OK, let me take a stab at it...
The engine revs nicely and smooth but it sounds noiser than usual.
First off...welcome to the wonderful world of mTDI. They usually are louder than their electronically controlled counterparts do to a number of reasons. Most the mTDI's out there you'll hear remarked about sound like a cummins
when i first put it in it was constant white smoke so i guessed i got the pump timing off, i advanced it as far as i could on the pump and i got some more power so i thought hmm maybe i got it a tooth off on the sprocket so ive now moved it round 1 tooth and it seems to be quite a bit better now but i have the fuel screw hardly turned in at all and when the revs climb they hold and sometimes the engine runs away so i have no idea whats going on i need some help...
I know im not going to be able to get it perfect without the appropriate timing tools but i marked the housing when i took the pump off so i could line it back up, i should surely be able to get it somewhere near? But i mean at the minute its terribly terribly slow.
In going through all the work to install and get the mTDI or any motor swap up and running properly, your going to want to have the right timing tools, etc. to do the job. Its insurance and a margin of safety that your going to want to have down the road. Not too mention, the worked saved in guess work and potentially catastrophic engine failures that could happen down the road by not having timed the motor properly. I'm sure its been talked to death, but I'm sure you've heard of some of the horror stories of "tool-less" timing jobs. Especially with the diesels. 1 notch in the end could really hurt you and even though marking the IP orientation on the bracket doesn't acct. for belt tensioning, any slight movements, etc. Advance timing on the pump itself by hand is VERY sensitive to slight movements...and really should be set by gauge OR by a very well trained "diesel" ear. However, timing of the motor itself....really needs to have tools to make the process a success.
That my rant on tools I suppose...
Another important consideration with timing and tooling properly for it. Your "stock" setting on the old IDI motor would be somewhere in the range of 0.95-1.05mm on the old IDI TD motor (which you'll only be able to tell by using the dial indicator in the injection pump). I can tell you from experience with my motor that it ran pretty nasty in the old IDI ranges... and as you'll see below in another topic about your pump, mTDI's and DI engines in general like their timing.... I'd start at 1.10mm or so, from what I've found with my motor. I currently am supporting 1.15mm on my motor, though...thats not for everyone nor the limits.
On your problem with the pump "hanging" and running away sometimes, not having the fuel screw turned in hardly at all. It sounds like you may not have your throttle shaft indexed properly. This is the orientation of the throttle shaft to the throttle lever on the pump. Did you mark this setting when removing the throttle shaft from the pump? Was the top cover removed at all? A few ticks off can easily cause this condition, defeating the idle circuit, etc.
If you did have it off, etc. had messed with the fuel screw what you'll find is with the throttle shaft CORRECTLY indexed, that you'll have problems starting the engine...this is where the fuel screw will come in, it'll need to be adjusted in as well as the idle set screws if you have messed with them. If you need info on reindexing the throttle shaft, I can post that or PM me.
I used the TDi camplate, head and plunger assembly as well as the TDi timing cover.
Into which style of pump? Assuming a IDI 1.6 pump? There are a few more considerations that need to be pulled into the hybrid and/or "franken" pump that you speak of to make it work properly on an mTDI.
The biggest things internally with the pump could be your internal timing advance control. The mTDI's like timing advance
and can pull quite a bit of it. If you didn't "cut down" your IDI pumps internal timing piston which advancing timing, your going to run into problems with the motor lacking power as the IDI pumps timing piston will not allow for "enough" advance.
The TDI pumps timing advance setup is a good start... or cutting down the IDI piston. There is alot of good info on it on this site where even the IDI guys are doing it. The TDI pumps timing cover unfortunately won't do it all.
There are also other considerations in using the IDI pumps, but this is a start. The above things are def. something to look at. ESPECIALLY the initial timing considerations (needing 1.05-1.10mm or so at least), properly timed with a gauge and checking the indexing of your throttle shaft.
Hmm...hopefully that makes sense. Its been a long day and I'm sorta tired. Enough for now. I tried to speak as "plain" as possible, so we'll see
Good Luck. Maybe someone else will chime in with info I may be missing do to the time of night here
Joe
p.s. On your tach being off...if you went from a v-belt setup to the serp setup, than you may need to recalibrate the tach because of the pulley size... should be an easy enough adjustment on the tach board itself... I think...however, you'll need a reference so you know "when" its at the correct RPM.
Topic: mTDI no power.... (Read 7792 times)
