Diving in. - page 3 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #30 by ORCoaster on 30 Aug, 2013 08:45
• Nope just combine them into one- a trifueled Rabbit- Depending on how you drive daily you main tank would carry the most often used fuel, a smaller one for WVO and another BioD.  Although I didn't have to heat the BioD until the colder temps set in it ran through the same route as the WVO.  I could have added some other hoses and valves but if you look under the hood of my car you would shake your head and ask where will they go?
• #31 by icyhotpatch on 30 Aug, 2013 10:42
• I might look into it a little more once I am rolling kohle. My question for you is: What do you mean by drive daily? I either drive 28.8 or 42.4 miles round trip 55 mph or less. I was planning on using the b20 because I believe you can fuel and go with it.
• #32 by ORCoaster on 30 Aug, 2013 12:40
• Yes B20 goes in the same tank as designed for regular diesel.  But hoses and inside of the tank might get cleaned out some from the first couple of tanks.  That means fuel filter plugging.  You can install something cheaper before the stock fuel filter.  One of those white sort of see through types and keep a spare in the car along with the needed nut driver or screwdriver for getting the hose clamps off.
  
  By daily drive I meant just what you state.  How far and how fast.  I can't use my WVO system unless I get it out on the highway and since I have a 3 mile drive to and then from work I only run on diesel.  I could do the BioD but the station is 2.5 hours away.  Next time I head that way I think I will fill the secondary tank with it so I can run on it instead of the diesel.  Not a big difference in price between the two anymore as regular diesel is dropping in price. 
  
  So, prepare to clean out filters and replace old hoses if you go the B20 route.  That stuff cleans pretty well.
  
  It is also a bit thicker and my injectors didn't rattle as much using it or the WVO.  Good luck.
• #33 by icyhotpatch on 30 Aug, 2013 15:43
• One of my college instructors works on his family farm and they recently switched to b20 supplied by the company my buddys dad works for(small world huh) and his old tractors from what he said ran bad they changed filters a few times then ran better than the day he bought them.
• #34 by icyhotpatch on 31 Aug, 2013 12:11
• Pick up the rabbit will post pictures later
• #35 by icyhotpatch on 31 Aug, 2013 18:10
• 
• #36 by ORCoaster on 31 Aug, 2013 19:41
• Nice start.  Where did the PO find the door handles? 
  
  I almost thought the block heater plug wire was a bungee cord holding the drivers side bumper up.
  
  Inside OK?  Looks recently painted.  Similar look to the VW I bought 3 yrs ago this month.  Much revision since. 
  
  Keep us posted.
  
   
  
  
• #37 by 8v-of-fury on 31 Aug, 2013 20:31
• niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice
• #38 by icyhotpatch on 01 Sep, 2013 02:36
• No idea where he got the handles but I have the vw ones broken of course. Block heater does kinda look like a bungie cord. inside is perfect. PO did paint it but was originally silver. PO has owned it for 20 years stored inside last 10. The car has 120k. A little rust. I need to replace valve cover gasket but that isnt hard or expensive.  Want to change the oil as well.
   Speaking of valve cover I need to buy one. I know the rubber on from victor heinz is the one I should go for but where should I get it from? Unless you guys have your own suggestions.  
  I didn't realize how vw has not changed their engines over the years.
• #39 by ORCoaster on 01 Sep, 2013 11:18
• I generally start here:  http://www.partsgeek.com/ymm/1981/volkswagen/rabbit.html?sort=pop&scat=engine_mechanical
  
  or here:  for my stuff.  http://stores.ebay.com/Mk1-Autohaus?_nkw=valve+cover
  
  But there are some better but I think for the general stuff I would start at either of these.  Sometimes my local NAPA can get parts for about the same and do not charge the S&H. 
  
  Was it the gasket or the actual metal cover you need.  I was confused.  I bet several of us have a spare cover if you really need one.  Do a  Want to Buy   WTB and see what comes of it.
  
  
• #40 by icyhotpatch on 01 Sep, 2013 16:59
• It keeps not posting things on me. I need the valve cover gasket. I have an extra valve cover. Tomorrow im going to go take some pictures. I just noticed today the front drivers side tire is closer to the fender than passenger side. The passenger side front tire has a small negative camber issue. On thursday or friday I will get it up in the air and look more once I get the valve cover gasket in the mail.
• #41 by 8v-of-fury on 01 Sep, 2013 17:06
• did you oreder it yet?
  
  I'd go for one of the rubber upgrades that includes the studs.
• #42 by icyhotpatch on 01 Sep, 2013 19:07
• Yea thats what I am getting. Cork is a no go. I need to get it off the ground and wheels off. Might do that tomorrow.  What would you people recommend for new struts and springs all around. Im thinking koni str.t and vogtland or h&r if I need em. I want to go max 1.25 inch drop. Again if i need to. I dont want to go stock and end up spending more because I replaced them one at a time.
• #43 by icyhotpatch on 01 Sep, 2013 19:09
• They have a kyb gr2 and vogtland set on ebay. New its sub 300 not including shipping. Says 1.2 inch drop what do you guys think. I need to take pictures and start a build thread.
• #44 by 8v-of-fury on 01 Sep, 2013 19:32
• I recommend quality springs whatever you choose.. a cheap spring will have a horrible spring rate and wreck your struts and give a siht ride.
  
  I got two sets of H&R through Eurosport a few weeks back on sale.. check it out.
  
  The GR-2 is a fair strut.. I like them. My brother has them on the rear of his mk1 with the bilstein HD's up front and H&R sports.. ITS ON RAILS!