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#60
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 07 Feb, 2013 09:35
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main girdles have been made in the past i think there is a card drawing floating around on the forum.
If anyone could provide me with the drawing I can send it over to my buddy. And get a price.
main girdles have been made in the past i think there is a card drawing floating around on the forum.
If anyone could provide me with the drawing I can send it over to my buddy. And get a price.
like i said, the issues are with keeping the HEAD on the block, not keeping the crank in the block..
this is going to do nothing in regards to how much boost/drive pressure the engine can actually handle..
a block girdle is not necessary until you have a reason for it. like i said, the head is going to let go LONG before the bottom end will flex enough to warrant a block girdle..
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#61
by
EcoTX
on 07 Feb, 2013 09:43
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Do you guys think a girdle could be made? I have a buddy that is a welder/machinist at NASA that could prolly make them for cheap.
I would buy two or three if they were made available reasonably and domestically.
The only one I've found on here was made by "Aki-76" in the "Jetta Project 200" thread here...
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=17081.0Get lost in that one for a few hours...or days.
It is very good, all the pics still work!
Not sure if the actual specific CAD or any drawings are in there, but I remember a lot of talk about that main girdle in that thread.
Give it a read, it is very cool stuff.
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#62
by
Jagerauto
on 07 Feb, 2013 09:55
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main girdles have been made in the past i think there is a card drawing floating around on the forum.
If anyone could provide me with the drawing I can send it over to my buddy. And get a price.
main girdles have been made in the past i think there is a card drawing floating around on the forum.
If anyone could provide me with the drawing I can send it over to my buddy. And get a price.
like i said, the issues are with keeping the HEAD on the block, not keeping the crank in the block..
this is going to do nothing in regards to how much boost/drive pressure the engine can actually handle..
a block girdle is not necessary until you have a reason for it. like i said, the head is going to let go LONG before the bottom end will flex enough to warrant a block girdle..
I realize that.. I have arp head studs bought from Kerma tdi.
I just want to get prices on everything so I can start saving. I plan on going down the road where a girdle is needed apparently.
I'm sure I can have them made very cheaply. And top notch quality probably better than others.
He made my extenders and stands by them in them being better heat treated than others. He sells them for $175. He makes tons of stuff for the fun of it and his profits are minimum.
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#63
by
justiz00
on 07 Feb, 2013 10:10
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Pm me your email for the CAD drawing of the main girdle. It is from the guy who was selling them here a few years ago. It is 6mm and I also have the drawing for the main cap spacers (10). The ARP part number for the main studs with 6mm (1/4") girdle is 209-5401.
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#64
by
theman53
on 07 Feb, 2013 16:23
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Yeah, IIRC it was truckinwagen that made them before. Search the forum and especially the FS section as he was selling them there. He had them waterjet or laser cut.
As ROR states, the head is the weakest link of this engine. I don't even think Andy 2 had bottom end support when he put 6 head bolt holes extra in the stock aluminum head...and still blew it off.
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#65
by
Jagerauto
on 07 Feb, 2013 16:24
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So my buddy says these people plasma cutting sheet steel without grounding them flat are stupid. Sheet steel is not completely flat, and oil leaks are guaranteed.
Any ideas?
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#66
by
RabbitJockey
on 07 Feb, 2013 16:26
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I have seen a few tdi and aaz throw rods stock
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#67
by
theman53
on 07 Feb, 2013 16:33
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Cold rolled is supposed to be accurate to .005" there shouldn't be oil leaks unless they get it too hot plasma cutting. Hot rolled is way worse, but still with gaskets above and below all would be well for oil leaks.
Water jet would be best.
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#68
by
Jagerauto
on 07 Feb, 2013 16:44
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"Not even close, cold rolled still has a .010 variance or so, hot rolled like .050"
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#69
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Feb, 2013 16:55
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For example...
1.6TD pump: 0 460 494 182 = 9mm plunger
1.6ECO pump: 0 460 484 ### = 8mm plunger
They used a 0 for 10mm plunger, not sure about sizes larger than that. 1 = 11, 2 = 12, etc perhaps ?
0 460 414 099 is my 11mm rover number
My 11mm Rover pump is this number, 0 460 4
14 069.
Think it is safe to say that 1 is for 11mm
.
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#70
by
Jagerauto
on 07 Feb, 2013 17:01
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My buddy is looking into chro-Molly and having the sheet ground before cutting. Making a perfectly flat no leaky girdle. I will have a solid quote on a minimum of 10 tomorrow if anyone is interested.
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#71
by
theman53
on 07 Feb, 2013 18:14
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"Not even close, cold rolled still has a .010 variance or so, hot rolled like .050"
My dude was off then, even so if the hot rolled is .050. I would trust that with any gasket type there is.
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#72
by
Jagerauto
on 07 Feb, 2013 18:18
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"Not even close, cold rolled still has a .010 variance or so, hot rolled like .050"
My dude was off then, even so if the hot rolled is .050. I would trust that with any gasket type there is.
Still how about one that is perfect? I'm willing to bet that all the $400-$800 ones are.. And that's why..
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#73
by
theman53
on 07 Feb, 2013 18:36
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As soon as you deck the bottom of your block to get it within .010" then sure. IMHO it is pointless to have a block that is no where near that perfect seal and have a plate that is aerospace approved so it will seal against it. I messed up and welded my drain into the pan REAL hot. Warped it about an 1/16 to 1/8" in a 1" span and it sealed fine. Remember that whenever you bolt it down it will warp to the block a bit. Just like our engines should have the mains bolted in when bored because the block will distort ever so slightly, this will do the same.
I am not trying to discourage you. At the end of the day, adding to the extra cost to a girdle for a 20+ year old engine in an economy car to make HP... I am all for HP and modding these, but my reality is cold rolled would be fine.
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#74
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 07 Feb, 2013 18:44
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AAZ's did not come with 11mm, they came with 9mm like 1.5 and 1.6's.
11mm was Rover pumps, peugeot pumps, and ALH auto trans pumps.
I am unaware of ANY AAZ with an 11mm pump from stock.
North American Peugeot pumps never came with an 11 mm pump to the best of my knowledge. They came with 9 or 10 mm. I happen to have one of each.