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#15 by Gizmoman on 12 Jun, 2014 21:05
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. . . because it is glued in place.
That would be a last ditch effort. I may want to remove the cover to check timing or replace the belt at some point A stock gasket with no sealer would be the goal but not sure if I can get there.
I have cleaned every surface with continuous blasts of brake cleaner - go through a can every time. I also douse the rubber gasket as well to remove even traces of oil from clean hands. The goes on a new pair of surgical gloves before I even pick it up. -
#16 by Toby on 13 Jun, 2014 01:58
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No, getting it not to leak is the goal. Peeling the cover off when it has been RTV-ed is not a big deal. I RTV everything I touch and it is never an issue. It will add a couple of minutes to your dis-assembly. And it won't leak. The factories RTV everything they can instead of using gaskets for a reason.
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#17 by Gizmoman on 13 Jun, 2014 06:52
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No, getting it not to leak is the goal. Peeling the cover off when it has been RTV-ed is not a big deal. I RTV everything I touch and it is never an issue. It will add a couple of minutes to your dis-assembly. And it won't leak. The factories RTV everything they can instead of using gaskets for a reason.
I have read that making the entire gasket from RTV is the trick - tossing the stock gasket out. The idea would be to put a nice bead (slightly thicker than the gasket) on a spotlessly clean valve cover. Then spray the head (I have a spare head on the bench) sealing surfaces with a light coat of oil. Gently position the cover making sure it's centered on the conical rubber washers. Let it sit for 24 hours or more.
Remove the assembly, clean the oil film from the RTV and head, re-install and torque. I would then have a perfectly "matched" gasket.
Thoughts? -
#18 by GEE-BEE on 13 Jun, 2014 08:01
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its a bad cover, not the gasket
I had the same problem on my aaz -
#19 by RabbitJockey on 13 Jun, 2014 08:07
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its a bad cover, not the gasket
I had the same problem on my aaz
this right here -
#20 by libbydiesel on 13 Jun, 2014 08:11
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I have installed several AAZ valve cover gaskets and several AHU gaskets and I don't think I've ever had one leak. I haven't used any significant amount of care either. Certainly never used brake cleaner or made a gasket from RTV. I've just reused the old gasket, did a quick wipe with a relatively clean shop towel on the gasket and the sealing surfaces of head and cover and then placed a dab of rtv on the ends of the small half-moon where it meets the flat part of the gasket and a similar dab on the head in the groove of the #1 bearing cap where it meets the head. Then I've made sure the tabs of the gasket are properly seated in the corners and the half-moon and part over the cam cap are pushed down in place and then I've torqued the cover on. Nothing resembling the great gyrations expressed in this thread has ever been necessary.
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#21 by Gizmoman on 13 Jun, 2014 17:23
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I don't know what to say to all that.
Is there a new AAZ valve cover available somewhere? Buying a used one would be a crap-shoot.
The cover I have looks perfectly fine. As I mentioned, it checks out for flatness along both flat faces and has zero twist as well. The only other thing in the bay up that high would be the cam seal. The engine sits a bit down-hill (lower at the back of the van) and oil is seeping out along the left edge of the head - so I have ruled the cam seal out.
The Hylomar arrived today - possibly that will take care of it.
If someone knows where I can get a new cover, let me know. -
#22 by Gizmoman on 17 Jun, 2014 17:34
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Copied from my post in the SAMBA (I figure it may help someone here)
Post Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 9:18 pm . .
I've been at it nearly all weekend (on and off between other projects).
I really got intimate with the cover after finding none available (if you know of new ones please post a link).
One issue with the rubber gasket - we are really sealing two cracks; one between the cover and the gasket, and another between the gasket and head.
Any-who, I found the left lower corner to be bent slightly upwards. I started by checking the width of the flanges and the front was narrower by 0.01" not much I know, but I am seeking perfection at this point.
I did some tweaking on my steel bench with a dead blow and some spacers and feel it's very flat across all four corners (now it's the same width as well).
EDIT I've decided to let it sit another day. If it's not sealed now, I may go to the guy selling these motors used and see if he has a cover. I sent him an email
With a new gasket placed on the head (I have a spare), I buffed the flange of the cover with a wire wheel till it was a bit grainy and spotless. Next step was to squirt a narrow bead of The Right Stuff on the flange and lay it on the gasket mounted on the head. I laid a few chunks of steel on top - maybe three lbs, and let it sit for six hours.
