My 1.6td/aaz head and other stuff too. - page 1 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• My 1.6td/aaz head and other stuff too. by Smokey Eddy on 18 Sep, 2008 16:03
• I warn you this isn't very exciting but it tells people who i am when they see me post.
  
  I've had my 1.6td jetta for 2 years now and it's transformed a bit in appearance  and performance wise and plummeted through the floor with reliability and now it's really dead.
  It has 350k on it so im not surprised it has enough blow by to cause run aways, cracks between every pair of valves big enough to let coolant in AND require countless items to be replaced. (hoses, wiring, fluid tanks and other expected items)
  
  A little background may explain some of my choices and actions. I got this car for $500 in grade 11 and had 1 semester of auto class so i thought i could take on the challenge of keeping a diesel alive. Grade 12 rolls around i take auto again because it saved me tons of money the previous year and that year i got to build a '73 Nova with a 400 in it and race it for the school - fun stuff. I hadn't really done much other than 1 HG. I found a couple sites like this one and thought to my self, "hey maybe this could be a fun car!" (it was really slow) I changed the seals in the pump to accept biodiesel and at the same time did the govenor mod and timing advance spring/shim removal. I ordered some mercedez nozzles and tried to get it to start better from then on. I was told the pump needed to be replaced and it would cost thousands so i said screw that i don't have that kind of money and i need a car to go to work. (It wouldn't start in the first place, hence the 500$ but i somehow managed with the help of a block heater)
  
  SO! here we are, i still have no money (going to university) it's flat black (roller style), coilies on the back (cant get the front struts apart :evil: ), euro bumpers, no rear door handles coz they were broken, bigger tires 165/75/r15 with flat black bbs style rims with chrome studs, home made glow plug relay/switch and it wont start anymore at all no matter how long i jump it for but i can always roll it but that's getting rediculous.
  
  My parts collection!
  ARP head studs
  1.6 bottom end to be 1mm over bored (Edit: hone now due to lack of funds)
  mercedez nozzles
  building a 3' down pipe and exhaust (Edit: possibly switching to a 2.5)
  volvo intercooler im going to cut in half and tig to be twice as thick and remove the plastic (Edit: looks like its going in the big bumper as is now)
  1.9 AAZ head and TDI intake from prothe with EGT gauge w/sender, boost gauge, oil temp and i need a water temp still.
  I somehow picked up an oil cooler that is so filthy i dunno what to do with. It needs new hoses.
  
  My plans
  Have completely changed....
  aaz head + porting (nothing crazy mostly polish)
  maybe 25 pounds of boost if the intercooler takes it.
  
  Through my job i have access to a HVLP sprayer so im waiting for my boss to give me a date when i can borrow it for a week or so when the painting season slows down so i've always been waiting to paint it. I think it's going to go glossy black.
  
  
  It had some embarassing body damage and rust so i just removed all the plastic and did some body work and prepped it for priming
  I had to reshape this fender because it was missing one.
  
  
  as you can see its flat black now. I used the mineral spirit tremclad method because it was easy and fast bust most of all cheap!
  
  My boost gauge set up as seen in a previous post. At least i keep it clean. (Edit: thats gone now i couldn't stand the buzzing of the dial on the pin)
  
  the volvo intercooler - its massive
  
  Looks chaulky because i waxed it, i shouldnt have. Also missing the metal bumper.  I had to modify it to accept the euro bumper and had it ground down and painted with rust paint (by the grade 11's obviously) because it was a little rusty. OH and it doesn't have the coilies on in that picture. The rear tires are super super tucked into the fenders now and the ride is really tight with just the back ones in. I didn't wax or buff the gas cap flap (haha some onamatpoia there) so it looks nice and the rest doesnt haha.
  
  Pretty sure im using the wrong thickness (3 hole) head gasket because from my recollection the pistons don't protude at all. THAT could single handedly possibly be the cause of the starting issues. Depending on the protrusion with the new pistons im getting (im going to keep using the stock rods because i dont trust the chinese ones fom prothe) will determine the new HG. I sorta hope i was using the wrong thickness HG because then it will put less blame on my IP. This is a photo from the first time i took the head off. The first job in gr.11. (EDIT: Was the wrong HG. need a 1 hole. And no more new pistons anyways so... what can you do!)
  
  No more interesting photo's yet. I have tons of the head and the block without a head on it because i'd never see that before but we all have on here haven't we. All of the above photos are at least 3-4 months old except for the boost gauge one.
  
