its a chunk of 1" steel stock about 6-8 inches long with a right angle bend on the end and a hole. yea, exhaust flange, downpipe, whatever you wanna call it, same thing. i welded it to that. just takes the flex out of the exhaust. and since my exhaust system is made from 2.5 inch flex pipe, i have some serious flex.
I had issues with my turbo bolts working loose on my old stock turbo/manifold.once on the trip to anchorage from homer all four bolts fell out and the turbo was held in only by the oil lines!I was pulling vacuum and smoking like a freight train for close to 150 miles.I ran extra long bolts through and put nuts on the protruding ends, then I tack welded the nuts to the bolts and problem solved!
so what about when you wanna take it apart? you kinda have to destroy the bolts. its kinda just a less permanent solution to welding the turbo on?and wow, 4 posts since i tried to post this little piece.
Quote from: Rabbit on Roids on September 14, 2009, 08:04:34 pmok, i gotta ask, did you paint your freakin brakes? like the disk and all?That is an excellent idea. I wanted to paint them red, but I ran out of high temp red. Maybe this weekend ! I did coat the mating surfaces of the hub to pinion arm (Could not remember the proper name of the chunk of steel that ball joint, strut, tie-rod end, and wheel hub bolts too) , disc to hub, brake bracket to pinion arm, etc with Never Seize.On the Jack stands, I thought of the 1/4" plate too as I have a nice chunk, but I too was worried about sliding. The 2" wide angle iron gives a lot of surface area so it will not sink, but also allows some grip so it doesn't slide. If I was going to use it on sand, I think I'd do the plate but have it recessed so the legs still bite about 3/8" for when you're on uneven gravel like mine (it has a crown and slopes towards the garage.)
ok, i gotta ask, did you paint your freakin brakes? like the disk and all?That is an excellent idea. I wanted to paint them red, but I ran out of high temp red. Maybe this weekend ! I did coat the mating surfaces of the hub to pinion arm (Could not remember the proper name of the chunk of steel that ball joint, strut, tie-rod end, and wheel hub bolts too) , disc to hub, brake bracket to pinion arm, etc with Never Seize.On the Jack stands, I thought of the 1/4" plate too as I have a nice chunk, but I too was worried about sliding. The 2" wide angle iron gives a lot of surface area so it will not sink, but also allows some grip so it doesn't slide. If I was going to use it on sand, I think I'd do the plate but have it recessed so the legs still bite about 3/8" for when you're on uneven gravel like mine (it has a crown and slopes towards the garage.)
Quote from: arb on September 15, 2009, 08:47:45 amCould not remember the name
Could not remember the name
Quote from: Rabbit on Roids on September 15, 2009, 11:56:04 amQuote from: FoXBoXRaCiNG on September 15, 2009, 11:53:12 amQuote from: arb on September 15, 2009, 08:47:45 amCould not remember the name OMG... i want one of those. lol.The kid that got beat up on the bus yesterday needed them !! http://www.stltoday.com/stltoday/news/stories.nsf/illinoisnews/story/60D37B6EC5FF4711862576320011605B?OpenDocument
Quote from: FoXBoXRaCiNG on September 15, 2009, 11:53:12 amQuote from: arb on September 15, 2009, 08:47:45 amCould not remember the name OMG... i want one of those. lol.
how are you going to make an anti torque mount work on an engine that has nothing but torque?
I do know that I drive torque, while listening to my friends prattle on about horsepower.
what about a high durometer rubber puck sandwiched between 2 steel cups? Like the old muscle cars.