin.  Their insertion length is way too short.  Its a real issue.  You may crack the block when you put it back togather.

I suspect its a design error.  Probably the same bolts that went in the gas motors, but the diesel head is thicker.

Seriously consider getting head studs from Raceware or ARP.

Or take one of the bolts to a local fastener vendor like FASTENAL and get longer bolts.  Eye ball how for the stock bolts protrude from the head, measure the depth of the hole in the block, and get somthing just a little shorter.

[theman53]

If it is all stock and has never been opened up then count the number of notches and buy that one.  The notches are critical and determine thickness of the head gasket. 1 is thinnest 3 is thickest. If you don't know and the best way to determine which one is to measure piston protrusion. Lots of guys make and some sell a tool to to this. Basically how far out of the block you pistons stick out tells you what head gasket to use.

[79rabbit4dr]

So there is no way to know until AFTER you remove the head?

I have the triple square ones that are the same as the inner axle bolts. funky 12 pt star thing.

So I need to replace the head bolts when I do the head gasket. Anything else?(just did timing belt/water pump)

[saurkraut]

FAQ:

http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=6741

You should be able to see the notches or holes on the tab of the gasket that is poking out the front of the block.

[theman53]

the head bolts are a 12mm triple square and i think the inner axle are 8mm triple square.
There is no for sure way, but whatever head gasket is in the car now and running fine should work. Ex. 2 notch gasket in now then you can buy a 2 notch gasket to replace it. The notches and holes are the same.

[79rabbit4dr]

FAQ:

http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=6741

You should be able to see the notches or holes on the tab of the gasket that is poking out the front of the block.

Thanks for the FAQ.

Dang, I didn't see anything coming out the front when I was looking at the leakage, but i'll check again. Thanks!

[cyrus #1]

You may have to scrape some gunk off.  :lol:

[79rabbit4dr]

Man it's hard tell for sure (having never seen a new gasket in real life) but I think the one I have is a 3 notch.

I took some pictures, can anyone tell me for sure if I'm even looking at the right thing. And if those are the three notches i'm supposed to look for.

[Vincent Waldon]

Yup, that would be 3 notches.

The problem now is that a 3-notcher is the universal gasket... meaning that the person that assembled the engine the last time may have just thrown one in rather than measuring piston protrusion properly.

No way to know for sure until you measure for yourself.  :wink:




Vince

[79rabbit4dr]

hmmm... it's running really good right now, had my neighbor (30+ yr. diesel mechanic) take a listen and he said it sounds really good. I even have the timing advanced to .95 mm (low end of "performance range"). How critical is it to measure protrusion if it running smoothly now?

[Vincent Waldon]

The question is, do you feel lucky, punk ??



The gasket sets the size of the squish area... so cold weather starting is compromised if you use a gasket thicker than required.  That's not something you're gonna "hear" at the moment !

Obviously your call.

[79rabbit4dr]

The gasket sets the size of the squish area... so cold weather starting is compromised if you use a gasket thicker than required.

Is that something that can be overcome w/ a block heater (it has one), or keeping it garaged or are you referring to internal metals expanding/contracting?
Sorry if this is a stupid question...  :oops: