-
#420
by
macka
on 28 Sep, 2009 11:14
-
Your metal is too thin. The vibrations are work hardening it also, you are welding too hot and too fast. All these small things are combining to make it fail. After you weld a piece going to a high vibration area, you need to heat the part, then let it slowly cool. In our shop we have an annealing oven, and we heat the part up (if wifey doesn't mind I'd max it out in the oven) then shut the oven off and let it cool overnight in the oven. This will relieve the molecular stress and it shouldn't work harden.
-
#421
by
arb
on 28 Sep, 2009 11:53
-
Your metal is too thin. The vibrations are work hardening it also, you are welding too hot and too fast. All these small things are combining to make it fail. After you weld a piece going to a high vibration area, you need to heat the part, then let it slowly cool. In our shop we have an annealing oven, and we heat the part up (if wifey doesn't mind I'd max it out in the oven) then shut the oven off and let it cool overnight in the oven. This will relieve the molecular stress and it shouldn't work harden.
You could be right. I used to work in metallurgy, but it was super alloys and high end stainless steel. I had not thought about the heat treating... What temp do you anneal mild steel at? Seems to me it would be in the 800 - 900 F range ??
-
#422
by
theman53
on 28 Sep, 2009 23:55
-
for our late model dirt track stuff we have taken it to 1600...I don't know if it would work with less, but it works there so we keep doing it. The other method was several hundred heating and cooling cycles before we took it out of the jig. By that I mean keep it in a heated garage and quickly once a day for all winter take the chasis outside when below freezing, then back in again after about 30 minutes. The brick oven works alot better though
I bet 900 would do.
-
#423
by
macka
on 28 Sep, 2009 23:57
-
most of the stuff we do is the 830* range, as we use a lot of standard structural steel. For the high carbon stuff its down around 750. There is a guy in Auburn hills who makes knives IIRC he has an oven. He also is a car nut, he was at Waterford hills a few times for the Tour D'Elegance. You could phone the gun club there as someone is bound to know him.
-
#424
by
arb
on 29 Sep, 2009 07:16
-
for our late model dirt track stuff we have taken it to 1600...I don't know if it would work with less, but it works there so we keep doing it.
Ерфе Sorry, wifey's Ukrainian keyboard. 1600 would be close to melting so it would heat treat it to "Austinite" phase. Not sure on the spelling, but basically all the crystals disappear as it is almost melted. When it cools, completely new crystals from. So, the forged crystals the original steel had would be gone. Usually this is as soft was you can get a piece. If you oil quench it, it gets lots harder. Sounds like macka does it at 830 - definitely annealing to relieve the stresses.
-
#425
by
arb
on 29 Sep, 2009 22:30
-
A reader of this forum commented to me today how bad my luck has been with one thing after anther failed... I replied I thought enough things had been replaced as new that I thought it was very very reliable such that next month I will use my IDI powered caravan to pull our camper to Cedar Point with my 13 year old son and his friends.....
Well, that's what you get when you temp carma, fait or what every you call it.... On the way to a company function, I started out on a main road in Dearborn MI (tow away) and as I neared the shift point of 1 -2 shift, pop. The trans jumped out of gear with a small sound. Not quite a pop, but definately an abnormal sound. Humm, It had done this at the begining of 3 rd gear several times, but never 2 nd... I tried again for first - My FF trans did nothing. No abmornal sounds, but no drive. I tried every gear with the same results including reverse... Humm, sounds like my differential have poped. As I pushed it back off the main street (my 4 way flasher are in-op since the 18V alternator fried the ECM) a fellow worker I've never met offered to help me push it off the street completely and on to Ford property where the cops would not mess with it. Did I ever mention how Ford is like a family? Its true. I double checked that the shifter linkage was pushing and pulling the shifter properly. It was..... Good thing I came back from Haliburton ON with an 020 trans :-) I hope it is good.
-
#426
by
macka
on 29 Sep, 2009 23:06
-
sounds like a shifter fork issue
-
#427
by
arb
on 30 Sep, 2009 08:08
-
sounds like a shifter fork issue
That is my first guess because there is no grinding sound or any other abnormal sounds coming from the gear box - its simply like its in neutral. The shifting lacks the forces it used to take to move it into gears. The First and OD gears were hard to shift into in the begining, and the first gear never got easier, so there likely was a fault in the fork assembly from the begining.
-
#428
by
arb
on 05 Oct, 2009 08:21
-
This weekend I started to swap the FF trans for the 020 I had. First I prep. the 020 - fluid flush, removing the newer style mounts and shifter linkage, cleaning it up, and removing the CV joints and the 6" of shifts that came with it, next I started to remove the FF - linkage, starter, torque mount, drivers CV joint, next.... next... next .....
The passenger CV joint had hand grenade !! I put the trans in gear and spun the engine by hand - the differential is transmitting the torque to the CV flanges !!! My guess is I could not hear the axle shaft slipping in the broken CV because of the diesel sounds....
Next I cleaned up and removed the CV from the partial axle I just removed from the 020. Tonight I hope to have it back on the car.
-
#429
by
arb
on 08 Oct, 2009 12:54
-
Last night I finished installing the half shafts with the replaced CV. When I removed the CV, in the boot there was a spacer ring for the spline. I was guessing it was below the CV, but I could not get it to properly go there, so I put it on top. Anyone have experience with this?
The splines had slightly different spacing:
Here's the toasted CV
I also re-installed the starter and tested the trans in gear after I got the car back on the ground !! HAS GEARS ! So, a slight mod to the torque engine mount to allow larger rubber spacer with more flexibility so the firewall does not vibrate apart. Reconnect the shifter cables / mounts, install the air filter / turbo IC loop and test drive.
-
#430
by
theman53
on 05 Nov, 2009 21:13
-
I missed this thread and I wanted to see how the CV are holding up?
-
#431
by
FoXBoXRaCiNG
on 05 Nov, 2009 23:10
-
For $50 I found my old roomy an 89 gas 4dr Jetta with a 'blown tranny', 150+core later...
-
#432
by
arb
on 06 Nov, 2009 16:10
-
I missed this thread and I wanted to see how the CV are holding up?
So far so good. I was worried about putting that washer on the wrong side of the joint. I should lift it this weekend and check all the bolts and check the joints.
-
#433
by
Black Smokin' Diesel
on 06 Nov, 2009 16:43
-
Last night I finished installing the half shafts with the replaced CV. When I removed the CV, in the boot there was a spacer ring for the spline. I was guessing it was below the CV, but I could not get it to properly go there, so I put it on top. Anyone have experience with this?
I had this happen only when using new washers. I always end up reusing the old ones. With the CV on the shaft I couldn't get the circlip on even by hammering on with a flathead screwdriver (the circlip not the CV).
-
#434
by
arb
on 09 Nov, 2009 13:38
-
Last night I finished installing the half shafts with the replaced CV. When I removed the CV, in the boot there was a spacer ring for the spline. I was guessing it was below the CV, but I could not get it to properly go there, so I put it on top. Anyone have experience with this?
I had this happen only when using new washers. I always end up reusing the old ones. With the CV on the shaft I couldn't get the circlip on even by hammering on with a flathead screwdriver (the circlip not the CV).
Where did you put the washer ? Next to the cir-clip, or on the other side of the CV joint?