  Oh and i kept the roof racks of course. I took the locking plates off. they were broken and i was told that the racks couldnt be taken off. Yeah what ever they came off (Edit: wish i had a picture of that *ahem* removal :roll: )
  
  still waiting for parts  
  
  My project is basically to make a reliable efficient car to go to school and back that will also launch me up the mountains to ski resorts and still start up there in the cold!!!
  Edited as of Nov.4 '08
• #1 by Smokey Eddy on 18 Sep, 2008 16:07
• 1.9 head, pistons, egt to be here 2 weeks from the 28th!
• #2 by zukgod1 on 18 Sep, 2008 16:47
• Sweet, so explain to me what you mean when you say you are going to cut the IC in half..
• #3 by Smokey Eddy on 19 Sep, 2008 00:10
• Cut the IC along the middle row of fins. weld up the bottoms of the top piece and weld up the tops of the bottom piece and cut the backs of the top piece off at the sides and the front off the bottom piece at the sides and tig it all together.
  
  Basically cut the sides OFF and then build new ones piece by piece that would join the top and bottom halves from the inside out so that i can get that first weld on the side closes to the fins.
  
  Does that make sense?
  It's hard to imagine but i'd drawn it up
• #4 by Dirtrag2 on 19 Sep, 2008 06:30
• looks like a nice project, you goin' more for power or reliability/economy??
  BTW I like the flat black, looks stealth  
• #5 by Smokey Eddy on 19 Sep, 2008 13:50
• At night even near a street light it dissapears.
  Um... im going for better than stock but as reliable as my own work can provide so..
  I'm not going to try and push 40psi into it or anything silly like that or increase the compression more than it needs to be. Nothing extreme. Just what ever my set up would allow and still be moderately reliable
• #6 by Smokey Eddy on 22 Sep, 2008 04:35
• I'm getting VERY excited! 20 days until parts get here (hopefully)!
  
  ok! what am i missing?
  aaz head, 1.6 lifters (from old head), 8mm aaz valves + seats, cam, egt stuff, 1mm over bore pistons, tdi intake... ... ... ... I'm gonna clean the injectors again.
  Get my pump timed properly with a gauge. (what should i time to? 1.00 or 1.05 or what? suggestions?)
  she's got new glow plugs already!
  
  
  for the construction of the head am i missing anything?
  Im planning on reusing the 1.6 exhaust manifold
  
  
  Do i have to do anything with the hard lines from the pump to match with the injectors once they're on the 1.9 head?
  
  I also had a question about one of my pictures...
  the picture of the block, are those arcs the honing marks? how does my block look from that picture? I don't need to have it planed or anything do i? those arcs are from the machining right?
• #7 by dillenger1 on 22 Sep, 2008 06:14
• I have that same intercooler and the ends are plastic/fiberglass?right?
• #8 by Smokey Eddy on 22 Sep, 2008 14:09
• Yeah =( plastic
  Im gonna make new ends when i double it up
• #9 by jtanguay on 22 Sep, 2008 17:25
• it's always a good idea to prep the surface of the block, but sometimes not quite necessary.  i think i remember jake or someone else using some type of pad to remove gasket material etc. to clean the block.
  
  
  
  if it looks something like that then you're fine the vertical lines aren't really a problem if you can't feel them with your nail.
• #10 by Smokey Eddy on 22 Sep, 2008 17:43
• Hmmm
  no, no honing marks anymore its perfectly smooth. not marks that you can feel with finger nails just perfectly smooth like glass except for near the top you can tell that there is a little bit of a lip where the stoke (the rings go to) ends but not enough to  catch with your nails.
  
  I'll just get it over bored bah may as well. its an extra $500 for the new pistons/rings and actual machining.
  
  Maybe i'll cancel the over bore and pistons and just get new rings and hone?
  
  ideas?
  
  and i used 2000 grit wet dry to sand the gasket residue off
  
  
  
  Also, little side note. The previous owner apparently had it rebuilt at 250 or something. I dont have calipers to measure the diam. so i don't know what the bore is if it isn't stock. Also the head is back on and im driving it so i can't really take any better pictures and photobucket scales them down to the "Crap" resolution setting so you can't zoom in on the cylinders like i can on my comp.
  augh im really in a jam about this over bore or hone buisness. I would save at least $300 if i just ringed and honed but then it's like ... but for only $300 more you could over bore and have new pistons! :O
  aughhhh wugggg grr im writhing right now. I feel like im argueing with me self. I need some pursuasion to pay the extra dough
• #11 by dillenger1 on 22 Sep, 2008 18:45
• SOME PERSUASION!  
  
• #12 by Smokey Eddy on 22 Sep, 2008 18:49
• is that an over bore?
   :mrgreen:
  
  do i have to do anything with the gasket if i get a 1mm over?
• #13 by dillenger1 on 22 Sep, 2008 22:04
• 1.9 gasket is already larger.but the  1.6 gasket is openened up to accept the largest stock bore 77.48mm or something.Its only a mm.3rd bore.standard is 76.51mm(76.48mm piston)
                   first-76.76(76.73mmpiston)
                  2nd77.01mm(76.98mmpiston)
                  3rd/final77.51(77.48mmpiston)<my bore
  I had to go final do to a bad ridge.
• #14 by Smokey Eddy on 23 Sep, 2008 04:22
• I gotchya. I'm going straight 1mm right off the bat. Did you do your own machine work?