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#30
by
jhax
on 21 Aug, 2014 13:35
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On the way to work my glow plug started switching repeatedly and the light was going all sparatic like. I unplugged the plug, the thermostat was unplugged. I will be buying a new thermostat tomorrow and putting in a new thermoswitch tonight. We will see. Still no fan either.
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#31
by
CRSMP5
on 22 Aug, 2014 06:58
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2 of 3 wires are low speed, 2 of 3 are high speed... Cross at thermo switchand diagnose it
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#32
by
jhax
on 23 Aug, 2014 13:37
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the high tested fine low, not so much. But when I originally jumpered it the low speed came on. I bought a pusher fan yesterday so ill just throw that in.
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#33
by
jhax
on 25 Aug, 2014 16:25
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Strange things ae afoot within my vehicle. I got the fans figured out. I took the big ground wire that goes to the relay socket in the cab out of the socket and grounded it. I put a 4 pin relay in the socket. I now have a low speed fan while the car is on. I drove home from work and made a couple stops. When I parked the car and tried to turn it off the car would still run even though the key was out. I had to stall it off. However, once I got out, I noticed that the high speed rad fan was operating. I stopped one more time and the same thing happened. When I got home (not far enough distance for the after run fan to turn on), I was able to shut the car off via the key.
Also while cruising on the highway, my fan relay (in the cab) will start buzzing as the temp gauge goes up and at the same time my glow plug light will come on.
I just jumpered the socket to find the following....
6 (BRN Gnd) __
2 (BLK to A1/7) --- | 8 (R/WT Lo Speed Fan)
4 (RED) __
When I jumper 4 and 8 the Low Speed fan turns on.
When I jumper 4 and 2 the Battery, GP, E-Brake lights all turned on and the oil light was flashing. The GP relay did click as well.
Turns out Relay #31 is supposed to go there. Now to figure out how to wire them both to one fan.
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#34
by
jhax
on 26 Aug, 2014 18:45
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Well, at this point I doubt anyone is reading this thread anymore but I believe I got it all figured out. The fuse box was not properly grounded. I took off the holder and scraped some paint off and took it for a drive. No flashing lights and when I pulled back into the garage and turned it off, the high speed rad fan kept going for a couple of minutes, mind you I did not have the under dash relay plugged in at all. The real test will be the drive to and from work tomorrow. The temp gauge only got just over half way up and no flashing light.
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#35
by
theman53
on 26 Aug, 2014 20:17
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I hope you got it
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#36
by
ropadopa
on 27 Aug, 2014 06:00
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Im reading along, maybe this will help me sort out my issues in the future. Hope it works out for you
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#37
by
jhax
on 27 Aug, 2014 06:35
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Oh yeah, world of difference. On the drive to work this morning, the highest that gauge got was the temperature that it used to sit at regularly within 5 minutes of driving. Even in traffic. When I pulled into work the high speed fan was on and it shut off about 15 seconds after the car was shut off. This car has been running at a higher temperature (by the gauge) since I bought it so maybe re-grounding the fuse box really helped. For some reason, the old fuse box holder was kept in place by plastic nuts. Now to figure out how to wire the new aftermarket 2 pin fan so I can get high and low speed fans. Is it possible to put both the red/blk and red/wt wires into the power wire of the fan? It would make sense since either one OR the other is working. If the low speed coolant fan is going and the a/c is turned on then the power stops coming from the coolant source and begins flowing from the AC source right?
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#38
by
jhax
on 27 Aug, 2014 16:54
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#39
by
jhax
on 04 Sep, 2014 17:33
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I'm having one final issue. It seems that my right front passenger side turn/parking signal is malfunctioning.
Symptoms:
Only one filament is working, sometimes (filament designated for parking light, taller one).
The filament is working as both parking and turn.
The light flashes rapidly like there is a short.
The filament for the turn signal doesn't work at all.
The bulb only flashes when I push the bulb laterally in the socket.
Troubleshooted:
All wires have been soldered in their correct positions.
When the turn signal is on I get a climbing voltage up to 5.8v on the bulk/gun wire (turn signal) and low voltage on the other wire.
I have tried multiple working bulbs exactly the same model.
Thanks
Here are a couple of videos. Descriptions are under the videos.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/78594984@N08/15142354105/ left bulb turn and parking light on
https://www.flickr.com/photos/78594984@N08/14955954597/in/photostream/ left bulb only turn on
https://www.flickr.com/photos/78594984@N08/14955855550/in/photostream/ right bulb both parking and turn signal switch on
I re-soldered the wires last night to ensure good connection and no changes. I think it may be the socket.
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#40
by
TylerDurden
on 06 Sep, 2014 05:50
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I re-soldered the wires last night to ensure good connection and no changes. I think it may be the socket.
My caddy had that issue, replacing the socket fixed it.
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#41
by
jhax
on 07 Sep, 2014 11:09
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Yeah I agree after doing some more troubleshooting. Thanks.
