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#30
by
drrtybyl
on 28 Feb, 2009 17:50
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Does anyone know for sure if the oil passages line up the same on the 1.5 block as with the 1.6? The 1.5 doesn't have the ridges the 1.6 does where the squirters plug in. I don't want to blindly start drilling holes.
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#31
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 28 Feb, 2009 19:35
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unless you are extremely confident of your skills, i wouldnt tackle this job. and i wouldnt do it unless your gonna make tons of power or really high combustion pressures. i ran the snot out of my 1.5 and i never even came close to melting a piston, never had an EGT gauge either. just had the stock oil cooler on it and it always stayed cool.
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#32
by
theman53
on 01 Mar, 2009 06:42
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I would assume it is the same, BUT I don't know it. Looks like the same IM shaft location, same trans bolt pattern, and same oil pump parts but I don't know about the oiling. The way VW likes to reuse everything in the design makes me think they wouldn't change it. I would say go for it and if it were me I would go for it on a rusted cracked junk yard block first if I had the option. Or ask someone on the forum that has a junk one they could drill really quickly for you.
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#33
by
drrtybyl
on 04 May, 2009 20:13
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It's kind of hard to tell in this picture, but when pulling and re-ringing pistons I discovered that the oil ring in #4 wasn't expanding at all: it was being held shut by all the carbon and other crap lining the piston..
Apparently all of those extra pieces you get in the super-low budget pump timing kit are good for something
First coat of outer primer
Tons of dents (pre-popping)
This area has been tons of sanding/filler work to flatten even with most of the pitting pulled and hammered out.
The body is almost completely smooth and ready for basecoat at this point...
My 1.5 is now ready to go. Just need to finish the body and drop the engine in.
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#34
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 04 May, 2009 20:28
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rotate it over just a box hair to touch the deck to achieve zero. then rotate it a box hair back on to the piston. or is my thinking wrong?
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#35
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 04 May, 2009 20:40
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i actually considered that, but wasnt for sure if everything was threaded. so, yea, it wouldnt give an accurate reading..
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#36
by
drrtybyl
on 04 May, 2009 20:43
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Deck was set horizontal with a level; dial reset with straight edge held across the deck/piston.. The assembly there is very rigid. Got the same protrusion measurements for 1/4 and 2/3 with multiple checks.
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#37
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 04 May, 2009 20:45
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I suppose you could place a piece of fairly sturdy piece of flat across the cylinder with the piston below it. Then measure to the top of the piece of flat and zero the gauge. Then bring the piston up.
you know what, i had that exact idea right after i did my last post, but i was just too damn lazy to edit my post. lol
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#38
by
drrtybyl
on 09 Jul, 2009 10:44
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The car is finally prepped for sealer, base and clear coat. I've been dropping in on yards for the past few months trying to find turbo parts without much luck. Yesterday I came across an amazing deal on a complete TDI from a wreck including harness, cluster etc. which I pulled and am now planning to install instead.. It's funny how the DME is located in the rain tray area right under the wipers -- just asking to be destroyed.
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#39
by
drrtybyl
on 20 Jul, 2009 08:22
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#40
by
arb
on 20 Jul, 2009 08:36
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I doubt they're compatible but, I have a 1.6L block that I just removed and stripped from a car if your interested.
I would have TIG welded it, but if you wanted to try JB weld, you should have stop drilled that crack to prevent it from propagating further, then JB welded it. remember, JB weld is great stuff for blocking a leak, but is not structural on a crack in case iron because you can't get it into the entire crack's surfaces.
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#41
by
drrtybyl
on 20 Jul, 2009 08:40
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I would have TIG welded it, but if you wanted to try JB weld, you should have stop drilled that crack to prevent it from propagating further, then JB welded it. remember, JB weld is great stuff for blocking a leak, but is not structural on a crack in case iron because you can't get it into the entire crack's surfaces.
I now have a TDI that is going in the car instead.. So the topic title is a bit misleading I guess.
Also, the crack was V-ed out and drilled at the ends.. I just went overboard with the plugging.
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#42
by
lord_verminaard
on 21 Jul, 2009 07:58
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Outdoor paint booth, I like it!
Build is looking good!
Brendan
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#43
by
Rabbit TD
on 21 Jul, 2009 21:38
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Outdoor paint booth, I like it!
Build is looking good!
Brendan
Yes I like that paint booth too and you can get those canopy thiings pretty cheap now days and use it as a car cover too, until it blows away
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#44
by
drrtybyl
on 22 Jul, 2009 07:25
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Nice Ride! I always wanted a TDI Radio Flyer. 
LAWL
Thanks for the encouragement Lord_V. I'm really having to move with this as it had transitioned into the -getting yelled at- phase. That's mostly gone away now that some paint is down.
Would my 1.5 have enough power to push a mid 80s s10 Blazer with a k04 & turbo pump added? I see that those trucks had an optional 2.2L Isuzu diesel engine that put out 58HP... It would need mount fab and trans adapter plate? My dad's '84 came with the "powerful" 2.8L V6 that puts down 110HP/148lbs and gets between 13-18MPG. The emissions vacuum on the thing is a horribly twisted nightmare.
