Dub Nasty- The rebirth of the dirty diesel - page 9 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #120 by Rising on 18 Sep, 2013 14:08
• Quote from: flowmastergfunk on 12 Sep, 2013 14:27

  Correction...I certainly did not RUN my car at 1.4mm! after I took OFF the belt, put it back on and rechecked the timing, that is where it landed. I don't think I adjusted the clack properly last time, and I believe the pump was one tooth off....so I adjusted the timing for BEING one tooth off. Plain and simple, my all around engine timing was set incorrectly.
  
  Ahhhh yes. I actually have two lengths for my dial indicator adapters. One makes the gauge land right underneath the upper radiator hose, the other is so long that it interferes with the vacuum pump hahaha.
  
  My radiator is a stock unit for a mk2 diesel WITH A/C. The Flex-a-lite fan is just shy of $300 bucks on Jegs....which is crazy expensive. I bought it when I was ballin, and it certainly a fine unit. I am happy to have it, but I wouldn't buy another one unless it was used The fan I used to mod the stock housing was a universal 10" slim fan off ebay. It says it draws less than 7 amps and is rated at 1570 cfm. It blows the stock fan out of the water, no pun intended. They are only about $25 shipped for the fan, but certainly requires lots of trimming and elbow grease. I will be selling the one I already made it you are into baby blue, hot pink sprinkles and silver glitter
  
  Thanks for the compliment too! I hope to have some exciting updates soon! I have been doing some parts gathering...got my oil cooler sandwich all cleaned up and got the threaded piece ouf of the volvo flange! I manage to find some cabby gauges and got my 42 draft designs plate to mount them in the stock radio slot. I figured I would splurge on something of good quality and not try to rig something out of thin ABS.
  
  I mounted my momo steering wheel today which just feels infinitely better to me! Love it!
  

  
  Good to hear the timing question was a misunderstanding
  
  I like where this car is headed. Alot of similar mods to where I'm wanting to go with mine. Also comtemplating mk3 rear drums/rear beam. Doesn't the rear beam widen the rear track by like an 1" or something?
  
  Does the ebay fan actually blow harder than the stocky? Did you compare them or just compare stats? Did you spend any time running that fan set up at all? And did you notice any change with the upgraded radiator or do you think stock size would work? They are basically the same price. But I guess you have to do all new radiator hoses (mine needs this anyway.) Just wondering if it is worth the effort. Did you have any overheating before?
  
  this is a n/a beast right? Any plans to go turbo?
  
  
  
• #121 by CrazyAndy on 18 Sep, 2013 19:05
•   Yes, the MK3 beam kicks the track out by an inch to 1.5 IIRC.  I'd recommend just buying full Caddy drum setup, as it is about the same thing;  I believe you can still use your factory MC as the rear Caddy slave cylinders still have the same ID as the 180mm jawns.  And I would also like to hear performance comparison of the read fans; I might upgrade mine as well, as the big stock fan motor might get in the way of what I'm trying to do with my AWIC core.
    This thing is coming a long NICE.  Great to see all the plans are coming together, and the engine starting to break in really nicely.  Keep it up!
• #122 by flowmastergfunk on 19 Sep, 2013 09:25
• I did read the mk3 beam is wider, which I can tolerate, but then I also heard that it makes the wheels sit further back as well. The differences between the proportioning valves seem like they would make the swap a PITA too. They are stiffer though, as they appear to have extra reinforcement gussets on the outside edges...that is kinda cool I have ultimately decided against the rear beam swap and I am planning on just the drums. Good info on the caddy drum parts Andy! Thank you
  
  I do not plan on this engine ever seeing a turbo. The car? Maybe Abusive break in aside, I built this engine for longevity. As much as I crave boost, that will be a different chapter. The 2.0 in my rabbit does have piston squirters and forged internals...so I may end up boosting that before I ever get to boost a diesel. I will just be waiting to stumble upon a good deal locally on a 1.9, and then it will all be over TDI's in the junkyard are the rarest of the rare...so I just want this motor to last long enough for one to get found and built on a stand.
  
  And I have faith that this motor will survive:) Probably with lots of life leftover! N/A or not, this thing would be a sweet drop in upgrade over an old 1.5
  If I ever upgrade to a 1.9td, someone will be happy!
  
  As far as I can tell, the slim fan is a definite upgrade. Then again, the fan that I was running had one speed burnt out. Not sure which one it was though! Being much quieter and less invasive is a huge plus from the get go. I am guessing doesn't take nearly as much current to get it going as well. Maybe it is a moot point for me since I am running the flexalite fan now, but I may just use my power probe and set up both fan styles to make a video This isn't just "The Greg Show"! I do post all of my trials, errors, successes and findings for the entire community to learn, not just to show off my pride and joy
  
  I didn't have problems with over heating, but it was definitely warmer than I was comfortable with. I know changing my upper hose configuration made a big difference, for the better. I would think blocking flow out the side of the head didn't help to expel heat much, but I feel it was worth while to bypass several extra hoses and potential for failure/leaks. All in all, the temperature is a reflection of my car saying "Dude, get over it and back off the F@#$%&* FUELING!"
  
