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#15
by
Black Smokin' Diesel
on 25 May, 2007 15:55
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Ok so dial not moving means plunger not moving but engine sputters so plunger is moving so mechs could be numbnuts but vanes could be bad. Dammit. Could bad timing/pump cause loud injector knocking?
Setting the pump aside, what would cause the engine not to start? Bad glowplugs but it's 25°c so it's not an issue and they are brand new. Low compression but the engine had compression before the head swap, the HG is new, the bolts are new and properly torqued. Could a head lose that much compression thru the valves?
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#16
by
Black Smokin' Diesel
on 28 May, 2007 16:21
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Ok so dial not moving means plunger not moving but engine sputters so plunger is moving so mechs could be numbnuts but vanes could be bad. Dammit. Could bad timing/pump cause loud injector knocking?
Setting the pump aside, what would cause the engine not to start? Bad glowplugs but it's 25°c so it's not an issue and they are brand new. Low compression but the engine had compression before the head swap, the HG is new, the bolts are new and properly torqued. Could a head lose that much compression thru the valves?
Bump any more thoughts?
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#17
by
burn_your_money
on 28 May, 2007 19:15
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Setting the pump aside, what would cause the engine not to start?
I don't think you can set the pump aside.... Do you have one of those pulleys on it that would make it possible for it to be timed 180 out? I think that might show 0 movement on the dial indicator :?:
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#18
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 29 May, 2007 09:02
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Andrew is exactly right. Don't worry about anything other than taking a reading from the end of the pump. Get that 1/8th inch 3mm movement first.Then get the 1mm you require. Injector cannot spontaneously squirt. There has to be piston movement.
Your dial gauge is not screwed in far enough or the inner rod is too short and has come from some other adaptor. The only other way of it spluttering is if there was a large residue of old fuel in the intake or someone is breathing meths down the intake :wink:
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#19
by
Black Smokin' Diesel
on 29 May, 2007 11:36
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Alright guys thanks a lot.
I'll give the shop a call and tell them to check it again with the screwdriver trick and time it if there's movement. If it's dead I'll have to replace the pump.
Well after checking the bently is all leads to either a faulty pump or bad timing (smoke, low power, hard to start if it does and it would probably get crap mpg).
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#20
by
Black Smokin' Diesel
on 01 Jun, 2007 15:12
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Ok the car finally runs as it should!!! Idle is smooth at 950-1000, no smoke, slight injector knocking and starts on the first few cranks. It's pretty low on power right now becaused I backed out the max fuel screw a bit too much
Unfortunately a rear brake line started to leak on my way home. I pinched the line to stop the brake fluid from leaking and to have decent pedal stiffness. It should be fixed this weekend.
Other thing, the oil buzzer and light came on a few times :? I know the oil pressure is good but I think it might be due to the grade of oil I used. 10w30 must be a bit too thin for summer use. If it's not that, it's probably a wiring gremlin as both sensors are new.
I gotta fix the rad fan too, it's not turning on.
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#21
by
burn_your_money
on 01 Jun, 2007 15:15
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What was wrong with it?
Make sure the t-belt isn't loose and slipping on the pulley
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#22
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 01 Jun, 2007 15:37
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So what was wrong with the gauge? Pin too short :?: :roll:
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#23
by
Black Smokin' Diesel
on 01 Jun, 2007 23:17
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So what was wrong with the gauge? Pin too short :?: :roll:
I don't know if they used the exact same gauge but they got the pump timed after the screwdriver trick. They did a "diesel tune" as they call it too. They ran the engine on some sort of cleaning agent, got rid of the crap in the pump and cleaned the injectors. It did a pretty good job at smoothing up the idle. They also did an engine shampoo to see if there were any leaks (all that oil sludge can hide some nasty stuff). Pretty cool to see the engine this clean.
I turned the fuel up a bit so the powerband has some power but not as much as before. It doesn't even smoke at WOT. I'll keep it that way for now until I can buy an EGT gauge or install an intercooler. The K24 whistles a bit more than the tired T3 I had. Kinda nice to hear in the background.
I had forgot how much fun driving my MK2 TD is. My moms Elantra GT was nice and quiet but it's nowhere near the feel and handling of a MK2. Plus the fuel mileage was atrocious, I couldn't even bring myself to calculate how much MPG it did.
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#24
by
Black Smokin' Diesel
on 01 Jun, 2007 23:18
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So you're saying you owe me an injection pump? 
Andrew
Sure which of the two I have do you want? The seized one or the topless one
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#25
by
Black Smokin' Diesel
on 02 Jun, 2007 09:04
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If the seized on had an aneroid top on it, I'd be interested in it as a core. No real use for a topless pump unless it has particularly attractive fuel nipples. :lol:
Andrew
Haha sorry no aneroid top. I can send you a bunch of nipples if you want
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#26
by
glichter1
on 14 Jul, 2007 13:47
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makes sure the dial gauge reads metric mm not inches, i had that problem when i bought a cheap gauge off ebay, then you have to do some math and convert units, just eye ball it lining line on pump up with line on ip bracket the tun it a bit at a time toward motor advances it
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#27
by
Black Smokin' Diesel
on 14 Jul, 2007 14:01
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makes sure the dial gauge reads metric mm not inches, i had that problem when i bought a cheap gauge off ebay, then you have to do some math and convert units, just eye ball it lining line on pump up with line on ip bracket the tun it a bit at a time toward motor advances it
Thanks for the advice but the shop I took the car to finally got it properly time. It's running great too.
