So I'm building this AAZ.. Need some direction.. - page 2 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #15 by Jagerauto on 04 Feb, 2013 23:07
• Btw there is a rabbit for sale locally with an AAZ in it for $2500. Need work. Low. Head gasket I beleive..
  
  I know another guy with one in a caddy locally too. Never seen it just talked with him about it.
• #16 by CrazyAndy on 05 Feb, 2013 00:03
•   Sounds like you've got most of the bases covered then.  I will say, though, you should definitely go to a flanged flex-piped downpipe when you upgrade your turbo system.  Leaps and bounds better than the stock-style dual-clip toilet bowl.  And search out a good stage 1+ clutch setup, something that can take 350+ ft-lbs and still have good street feel.  I'm going with an OEM Sachs VR6 clutch, which can take about 300 ft-lbs, but my power goals aren't as crazy as yours.  What's your trans code?
  
    As far as transmission linkages go, you can use the cable box and just route the cables though the firewall hole for the auto trans cable.  There is an alternative, however.  Claus Von Essen (http://www.clausvonessen.de/pi38/pd648.html) sells a rod adaptation kit for 02A/02J trans swaps into a Mk1.  A little coin as well a an overseas shipping wait, but you don't have to fab up a custom center console to hide the shifter box, or drill holes in the exhaust tunnel and fight exhaust piping to mount the box from below.  User Alleslowbuged uses the same setup in his Rabbit project.  I chose this because I like my interior though, so YMMV.  As far as mounts, JustCaddys(http://www.justcaddys.com/02a-and-02j-gearbox-mounts.html) in Britain and Nothing Leaves Stock (http://forums.speedarena.com/showthread.php?5211552-***NLS-02j-02a-trans-and-1.8T-fsi-tdi-mk1-conversion-mounts!***) here in the US of A both do fabbed 02A mount swaps.  A corrado cable will work with the speedometer, though mating with a diesel cluster might be a little tricky as diesel speedo cables are screw in.  You can use a 1993 eurovan cable clutch actuator, and either a true 02A eurovan or Honda CRX clutch cable (CRX is long and needs to be loped, though).  Add 16v rocco or post '86 cabriolet axles and you're good to go.
  
    The AAZ will be a nice addition to a Caddy.  You'll be able to haul and tow like you always wanted to!  Look up user StewartDC, who did a tuned AAZ in his.
  
    Cool to hear there are other cars in the area; I'd stick to one project at a time though.  Multiple projects are a sure fire way to spread your time and money waaay too thin.
  
  Lastly, will you be going to MK1 Madness this year?  Great place to meet some other forum members, talk shop, compare cars, and have a plain old good time.  2nd week of July IIRC.
  
  EDIT:  I forgot to mention to not forget a pre-tubo Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor.
• #17 by Jagerauto on 05 Feb, 2013 00:10
• I'm using the 02j shift box. Code acn? I think..
   
  I was already using a flanged DP. But I need to lengthen it a tad for the new 1.9. I plan on a flex section on the vertical section so if I hit it on the ground I won't crack it again.
  
  I know I know.. Crazy low is stupid. But I live the way my rabbit sat, and will suffer the consequences.
• #18 by CrazyAndy on 05 Feb, 2013 01:07
• Yes, the AAZ block assembly is about 3/4" taller, so adding the flex in the vertical section helps. 
  
  ACN is an 020 code; a good trans, but would get shattered behind the torque monster you want to build.
  
  And I have to agree with you on stupid low.  They just look too good, and I'd do that low myself if the roads here weren't crap.  Gonna at least get a nice 60/40 or 60/60 spring set w/ some kick-ass classics, flares, tan & wood grain; go '80s-tastic you know?
  
  Is your 'tex screen name the same?
• #19 by Jagerauto on 05 Feb, 2013 07:16
• Quote from: CrazyAndy on 05 Feb, 2013 01:07

  Yes, the AAZ block assembly is about 3/4" taller, so adding the flex in the vertical section helps. 
  
  ACN is an 020 code; a good trans, but would get shattered behind the torque monster you want to build.
  
  And I have to agree with you on stupid low.  They just look too good, and I'd do that low myself if the roads here weren't crap.  Gonna at least get a nice 60/40 or 60/60 spring set w/ some kick-ass classics, flares, tan & wood grain; go '80s-tastic you know?
  
  Is your 'tex screen name the same?
  

  
  Name is the same. I have an 02j just need messing with too many codes I can't remember one from another.
• #20 by Jagerauto on 05 Feb, 2013 08:25
• So yes or no to franks stage 2 cam.. Worth the extra $170?!? Need to know ASAP! Need to send him money
• #21 by CrazyAndy on 05 Feb, 2013 11:40
• Does he do like Dr. Diesel and just do a base circle grind?  If yes that I'd go for it, since Dr. Diesel cams are really nice.  $170 does sound like good price for a cam upgrade.
  