  I have still had some high EGT's on hot days and rising engine temps when going up a grade for a long time. I am sure the extra weight of the tent didn't help, per se, but that is part of the whole testing procedure. I finally got finished working on my diesel intake so I could throw it back on and adjust the fueling accordingly. After all was said and done, I ended up turning the turning the max fuel down, but I still put a cooler thermostat in it for good measure.
  So I ported out my intake runners a little more now that I have some long shank burrs, and I ended up cutting out some of the metal between the runners.
  
  Why? I REALLY don't like trying to get these intakes on or off when the engine is in the car! This makes it easier to guide an allan socket or bolt in. This intake is much much louder than the gasser setup...which seems like a direct translation to the engine getting more air. No hot air intake comments. Please.
  
  I was going to try to hold off on putting it on because I was going to have a friend make a phenolic spacer, but it didn't happen. I am sure phenolic spacers are another one of those hat trick gimicks that grant you an extra ant fart's worth of power, at best, but the biggest reason I wanted it is because I can't unclip the airbox cover with the fancy valve cover! The bottom clips hit the cover and can't be undone! You have to either take off the valve cover or the airbox as a whole. Kinda crappy :/
  In reading about different manifolds, I did find it fascinating that longer runners apparently add to low end torque. A phenolic spacer would count as making the runners a little longer, right?:laugh: It would also get the manifold to sit further back and closer to the hood vent. There is significant room to move back without hitting the firewall.
  
  I got my filter flange ready to go with the cooler setup. I just need to settle on what type of cooler I am actually going to run and get the fittings and hoses accordingly. I guess I am going to start by eyeballing junkyard cars. I didn't grab the volvo one because I figured I could find one more appropriate for my application.
  
  
  
  Started putting some extra elbow grease into cleaning it up too. Got busy with a heat gun to finally get the vinyl strips off the doors, between the side windows. I got to brainstorming and started trying to see if I could get the rubber off the window trim. I figured metal trim would accent well and match the door handle trim, so I went for it.
  Before:
  
  
  and after a little cleaning and semi-gloss rattle can action:
  
  
  I wanted to do the car satin black with gloss black trim, but I decided to work with what I got, as a test. Now if I can clean up the other 3 windows and rattle can the rest of the car, it won't look half bad
  
  
• #123 by audilvr on 19 Sep, 2013 14:07
• G]http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0123_zpsee59561f.jpg[/img][/URL]
  In case you are wondering, it is a pop up tent, and it is awesome!
  [/quote]
  
  
  you can't just leave it like that....need pic's of the tent set up!
• #124 by flowmastergfunk on 19 Sep, 2013 14:38
• haha I was going to take another pic when I actually had it out camping. Here is a pick from when I tossed it on my rabbit. Much more fitting on the jetta, if you ask me
  
  It has a zippered canvas door and a zippered screen door on each side, It has a legit matress pad in it, a full set of bedding, the little ladder collapses so you can fit it up there...it's pretty insane hahaha
• #125 by Blocksmith on 19 Sep, 2013 17:08
• Quote from: flowmastergfunk on 19 Sep, 2013 09:25

  I do not plan on this engine ever seeing a turbo. The car? Maybe Abusive break in aside, I built this engine for longevity. As much as I crave boost, that will be a different chapter. The 2.0 in my rabbit does have piston squirters and forged internals...so I may end up boosting that before I ever get to boost a diesel. I will just be waiting to stumble upon a good deal locally on a 1.9, and then it will all be over TDI's in the junkyard are the rarest of the rare...so I just want this motor to last long enough for one to get found and built on a stand.
  

  
  Bah, put a turbo on it already    Especially if you keep the boost at stock levels, you won't wear anything out soon enough to justify not putting it on; and with the number of TDIs I saw up at Tahoe this summer, it won't be too long before TDIs are a dime a dozen in your neck of the woods.
• #126 by flowmastergfunk on 22 Sep, 2013 10:21
• haaha if someone donates a full turbo setup, I will run it. I am actually very impressed with how well this car is running without one! At this point, it's running so good that I wouldn't want to molest it. I will eventually start saving up so all my money goes into a proper turbo rig
  
   It is amazing how too much fuel can make your car run WORSE! I certainly found the sweet spot. Some backroad hills where I was bogging out in 4th, downshifting into third, and still having trouble balancing between obscene EGT's and keeping momentum...now, I can hit them in 4th all the way up with happy EGT's. I feel like this car has sooooo much power for an N/A. I went to go help my buddy with his 84 rabbit diesel this weekend, and he was blown away when I drove him to go get parts. My tuna boat is way faster than his tiny little bunny!
  
  I have noticed my car gradually getting louder since swapping the intake back on...it finally got to the point where I was starting to register it in my mind as an exhaust leak...I did not expect to see this...
  
  
  Baffling. I know there were some little dents in it when my ex did her little "off-roading adventure", but I guess somewhere between the previous high EGT's, mixed with the overwhelming flow of my fancy intake;) it decided to give up the ghost! I am going to drop it off at my buddies shop come monday or tuesday.
  