The gasket is now nearly part of the cover and sits relative to the head. There will be no leaking from that joint.
One down, one left to go.
On the joint between the cover (with gasket firmly sealed to it), I used Hylomar (both surfaces). Let dry for ten minutes and assembled.
Posted: Today 4:23 pm. . .
I did my "take it to work" test run toady to check for valve cover leaking.
It's about 26 miles each way, southern CA freeway (65 is slow), three long grades averaging about 2%.
When I arrived and peered under the back, there was no oil dripping off anything - good sign.
On closer inspection, there is a tiny amount running down the head in the typical place - just a whole lot less. Smile
I'm tempted to quit now but it will be a mess after a few K miles so I'm going after it one more time. My guess is the dabs of HYLOMAR in the corners of the cam cap weren't enough. Once I get it off, it will be clearer.
BTW, I called the local VW dealer and a new AAZ cover is available - about four days (from Texas). The cover is $242.33 + tax.
I think I'll give this one more try possibly tomorrow afternoon.
If my next attempt fails, it's new valve cover time - I despise oil leaks. -
#23 by GEE-BEE on 23 Jun, 2014 06:22
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I purchased a next to new G60 valve cover, while the head is out for polishing and flow work
It will be drilled and tap the the head for the g60 valve cover...
Just another option out there..
GB -
#24 by 92EcoDiesel Jetta on 23 Jun, 2014 07:00
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"Any-who, I found the left lower corner to be bent slightly upwards. "
Nothing a hammer, a block of wood and a straight edge won't fix. -
#25 by Rising on 24 Jun, 2014 07:03
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I'm going through the same shenanigans with my valve cover. Since I've had the car basically. New cork gasket, leaked, new rubber gasket, leaked, replaced studs with Allen bolts for an easier installation to get the cam covers to behave, still leaked. Layer of ultra black permatex between the gasket and head, still leaked, and my last attempt was a layer on the cover side then a layer on the head side, assemble loosely, wait an hour add torque, wait over night add some more torque, wait the full 24 hours and start the car to a worse oil leak
Its the rear passenger side of the head always so I am starting to be suspicious of my valve cover.
Considering giving it one last go by tossing the rubber gasket and just using "the right stuff" on the head and assembling... Not sure if that's reasonable or not, but I'm so tired of this leak.
Might go down to the junkyard and find a cheapo 8v mk3 cover to throw on and see if that helps...
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
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#26 by theman53 on 24 Jun, 2014 07:14
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I never had a valve cover seal until I got a G60 aluminum one. They always leaked. No amount of flat hammering or vice work did the trick. I haven't tried an aaz or ahu cover yet, but I am sure they will be problematic as well.
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#27 by 92EcoDiesel Jetta on 24 Jun, 2014 07:42
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I never had a valve cover seal until I got a G60 aluminum one. They always leaked. No amount of flat hammering or vice work did the trick. I haven't tried an aaz or ahu cover yet, but I am sure they will be problematic as well.
The well rusted valve cover on my 92 Eco always leaked, until I took it out and straightened it with a hammer, block of white oak and a straight edge. Now it does not leak anymore (with the updated one piece gasket). I got a G60 valve cover for $10 at a VW meet but have not installed it yet because there is no pressing need to do so.
I have found the best way to tighten the valve cover nuts is not to use a torque wrench but to tighten them down in stages, by feel. Most important to not over tighten (easy to do) and warp it again. First tighten nuts just beyond finger tight, get the engine nice and hot and look for leaks. If it leaks, tighten nuts equally a little more while it's hot. Repeat above till the leak stops. -
#28 by wolf_walker on 24 Jun, 2014 07:49
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VW sure persisted with those stamped crap valve covers for a long time. I get they were built to a cost point, but there were a lot
of "cheap" motors with nice solid aluminum covers. I re-used an ancient gasket on a 22RE Toyota the other week and it didn't weep a bit.
It's why everyone says use the G60 piece.
Can the G60 piece be drilled to mount with center bolts? -
#29 by theman53 on 24 Jun, 2014 11:04
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I have heard of people doing that with success