  EDIT:  I think frank uses Colt cams, and if so then yes I would do a Colt cam!
• #22 by Jagerauto on 05 Feb, 2013 12:18
• Quote from: CrazyAndy on 05 Feb, 2013 11:40

  Does he do like Dr. Diesel and just do a base circle grind?  If yes that I'd go for it, since Dr. Diesel cams are really nice.  $170 does sound like good price for a cam upgrade.
  
  EDIT:  I think frank uses Colt cams, and if so then yes I would do a Colt cam!
  

  
  I splurged.. I don't believe he uses colt cams. My buddy had the experience of the difference between one and another and said franks was way better.
  
  Frank says the stage two has .020 more lift than stock alh. And .025ish over the stock AAZ. So If anyone is wondering an alh cam is an upgrade to their stock AAZ/1.6 motors.
  
  
  
• #23 by CrazyAndy on 05 Feb, 2013 18:16
• Cool, good to know on the cam specs, although 0.5 dosen't sound like much.  Still, it is more.
  
  Dang, you went all out on that head.  Still it'll be the best, quietest-operating head you've ever had.  That's what the ALH guys say about his heads.
• #24 by Jagerauto on 05 Feb, 2013 19:08
• Can't wait! I opted for Basic machining and then the two lifter bores had to be fixed an both valves replaced.
  
  Bah I can't wait to put some gold paint on that thing! Don't worry the only gold will the the block/head/trans. Much more would be over kill.
• #25 by Jagerauto on 05 Feb, 2013 19:09
• Andy have you looked at my post on in the users rides section?
• #26 by CrazyAndy on 05 Feb, 2013 20:21
• Quote from: Jagerauto on 05 Feb, 2013 19:09

  Andy have you looked at my post on in the users rides section?
  

  
  Yup, seen the original car.  Red/tan kind of a funny combo for me (too LOUD), but she looks GOOD on the outside; love those polished W123 wheels.  I own a mojave beige 4-door myself, so it's reminiscent of home, and a good indicator how my car will look if lowered also.  Noticed you are running top hats that use the MK4 strut bushing.  Did you get them from Old Skool Vulcan Werks?
  
  Good job on tackling all the rust repair in the wings.  You'll be keeping that car on the road for a few decades more, hopefully.  Do you plan on painting the car another color?
  
  As far as painting the block and trans go, I'd suggest you paint the block, trans, valve cover, and pump head.  Leave the other surfaces bare aluminim along with the starter, accessory bracket, and oil filter boss.  The shine of the aluminum will be a good silver-ish accent to all that gold.  Keep hardware natural, too.  Also, consider leaving the 02J side plate and timing belt cover either black or clearcoated bare metal for a nice shine trifecta, if you will.  And if you keep the paint silver . . . well . . . keeps the theme going!  
  
  It's just my opinion, you know, no need to take it too seriously.  Either way, grade A choice for upper end, mate!  Might have to con you into coming up here when it's done just to see it.
  
• #27 by Jagerauto on 05 Feb, 2013 20:28
• Plan to paint the truck a deep maroon. Gold motor with maroon accents should be nice. And some black.. If anything else chrome stuff.
• #28 by Jagerauto on 05 Feb, 2013 23:15
• Gotta ask. How do I go about turning the boost up? Just enough to get away with no intercooler.
  
  I'm already looking into turbo options. I need to sell some parts and make some money to get it all at once. I like doing things in bursts, or else it will collect dust.. :/,
• #29 by CrazyAndy on 06 Feb, 2013 07:15
• No more than 11-12 psi w/ no intercooler on the stock AAZ turbo, since that's about 75% of the turbo's safe output.  Your EGTs will soar if you go any higher.
  
  And as far as turbos, if you'd like to just go about 140-155 HP right now, then get either a stock W K24 or T3 w/ the 1.6 turbo manifold and turn up the boost on them.  That will still be safe on a stock rebuilt bottom end w/ at least head studs (mains recommended), and a good ebay intercooler will work fine with that setup with corresponding exhaust upgrades (which you already have in your 2.5" system).  With 8v doing your pump, and maybe a PD mani, this will even out to good daily power with your head and cam work.
  
  But if you really want to go as big as the 200+HP you want, right now, then get the Holsett He221w Trev0rbr mentioned.  But your bottom end will need to be FAR from stock; girdle, main and head studs, coated pistons, Rosten rods.  The rest?  Custom optimized intercooler preferably AWIC, optimized intake manifold, Giles pump, remote oil cooler, all that stuff.  I won't mention ported head and big cam since you already bought them.  4 grand of stuff at least, not even getting into the driveline.  This is a go-big-or-go-home level of insanity. 
  
  I like insanity.