  I am pretty sure I had a super turbo muffler on it. I always thought it sounded pretty good, but it was still fairly loud. Sometimes when I had ladies in the car, I wished I had at least gotten a resonator installed. I know some back pressure is good to have, but maybe this is my car telling me that it wants more flow? The bigger the opening has gotten, the more power it feels like it is putting out hahaha. I never really looked into different muffler options for these cars. I usually put all my trust in my friends work. "give me x-sized pipe, and whatever you think would sound good". Granted, the system has been on there since I first for the car...really before any significant tuning or mods. Ever since I still had the toilet bowl manifold! I had him modify it once for the headers, and then he modified it again for the ABA downpipe. Now that it is putting out more power, there must be a better option. I am tempted to get a straight through muffler...but I am sure it's going to be crazy loud! I don't know if it can get much louder than it is right now though hahaha.
  
  After this get's done, I am hoping to get a little dyno time in the next couple of weeks! There is a local place that will do 4 pulls for $60, but it says prices for diesels are different...and those prices aren't listed. Maybe that means they are cheaper? Maybe they charge more to hook up extra fans to push out all the black smoke? hahaha we will see!
• #127 by 8v-of-fury on 22 Sep, 2013 18:01
• I loved my 1.6NA with just a 2.25" cherry bomb.. It sounded beast. It also sounds just as beast on my AHU M-TDI right now too
• #128 by flowmastergfunk on 23 Sep, 2013 07:40
• I did look at the dynomax site and it looks like they offer a lifetime warranty...so I might be able to score a freebie on this one. I may just end up going with the ultraflow straight through as opposed to the cherry bomb. I would be all about the cherry bomb if I was at least running a snail! That would be sweet Gonna call in and see when I can get the car snuck in. It is nice that my muffler shop is only a few blocks away from the homestead
• #129 by flowmastergfunk on 23 Sep, 2013 11:09
• I just ended up going with a magnaflow. It actually sounds pretty good thus far! (for the two blocks that I got to drive it)
  
  I am about to take a bit of a freeway trip to get rid of a trunk load of scrap metal, so we will see how it performs and sounds. It is certainly quieter than a giant hole in the bottom of the muffler!!!
  
  They put a different tip on it for me too, so it will spew its soot downward. I hated the look of that old tip since day one, but I just went with it.
  
• #130 by 8v-of-fury on 23 Sep, 2013 15:08
• LOOKS SWEET!!
• #131 by flowmastergfunk on 29 Sep, 2013 14:39
• I hate VW instrument clusters
  
  I finally ordered a Canadian cluster with a tach, got it hooked up, and everything was working BUT the tach. I did some testing, but I am so frustrated and tired, I don't even know what I am looking for any more. Tried to take some pictures and my batteries died.
  
  I did test for continuity, but I need to figure out how to properly test the "W" output. I am just not supposed to have a tach
• #132 by flowmastergfunk on 29 Sep, 2013 15:25
• This is how my alternator is hooked up. With a logic probe, it says the blue wire is + and the W wire is grounded. Haven't gotten to check for a pulse or anything with a multimeter.
  
  Here is my new cluster (not sure whether to be happy or mad)
  
  
  
  Continuity wise, it looks like all three wires to the tach were getting a signal right up to the connector. So I am thinking it's not getting the "correct" signal, or there is something wrong with the tach itself.
  
  I thought we payed big money for tach clusters so that things were plug and play, and we don't have to D**k around like this
• #133 by Gizmoman on 29 Sep, 2013 16:31
• I'm not familiar with that cluster but the one on my vanagon is the same concept with the blue flimsy traces. I had to test the traces, find the "bad" sections and jumper them with tiny wire (like from a CAT 5 cable) to get my dash lights working. Takes a lot of patience and some quick soldering. A magnifying glass helps a lot as well. Not sure if that's your problem but thought it may be a place to look for issues.
  
• #134 by flowmastergfunk on 30 Sep, 2013 06:28
• That, Gizmo, is EXACTLY why I jump to the usage of the word "hate" for this cluster haha. It is actually in pretty good shape. All the traces APPEAR for be good. I have had several clusters over the years that have needed repair, and it is always maddening. It is because of these ribbon boards that I am AFRAID to work on these! I don't want to take it apart to fix something, and only end up breaking it more! I just have to work on my finesse and being even more gentle
  
  The good news, the tach worked for a while yesterday! I reinstalled the cluster just to have my other gauges for the evening. It seems like the first time I revved it up past 3k, it kicked on! Later, I started the car again...no tach. Revved it up...it worked. This morning, however, there was no such luck. I got some good revving in once the motor was warm, but no tach.
  
  The gentleman that sold it to me was nice enough to forward a bit of a testing procedure, but I am going to fiddle with it again. It seems to me that my new alternator has a weak "W" signal, or the tach is just "sticky". I had a feeling that the problem may lie in the connector at the back of the tach.
  
  Even if it was for a little bit, it felt SO good to see how many RPM's I was hitting in this car hahaha. Something so small, but sooo good!